No, he was very clear that the dealership is going to replace anything damaged that isn't body work. He claims it is just the bumper but I haven't seen it yet. I'm at work and he's leaving early so I'm meeting him tomorrow after 7am to take a look.Sorry about your issues. Things happen.
Paging @Owen Lucas
My guess is he will tell you to get an independent appraiser then go from there. I will add you don't want body shops doing mechanical / suspension work - even if they say they can.
I meant what @Owen Lucas would tell you, not the dealer.No, he was very clear that the dealership is going to replace anything damaged that isn't body work. He claims it is just the bumper but I haven't seen it yet. I'm at work and he's leaving early so I'm meeting him tomorrow after 7am to take a look.
As for things happening? I agree. I thanked him for being upfront and he reiterated that people make mistakes and all that matters is what you do after the mistake to make it right. That left me optimistic.
Gonna come out of this with half a new truck for $1100For 1100 an 8y 100k warranty is a no brainer.
Bear with me here...just working this out in my head during a busy work todayy. Theoretically, if they replace what they need to replace and align the vehicle and they are able to get everything within spec, that's a decent indication the frame and remaining suspension parts are good?I meant what @Owen Lucas would tell you, not the dealer.
If there is no paint and no frame damage then I would just let them change the parts. They want it gone more than you do. I would still ask them to pay for you to get the appraiser - so nothing is missed.
Oy vey...
Just got a phone call from the service manager. Everything was done and tech put the wheel on with no lug nuts and then tried to drive it out for the test drive and the wheel came off and there's suspension and bumper damage. I can use any body shop I want, they will replace anything that needs replacing, and he put a Highlander aside for me for a loaner.
If it wasn't warranty work...I wouldn't have brought it to the dealership monkeys...
Sorry about your issues. Things happen.
Paging @Owen Lucas
My guess is he will tell you to get an independent appraiser then go from there. I will add you don't want body shops doing mechanical / suspension work - even if they say they can.
You can have them ask the shop to set it up on a frame machine, bolt the frame to the bench and measure it out.Bear with me here...just working this out in my head during a busy work todayy. Theoretically, if they replace what they need to replace and align the vehicle and they are able to get everything within spec, that's a decent indication the frame and remaining suspension parts are good?
Here is an email I was thinking of sending. I would appreciate your (and other's) feedback.You can have them ask the shop to set it up on a frame machine, bolt the frame to the bench and measure it out.
The suspension mounting points is what I'd be worried about if they got bent. It need a good inspection on a lift. Probably lots of scratching to the frame, cradle, hopefully not the body.
This is not going to be an insurance claim on my part. Service manager stated he already spoke to the general manager and Toyota corporate and everything needed has been approved.I'd have the shop do the suspension work, verified with OEM parts alignment etc. Body work. If its just the facebar on the bumper, they can do that as well.
Is the fender or apron (inner fender behind fender liner) bent?
Any body work I'd take it to a Toyota Approved body shop. Many dealers own their body shops or at least have a certified shop that they have a relationship with.
You should be able to take it to any shop, if you are filing an insurance claim that is, which in this case, might not be the best move for reporting purposes, using their shop would be ideal. The wheel goof up is most likely an outlier and hopefully they get the message across to the new tech and shop that this repair should be perfect...because you will be inspecting with a fine tooth comb!
This is not going to be an insurance claim on my part. Service manager stated he already spoke to the general manager and Toyota corporate and everything needed has been approved.
The dealership that did the damage is not a certified Toyota body shop but the dealership in Worcester about 20 mile away is certified. Ask them send it there?
- Did the wheel fully separate from the hub? Did the rotor hit pavement? How fast was the tech going approximately? My concern being damage to the hub, rotor/caliper, wheel studs, knuckle, CV axle, suspension, and frame.
- I’m formally requesting:
- 1. Pre-repair inspection report from an independent shop of my choosing
- 2. Pre-repair alignment/frame measurements
- 3. Post-repair alignment measurements
- 4. Written incident report
Thank you, Sir.I would take it to the Toyota Certified body shop.
Sometimes shops of competing brands like to stick it to each other, and charge as much as possible in my experience, which might be good for you here.
The alignment request should not be an issue, before and after is standard with suspension work.
I think frame measurment is excellent peace of mind, especially if they can get the tram to measure the mounting points for the shock tower etc.
Incident report. This will likely be just an estimate with additional notes. I don't see a tech writing a document free-style but an email should be helpful for documentation.
If the rotor contacted the ground, or inside of the wheel, replacing it would be helpful. Have them take photos of everything. Minor scratches and scrapes fromt he incident should be correctly repaired, not just covered up with undercoat.
Doesn't look so bad! I'd have the inside drum of the wheel checked to make sure the wheel studs / rotor didn't damage the spokes or drum.Here is a picture. Wheel obviously impacted into the top of the wheel well/fender.
It took until Post #32 for the real solution.I would just order this, install it, and be done with the needle bearing issue.
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-2...ngcomplete-kit-eliminates-needle-bearing.html
Insanity is paying anything at all right now while it's under warranty. I'm no mathematician, but if the same thing happens in the same time/mileage, it will happen on a 13 year old truck with 150k miles. If I still have it at that point, and I likely will not, I can pay an indy shop then IF it happens. Why pay ANYTHING right now if I don't have to?It took until Post #32 for the real solution.
Option 1: fix it forever
Option 2: install the same parts and expect a different result = definition of insanity
This can all be done with the front pig still in the vehicle. And an indy probably woulda remembered to install lugnuts, too.....![]()
It took until Post #32 for the real solution.
Option 1: fix it forever
Option 2: install the same parts and expect a different result = definition of insanity
This can all be done with the front pig still in the vehicle. And an indy probably woulda remembered to install lugnuts, too.....![]()
I keep trying to get detailed dims of their tools 'cause I wanna just make myself a set. Partially I'm cheap and partially I like working with my hands (and my machine tools)I maintain a 2021 Tundra 4x4 this looks like a must do before its first front diff oil change.
I changed the rear diff oil a while ago but hadn't changed the front diff oil yet because of this problem still floating around to this day. Plus I don't want to waste perfectly good Ravenol oil.
Insanity is paying anything at all right now while it's under warranty. I'm no mathematician, but if the same thing happens in the same time/mileage, it will happen on a 13 year old truck with 150k miles. If I still have it at that point, and I likely will not, I can pay an indy shop then IF it happens. Why pay ANYTHING right now if I don't have to?
The extended warranty wasn't just because of the needle bearing issue. It was also for cam tower leaks and because they removed the transmission cooler in 2020 and for any other issues that arise. Essentially, insurance and peace of mind.I'd rather save time and money. I'd rather save over $900.00 by buying the part and install kit that fixes the problem for good, and not buying the extended warranty. Then there's the time of taking the truck to the dealership. Having it diagnosed, and 'fixed' back to it's failure-prone state, and now more time to fix their mistake. Hopefully back to the condition it was.
But whatever works for you.
I hope the glaring oversight of not installing the lug nuts is not representative of all of their work.