2024 Tundra engine OCI plan

I hate the idea of being forced to use the dealer to change oil for fear of being denied warranty coverage. I'd keep detailed records, save invoices for oil and filter purchases, and document my oil changes, then skip the dealership altogether. I did just that with both my Jeeps, one of which had two years of free oil changes and a lifetime of free NYS inspections. I told the dealer my plans and both Jeeps are still alive and well long after the warranty ran out on them. Having said that do what makes you sleep best.
There's something of a cognitive dissonance going on with those who say they want what's best for their vehicle on the one hand while also behaving as if their warranty is some major precious. Isn't it obvious that you cannot have it both ways? Isn't it obvious that, to the extent the warranty is felt to require the use of a product you feel to be inferior, that you cannot surrender your judgment to the liability-avoidance document written by lawyers (i.e. the owner's manual) AND have peace that are doing the very best you can for your engine?

At some point you have to pick what kind of owner you will be.
This is not the case with my Pilot with the J35Y8 engine. First OCI was just under 500 miles, and second was about 4k OCI. Tons of contaminants in the first OCI, but still elevated on the next 4k. Admittedly, the wear/1000 miles is but a fraction of the first OCI.

God willing and the creeks don't rise, I'll be changing the oil this weekend at close to 6k OCI on the latest run (most on a long trip my wife took. OLM at 50%), 10k total engine miles, and will be sending in a sample for UOA.

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Your reply doesn't really refute my claim because your second OCI is what most would do as a first OCI-- right around 5k miles.

And, as you can see-- wear metals are already dropped by 90% per 1k miles in less than 5k total miles.

Seems to align just about perfectly with my post.
 
Your reply doesn't really refute my claim because your second OCI is what most would do as a first OCI-- right around 5k miles.

And, as you can see-- wear metals are already dropped by 90% per 1k miles in less than 5k total miles.

Seems to align just about perfectly with my post.
Exactly why I added the "admittedly" clause. :whistle:

Personally, I don't want to continue seeing anything elevated. Realizing the worst of the worst was behind me (or the engine), I let the OCI go 6k this time around. I expect the wear metals to continue dropping per 1k miles, or certainly hope so. We'll soon find out.
 
There's something of a cognitive dissonance going on with those who say they want what's best for their vehicle on the one hand while also behaving as if their warranty is some major precious. Isn't it obvious that you cannot have it both ways? Isn't it obvious that, to the extent the warranty is felt to require the use of a product you feel to be inferior, that you cannot surrender your judgment to the liability-avoidance document written by lawyers (i.e. the owner's manual) AND have peace that are doing the very best you can for your engine?

At some point you have to pick what kind of owner you will be.

Your reply doesn't really refute my claim because your second OCI is what most would do as a first OCI-- right around 5k miles.

And, as you can see-- wear metals are already dropped by 90% per 1k miles in less than 5k total miles.

Seems to align just about perfectly with my post.
True. In my case I decided what kind of owner I wanted to be. I want to be an owner who takes care of his own vehicle, and not wanting the hassle of the up-selling of services shortly after the honeymoon was over with the dealer. I mean the whole point of free oil changes, or deep discounts is to get you into the shop. I had no issues with a recall, or warranty work from doing my own service. Everything I did was well documented in the rare event of a major engine issue related to me doing an oil change. Truth be told I had/have more important things to concern myself with.
 
Glenda said:
Yes you’re nuts. You must use AMSOIL Signature Series 5w30.
It’ll be SS 0W20.

With the low oil pressure related flow insufficiency on the #1 main bearing, and subsequent failures these engines experience, I'd also choose a high end 5W-30. This is not the first design to suffer problems with low viscosity and lack of flow to distant locations. The real question is whether a switch to a more normal viscosity fixes the problem.

The answer to the question is traditionally a resounding yes. When one uses a normal viscosity oil from new, oil related failures are far less common.
 
