I have the 1.8 running an IS38 etc. and it's more than 2x stock power - runs like a top and beat the crap out of it...80K miles/4 years.
2021 VW GLI - Track Day (Open Lapping) at TMP
- Thread starter dgunay
- Start date
How do you like the IS38? People always say you get good power out of it, but spools quite late compared to IS20.
I have a 19 GLI only engine tune no DSG yet as it’s my wife’s daily driver and from what a lot I read seems to make the trans a little to aggressive over stock
I got mine tuned under 1000 miles now we are over 20k now.
Intercooler would be the next mod after more engine power from a tune
I got mine tuned under 1000 miles now we are over 20k now.
Intercooler would be the next mod after more engine power from a tune
Ha the difference is a few '00 RPM...hardly enough to worry about.
Did you make the jump to the Macan calipers??? If not, I highly recommend it. I have them on my S4 and they're a huge upgrade from stock.
You can run STI and EVO pads. Pad selection is crazy and plenty of people have extras at the track just in case.
I got my from Sunset Porsche in Maryland for 255 a pop shipped.
Seen both your videos. This and the Civic one. Brother, wth you doing on track without a helmet??? Especially in your jetta with a sunroof.
You seem like a pretty good driver, but it's not you you gotta worry about, it other drivers. Anything can puncture a tire, hit some liquid the car in front of you spilled, etc, and you're mowing grass and heading for an obstacle that don't move.
Please get a helmet at the minimum.
You seem like a pretty good driver, but it's not you you gotta worry about, it other drivers. Anything can puncture a tire, hit some liquid the car in front of you spilled, etc, and you're mowing grass and heading for an obstacle that don't move.
Please get a helmet at the minimum.
Agreed, but add it needs improved ventilation (RS3 brake ducts are not enough,
you need remove the dust plates) and definitely alter coding 'emergency brake
assist' to the weakest available setting (via VCDS). Same as on all Mk5 and Mk6.
Don't enter any race track without this.
.
Pagid RSL, PFC 08 or 11, Hawk DTC series are good. Some cars, depending on brake set up can get away with cheaper stuff (BMW, Porsche, STi, Evo).
Titanium shims should help to protect boots and prevent some heat transfer to piston assembly.
Problem with fixed calipers is that they don’t shed heat very well. BMW in new G generations have different Brembo designed with better ventilation bcs. this problem.
VW/Audi generally struggle on track with brake set up, especially VW.
What track allows that? Here at HPR one would get booted out and never allowed back.
Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
Helmets are not required by this track, unless it's a cabriolet, or if you have a passenger.
But you are right, I should have worn it (I have a helmet, I ride a bike).
I'm worried that excessive heat would damage the brake lines if I remove dust plates.
I did all necessary coding including XDS intervention too, no problem on that side.
LOOK at his video.
I saw it. It was more in the form of a question/statement. Those are NOT serious people.
Just re-read it. My fault. Got it. Glad to see your videos and that you were wearing a helmet. Sorry.
You can have the best of the best calipers, pads, fluid. If the brakes don't get adequate cooling, you'll have the same issue, albeit delayed. You NEED ducting if you're seriously looking into a track toy that can hot lap. If you can get it from the front of the car, that would be excellent.
Take my wife's mini Cooper countryman s all 4. Not the best brakes but adequate. Definitely not at the power level or handling prowess of a R or GLI. When I took it in the Kancamagus hwy, granted not a track, but the downhill will test your brakes on a spirited drive, the stupid thing barely had any noticeable brake fade. Mind you, not a track pad, no brake upgrades.
The thing has brake ducts from the front bumper all the way to the fender well pointing at the slots in the heat shield.
It's the only thing I can attribute to its braking.
The only issue with removing those metal dust shields is that you risk cooking your ABS bits.
I understand your concerns. I didn't want to complicated in my previous post.
The trick is to cut the shields so that ABS sensor and wires remain covered.
Emergency brake assist is most important. Without that you either will get into
ABS (which you wouldn't want on track) or need to brake overly wary to not get
into these annoying ABS interventions. Not an option. Don't miss to use VCDS to
the least intrusive setting! Unfortunately VW's decided to use a emergency brake
assist factory setting which is noticeably inclined overcautiously compared to say
BMW incl. Mini or even Porsche.
Mine are like that, trimmed to fit the BBK but cover the important bits.
On the VCDS/OBDEleven bits - these are the two I have deactivated:
| Hydraulic brake assist |
| Straight ahead brake stabilization |
Admitted, both ball joints likely won't appreciate hot rotors.
Not sure but depending on severeness and duration of heat.
'Hydraulic brake assist' is what I pointed out. However, I doubt
you have deactivated since there's no option to deactivate for
this.
There are three options: an even more annoying early intrusive
interventions, factory interventions (medium), later less intrusive
interventions. Guess you'd know this, but probably not the OP:
Early and later mean depending on how quickly you step onto
your brake pedal. You want to act quickly eg from gas onto brake
without any disturbing interventions or at least the very least ones.
Unfortunately hydraulic/emergency brake assist detects (or does
misapprehend) your quickness being an emergency case to help
an average driver. FULL braking incl. ABS is the result. It puts you
in being an passenger, you're no longer the boss.
.
Actually...on the MK7...mine is deactivated...Admitted, both ball joints likely won't appreciate hot rotors.
Not sure but depending on severeness and duration of heat.
'Hydraulic brake assist' is what I pointed out. However, I doubt
you have deactivated since there's no option to deactivate for
this.
There are three options: an even more annoying early intrusive
interventions, factory interventions (medium), later less intrusive
interventions. Guess you'd know this, but probably not the OP:
Early and later mean depending on how quickly you step onto
your brake pedal. You want to act quickly eg from gas onto brake
without any disturbing interventions or at least the very least ones.
Unfortunately hydraulic/emergency brake assist detects (or does
misapprehend) your quickness being an emergency case to help
an average driver. FULL braking incl. ABS is the result. It puts you
in being an passenger, you're no longer the boss.
.
