Screw Honda, UOA on these engines show severe fuel dilution of 4-5% in almost all the reports
2023 Acura - First oil change timing?
- Thread starter SpectreSE
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Dump that oil right after the Break-in Period . You can add a Moly additive after
For every person that says they did XYZ short first interval changes and has always done this and never had issues blah blah blah there are more that didn't with the same result. The metal folks worry about...that's what your oil filter is for.
If you go to the Ridgeline forum and search on the topic you'll find a myriad of info on the subject.
You'll also find the Pdf for the honda OLM that talks about the parameters it measures when it decides its time to change your oil, Im pretty sure I posted it prior.
I use the onboard computer as a guide only, but reset the vehicle whenever the oil is changed. First oil is changed with less than 5,000 miles driven on a new vehicle. After that no more than 7,500 miles. After warranty has concluded I don't let time determine the OCI, but use miles driven. So if only 3,000 miles are driven in one year, will wait until 6 - 7,000 miles to change oil again, but no longer than two to two and half years. Have seen no evidence that oil deteriorates within this window.
With some of the vehicles only running short trips, annual OCI of 6 - 7,000 miles driven has proven to work well for me if I reach that distance. Always had "other issues" fail, as well as aging vehicle before the engine fails with this approach. This is using Full Synthethic to spec. plus a quality oil filter. And don't forget to inspect/vacuum/replace the engine air filter too!
With some of the vehicles only running short trips, annual OCI of 6 - 7,000 miles driven has proven to work well for me if I reach that distance. Always had "other issues" fail, as well as aging vehicle before the engine fails with this approach. This is using Full Synthethic to spec. plus a quality oil filter. And don't forget to inspect/vacuum/replace the engine air filter too!
Do you have Honda 2.0t engine? Its all different, newer toyota engines do not dilute oil with gas as much, and if you go back to non GDI engines, its a different story. The experience needs to be specific to this engine.
On that 2015 Honda Civic I had I ran it almost 5,000 mi in a lot of it was highway and then I changed it for the first time and then I changed it again at like 7500. If I was going to change it early I still wouldn't change it before 3,000 miles
I have a customer for my buisiness who recently picked up a new honda with the 1.5t and they purchased the unlimited mile maintenance warranty. They said they will only honor the oil changes within their required interval (which they said is between 4500 and 5500 miles). Says a lot if the dealer won't honor a warranty because you went over the interval.
Now is perfect timing fresh oil for the summer driving season and you should have a sunny day soon to get it done!
High Moly IS NOT due to assembly!!!! The oil used by Japanese Manufacturers has high Moly 600-800 PPM all of their oils are blended by Idemitsu Lubricants. In the U.S. the oil is blended in Jeffersonville, Indiana. The Japanese want their Low Viscosity oils to have High Moly levels. Also Toyota oils are not supplied By Mobil, they also use Idemitsu.
Unless things have very recently changed, TGMO is definitely in a Mobil style bottle.
I do my first oil "service" at ~500 miles. I have a local, 100% trusted shop I use. They change the oil filter and add the appropriate amount to replace what was lost pulling the filter. Not a true change but I figure any impurities are going to be within the filter so it gives me peace of mind. And with a quart, give or take, of synthetic oil and a filter it's $20 well spent. YMMV
Shel_B
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I found that site and information yesterday. The information doesn't fully satisfy me because it does not fully address my internal questions and curiosity, but it is nonetheless helpful and has given me some ideas for further searching.
As a response to my direct question to you, is that all you have to share? Is that the source of the information you used to make your initial assertion? I've seen that source referenced elsewhere, and even a couple of times in this thread.
I usually change it between 1k-5k for no rhyme or reason. What is the purpose of the moly in the OEM fill? Wear metals are of no concern in the OE fill other than baseline. The metals are never even high enough to warrant dumping it. If anything, my concern is the viscosity due to the fuel dilution people see in specific engines.
They are 4 bangers. The Merc is a two liter, while the Beemer is the 2.8-liter N20. Both are inline gasoline engines requiring Premium. Given the potential for oil dilution associated with lower annual miles driven, I plan to test the oil periodically to proactively identify any concerns.
Hoping to keep these vehicles for as long as possible, particularly given the low miles driven each year. Will see how successful I am but have just invested in a more advanced OBD2 scanner to help with servicing and keep an eye on things as the years progress.
Dont know about other 4 cylinder cars, but Honda 2.0t engine will dilute oil with gas even for mostly highway driving. Not all 4 cylinder engines are the same, even if they are GDI turbo.
There are actual UOA reports about this engine with actual data.
I would bet that the UOAs done at 2,000 miles show a similar level of fuel dilution as the UOAs done at 10,000 miles. After an oil change, the amount of fuel in the oil will hit a steady state level fairly quickly. From there, the fuel level in the oil will go down when the oil is hot as the fuel boils off and gets circulated through the PCV system, and will increase when the engine is cold or operated at high load/rpm. The level measured in the UOA will largely reflect the engine's operating condition over the previous few hundred miles.
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