I hate the idea of being forced to use the dealer to change oil for fear of being denied warranty coverage. I'd keep detailed records, save invoices for oil and filter purchases, and document my oil changes, then skip the dealership altogether. I did just that with both my Jeeps, one of which had two years of free oil changes and a lifetime of free NYS inspections. I told the dealer my plans and both Jeeps are still alive and well long after the warranty ran out on them. Having said that do what makes you sleep best.
What I was thinking...
 
For those advocating taking the Amsoil to the dealer, what are the odds it doesn't end up in the Tundra? I guess if you plan to use the dealer for eight 10k OCs you trust them. Bulk oil - Amsoil - bulk oil - Amsoil X 8 seems less than ideal.
 
For those advocating taking the Amsoil to the dealer, what are the odds it doesn't end up in the Tundra? I guess if you plan to use the dealer for eight 10k OCs you trust them. Bulk oil - Amsoil - bulk oil - Amsoil X 8 seems less than ideal.
Exactly!! Unless you're standing next to the guy adding the oil to the vehicle, odds are bulk oil is going in and he's going home with some Amsoil!
 
This morning I pulled out the dealer bulk oil they used with my extractor for the first time. Awesome unit. Filled it Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I’ve got enough EP for another change in 5K with the filter change. After that I’ll switch over to Amsoil.
 
For those advocating taking the Amsoil to the dealer, what are the odds it doesn't end up in the Tundra? I guess if you plan to use the dealer for eight 10k OCs you trust them. Bulk oil - Amsoil - bulk oil - Amsoil X 8 seems less than ideal.
I did that back when I had my 2002 Tacoma. At that time I used Redline. I requested the empty bottles back, lol.
 
I have been changing my own oil and filter in my 2024 Subaru using a oil extractor (, PUP oil), dealer said it may void my warranty if I don't use their oil (0w16), well guess what I told them? just keeping my receipts on oil and filters.
 
I have been changing my own oil and filter in my 2024 Subaru using a oil extractor (, PUP oil), dealer said it may void my warranty if I don't use their oil (0w16), well guess what I told them? just keeping my receipts on oil and filters.
If you stick with that oil long term, it would be an interesting data point to know when you start burning oil.
 
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I am not sure about these engines failing randomly. My thought was to get a little bit of economic utility out of the TGMO, while still making maximum use of the AMSOIL.
IDK. I fallow debate on Toyota forums and Facebook page and failures are all over the place. Some failed as low as 500mls. It seems majority fail around 17,000mls. Not sure why is that mileage some “magic “ number.
Some reach 30k and then fail. And then some never had issues.
 
IDK. I fallow debate on Toyota forums and Facebook page and failures are all over the place. Some failed as low as 500mls. It seems majority fail around 17,000mls. Not sure why is that mileage some “magic “ number.
Some reach 30k and then fail. And then some never had issues.
Maybe. My comment was just a way to put structure to a situation where you get “ free” TGMO changes but you want benefit of expensive AMSOIL oil also.
 
My comment was just a way to put structure to a situation where you get “ free” TGMO changes but you want benefit of expensive AMSOIL oil also.

His main reason is to change the oil every 5,000 miled, not 10K as per OEM manual. He probably chose Amsoil because the car brand new and is a bi-turbo.

The official version of why those engines fail is that some kind of debris (possibly metal shavings) were left inside the engine from the factory. But the random mileage failings tell me it might be something else than just metal debris that are easily caught by the oil filter.
 
I’ve also been told it’s what ever oil they have in their barrels…not TGMO. Even then paperwork says bulk oil.
What does your invoice say?

When my cars are at the dealer for ToyotaCare maintenance, the invoice lists "002790W20101 - GTMO 0W20 BK SP WTY"
 
His main reason is to change the oil every 5,000 miled, not 10K as per OEM manual. He probably chose Amsoil because the car brand new and is a bi-turbo.

The official version of why those engines fail is that some kind of debris (possibly metal shavings) were left inside the engine from the factory. But the random mileage failings tell me it might be something else than just metal debris that are easily caught by the oil filter.
They have been failing since 2018. Main bearings were failing in the LS600 when the engine was introduced in 2018.
 
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