2022 Crosstrek Drain Plug Crush Washer Replacement

I am by no means an expert but I believe the rounded side would go toward the oil pan and the flat side would be on the drain bolt. The rounded side would stop any oil going beyond that point.
Most Honda sites and even a few dealers have said the flat side goes to the pan the round side to the bolt head.. That is the way I have been doing it for years with never a leak..
 
That is incorrect I have owned and worked on a half dozen of these
including my 22 forester I just changed the oil on a couple weeks ago.

the flat side goes towards the bolt.. rounded side towards that pan.
It actually crushes.
However, I doubt it actually matters. Should work fine both ways.. but it comes from the factory rounded side towards pan.

the first time you change it.. the factory one is painted to the drain plug.. you need a small screwdriver or pick to snag it.

every change after that it pops right off.

I highly prefer not to reuse because they crush and you can tell when its done crushing makes it easy to tell how tight to get drain bolt... however my first change on the 22 forester they sold me the wrong size crush washer.. so I had to reuse it... but I do have a stack of 6 correct ones now.

For those that dont know these arent solid flat "crush" washers like you see on hyundai etc.
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Nope on a Honda that is correct flat side to pan....
 
Glad a couple of experienced Subaru oil changers chimed in on this one. Subarus are always a little quirky. Painting the drain plug along with the crush washer from the factory is a Subie thing. As a matter of fact I had a 2017 Forester that had such a paint bond in the threads of the plug that it rounded off trying to remove it. I had to take it to the dealer had to get it out.

Rounded side of the crush washer next to the pan, and make sure you buy the oem crush washers; Subaru ones are somewhat unique. After the first oil change Subarus are among the easiest cars to do an oil change on. Good luck going forward.
 
Glad a couple of experienced Subaru oil changers chimed in on this one. Subarus are always a little quirky. Painting the drain plug along with the crush washer from the factory is a Subie thing.


A number of automakers do this. All the Japanese vehicles I’ve had were painted.
 
Happy Thanksgiving to all!

I did the oil change on my Crosstrek today, it's at the 6 months since I bought the car, only 2900 miles on the vehicle and factory fill oil.

I bought the crush washer to replace the one on the drain plug, not certain how to get the original one off the drain plug, so I examined the plug, looked fine, and reinstalled the plug without changing the washer, torqueing to the right spec, checked for leaks (non were present) after completing the oil change.

When I bought the washer at the dealer, they said you could change it out every other oil service.

Do you need a special tool to remove the crush washer? One side of the washer is round, the other side flat, so I am thinking the round sound installs towards the bolt head with the flat side going up against the oil pan.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

RevRider
When I did my first oil change on my WRX, it seemed to be painted on. I put the bolt head in a vise and tapped it off.
 
I got the 99cent pick set from HF great for painted on drain washers.. or snagging orings (carefully)
image_2022-11-25_093409081.png
 
rand is correct in orientation...however, you can use these over and over and over without ever having any leak-related issues...
 
rand is correct in orientation...however, you can use these over and over and over without ever having any leak-related issues...
I re-used mine about a dozen changes with no issue. Then shew wept a bit on me. IIRC Amazon had Dorman brand a few $ for 12.

I now change it every year which is 3 or 4 7-8k OCIs for me.
 
rand is correct in orientation...however, you can use these over and over and over without ever having any leak-related issues...
Having owned and serviced Nine subaru over 35 years, They usually wont leak but the tightening torque goes up a bit, and the removal torque can become excessive. With the crush, you can tighten the plug until the washer stops crushing. Makes for an easy removal.
My wife's Subaru servicing dealer writer was scolding me, saying the DP was "loose" when we were in there with a new 2021 outback for rear axle noise and an OC. I said it wasn't leaking - so it wasnt "loose". Then I dropped the BOMB telling them last OC was performed at a selling dealer Subaru service center. Got no more snide remarks from the peanut gallery. Don't mess with the NIASE Master !

@Al may recall this being posted by AlleyCat at subaruforester.org over a decade ago.

Subaru engineering and bean counter mistake. small 14MM head with a large plug. China sourced pan and plug, VERY mild steel.
Removal trial with Craftsman 6 point box combo wrench - and a hammer, LOL. Sadly, vice-grips required next.
Dealer refused to replace this garbage bolt under warranty. Schmoes.

FB14mmdrainplug_100211.JPG
 
And Trav, thank you for the Subaru bulletin link.
And as an aside, I had seen that posted on Subie board. My daughter bought a 22 Crosstrek that was mft’d Dec 2021. When we took it in for complementary oil change I told the service advisor I wanted the plug swapped out per the TSB and he acted like he had no clue about it. They then tried to play it off since there was no production date range on the bulletin. Long story short, we lucked out as both her oil and tranny plugs were the new one’s straight from factory.
 
rand is correct in orientation...however, you can use these over and over and over without ever having any leak-related issues...
As a professional mechanical engineer, the flat should go to towards the turning flange which in this case would be the bolt flange.
The issue is the chamfer on the pan threads - if they are deep, the radius on the washer may not get crushed - so I install them with FLAT TOWARDS THE PAN until it stops crushing and there is a torque ramp-up.
Low torque required, NO leaks.

Who cares what Subaru does, they haven't have a good track record with the boxer over the past decade and a half.

- Ken
 
Flat side of the washer goes towards the pan.
This is what I've always done. Nissan and Subaru drain plug washers are the same. In my experience if you put the flat side of the washer towards the oil pan, you can use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry the old washer enough so you can thread it off the bolt. I'd much rather have a flat aluminum washer.
 
And Trav, thank you for the Subaru bulletin link.
+2

I wonder if they'll just give me the new drain bolt if I walk in and ask for it? Mine is starting to look like the one pictured on the TSB and that's from just two oil changes, using good quality 6-point Wright sockets. Maybe the fact they're painted black adds to the noticeable wear-and-tear, but it's not a good look at all.
 
+2

I wonder if they'll just give me the new drain bolt if I walk in and ask for it? Mine is starting to look like the one pictured on the TSB and that's from just two oil changes, using good quality 6-point Wright sockets. Maybe the fact they're painted black adds to the noticeable wear-and-tear, but it's not a good look at all.
You will have to buy it.
 
+2

I wonder if they'll just give me the new drain bolt if I walk in and ask for it? Mine is starting to look like the one pictured on the TSB and that's from just two oil changes, using good quality 6-point Wright sockets. Maybe the fact they're painted black adds to the noticeable wear-and-tear, but it's not a good look at all.
Dont you have the 17MM?! You must be talking CVT.
 
You will have to buy it.
Correct per service bulletin 02-189-22

But they are lying. It was and is a part spec or design/manufacturing failure. I have never seen such a soft bolt head.
Cheap weasel schmoes.

WARRANTY / CLAIM INFORMATION:
There is NO coverage in the Warranty Labor Time Guide for this replacement as the fault cannot
occur without improper torque, poor workmanship, incorrect tool usage, Etc being the primary cause.
 
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