2024 Acura Integra 1.5L 4cyl

Joined
May 13, 2010
Messages
227
Location
TX
My son just purchased his first new car (ok, actually very lightly used), a 2024 Acura Integra A-Spec Technology with 4K miles and the 1.5L 4 cylinder engine. The manual calls for 0W-20 with no particular specs, and the car has an oil life monitor. His plan is to get it changed every 5K miles at a combo of the dealership and a local Honda/Acura specialist shop.

Are there any loved BITOG oils for this engine?
 
My son just purchased his first new car (ok, actually very lightly used), a 2024 Acura Integra A-Spec Technology with 4K miles and the 1.5L 4 cylinder engine. The manual calls for 0W-20 with no particular specs, and the car has an oil life monitor. His plan is to get it changed every 5K miles at a combo of the dealership and a local Honda/Acura specialist shop.

Are there any loved BITOG oils for this engine?
Many owners notice increasing oil levels due to fuel dilution. A very effective bandaid is 91/93 fuel and 5w-30 or 5w-40/0w-40 in the crankcase. With this combo fuel dilution is no longer an issue, and car makes a bit more power due to fuel grade.
 
Many owners notice increasing oil levels due to fuel dilution. A very effective bandaid is 91/93 fuel and 5w-30 or 5w-40/0w-40 in the crankcase. With this combo fuel dilution is no longer an issue, and car makes a bit more power due to fuel grade.
How can using premium fuel reduce oil dilution?

Driving in Texas, and doing 5k oil changes, fuel dilution won't be a problem. It's okay to move to 5W-30, though, as a hedge. In various parts of the world, away from CAFE influence, 5W-30 oil is listed in the owners manual as an option.

With my Civic, using that same engine, I've used a variety of 0W-20 and 5W-30 oils, and all seem fine. Mechanically, the engine is solid. Mine burns no oil. The one mechanical weakness that I'm aware of is blowing head gaskets, but what oil you use has no influence on that.
 
How can using premium fuel reduce oil dilution?

Driving in Texas, and doing 5k oil changes, fuel dilution won't be a problem. It's okay to move to 5W-30, though, as a hedge. In various parts of the world, away from CAFE influence, 5W-30 oil is listed in the owners manual as an option.

With my Civic, using that same engine, I've used a variety of 0W-20 and 5W-30 oils, and all seem fine. Mechanically, the engine is solid. Mine burns no oil. The one mechanical weakness that I'm aware of is blowing head gaskets, but what oil you use has no influence on that.
I'm not an engineer to answer "How?". But it is a measure that many other Honda/Acura 1.5T owners report to be effective.
 
try a 0w-20 and see how it works or if wanted a heavier viscosity 5w-30 preferably a good choice & Pennzoil Ultra Platinum brand is decent oil in both viscosities. and use a good name brand filter as Wix XP or Fram Ultra. plus run a fuel / injector system cleaner like Techron about a tank full of gas before oil change.
 
How can using premium fuel reduce oil dilution?

Driving in Texas, and doing 5k oil changes, fuel dilution won't be a problem. It's okay to move to 5W-30, though, as a hedge. In various parts of the world, away from CAFE influence, 5W-30 oil is listed in the owners manual as an option.

With my Civic, using that same engine, I've used a variety of 0W-20 and 5W-30 oils, and all seem fine. Mechanically, the engine is solid. Mine burns no oil. The one mechanical weakness that I'm aware of is blowing head gaskets, but what oil you use has no influence on that.
You are correct, I think, that premium fuel is not going to help much with oil dilution. But oil dilution is not what kills these engines, it is head gasket failure between cylinders 2 and 3 at first and then moving on to cylinders 1 and 2 and 3 and four. Premium gas will hinder detonation and delay or prevent the blown engines. As is well known, many on BITOG gravitate to thicker oils to address potential engine problems, but not sure that they will do much here, and I note that Hondas are well known to run happily on any oil, and to deliver hundreds of thousands of miles on thinner, recommended, oils. I would suggest a 5,000 OCI in addition to consistent use of premium fuel. I would use good quality oil, but it is hard to get a truly bad oil if you stick with known brands. If you like thicker oils, go for it. Love that car and wish your son best of luck.
 
Personally I’d run a nice 0W-30. If you’re going to stick with a 0W-20 perhaps M1 ESP 0W-20 or Valvoline Restore and Protect.
if you are a Mobil 1 fan boy, the 0w-30 AFE is a good choice, better additive package for this type of engine , and lower running viscosity for the variable valve timing and great start up protection. this is good oil for NON European oils.
 
if you are a Mobil 1 fan boy, the 0w-30 AFE is a good choice, better additive package for this type of engine , and lower running viscosity for the variable valve timing and great start up protection. this is good oil for NON European oils.
Personally I run euro in everything without issue. VVT is not affected by viscosity. I’m an ESP fan but not necessarily a M1 fanboy.
 
Last edited:
Engine oil also is like a hydraulic fluid to parts of a engine in relation to cam phasers too, and among other viscosity sensitive components, as being careful of a viscosity pertaining ' to a euro oil which have different per say applications, does not mean it is a one shoe fits all.
 
Thanks, everyone. All good stuff to consider.

Having come from a hand-me-down 2012 Hyundai Sonata with the Theta II engine that did grenade itself related to the rod bearing issue that was (eventually) covered by Hyundai because of a class action lawsuit, he did a ton of research, and I am guessing he did not run across the head gasket issue. For the Honda/Acura, I had heard of the fuel dilution issue in earlier model years, but not the head gasket issue until today.

All of our cars are turbo so he runs 89 in the Acura, (plus we use 89 in the Volvo and 93 in the Mazda because it actually has a factory tune for higher octane gas), so hopefully that will help. I certainly like the idea of moving to a 5W-30, but I assume the smart thing to is to use 0W-20 through the warranty period so there are not any issues, should a problem arise. I've always run a bottle of high quality fuel system cleaner before every 5K OCI, so I will remind him to do that as well.
 
Engine oil also is like a hydraulic fluid to parts of a engine in relation to cam phasers too, and among other viscosity sensitive components, as being careful of a viscosity pertaining ' to a euro oil which have different per say applications, does not mean it is a one shoe fits all.
Oil temperature has more affect on viscosity than whats printed on the bottle. VVT systems are designed to work properly in a very large viscosity range.

OP sorry for the highjack I’m out.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom