2020 Subaru Legacy 2.5L; M1 EP 0w20 21k mile OCI

This is similar to Blackstone’s accuracy on fuel testing, but even less accurate.

The sample from my truck (14,400 miles) and Ascent (7300 miles) both smelled identical. The truck was <1%, the Ascent was 6.5%. Both by gas chromatography.
There's a big difference in stink level on our car between samples that come back as 1% or less vs 5%.
 
I don’t drive camped in the passing lane holding up traffic like I see most Subarus. The pedal is to the floor on a regular basis. I don’t brake on off ramps when there is no need to. I maintain my speed. I just replaced my factory set of brakes with around 141,000 miles on the car. I get up to speed on the on ramp. I don’t merge with 80 mph traffic going 55 mph. I’m a former state trooper and drive like one. I always use my turn signal, maybe that’s the key. If I’m in the passing lane, I’m passing. I’m a very active driver scanning ahead.

Good luck on your 15 miles at 80 mph. I hear that and feel like you made my point.

When I get to work, I think maybe I should let the car cool for a minute feeling like I just tracked the car. Then other times when I’m not in a rush, I turn the cruise on and drive home like a grandpa getting passed by everyone.
I wouldn’t say 100% that’s the reason. Harder you accelerate the more fuel is used. Fuel gets past the rings regardless. However since your probably the only person online that’s actually gone beyond the 10k miles boundary and actually posted it. I guess first time most Subarus owners get to see what happens to the oil and dilution on long OCI with DI.
 
Maybe I'm outdated and don't have a clue what I'm talking about and everything I believe is wrong, but I have always thought that frequent cold starts and short drives will increase fuel in the oil. I try not to take an oil sample without a long drive before the sample. As long as I remember, I don't jump in my cold car and move it to the ramps for the oil change. I plan it so when I drive home I keep the car running and don't shut the car off until the car is on the ramps. I'm not saying acceleration helps with lowering the fuel either, but I think it has more to do with getting everything warm and burning off moisture and fuel. I'm fully open to the fact that I may not have a clue to what is really going on, but in multiple cars over the last 20 years, I feel it works. I know DI engines are pretty new.

Drive your cars!
 
Maybe I'm outdated and don't have a clue what I'm talking about and everything I believe is wrong, but I have always thought that frequent cold starts and short drives will increase fuel in the oil. I try not to take an oil sample without a long drive before the sample. As long as I remember, I don't jump in my cold car and move it to the ramps for the oil change. I plan it so when I drive home I keep the car running and don't shut the car off until the car is on the ramps. I'm not saying acceleration helps with lowering the fuel either, but I think it has more to do with getting everything warm and burning off moisture and fuel. I'm fully open to the fact that I may not have a clue to what is really going on, but in multiple cars over the last 20 years, I feel it works. I know DI engines are pretty new.

Drive your cars!
GDI isn’t anywhere near as new as you’d think 🤣

Wikipedia said:
The first GDI engine to reach production was introduced in 1925 for a low-compression truck engine. Several German cars used a Bosch mechanical GDI system in the 1950s, however usage of the technology remained rare until an electronic GDI system was introduced in 1996 by Mitsubishi for mass-produced cars. GDI has seen rapid adoption by the automotive industry in recent years, increasing in the United States from 2.3% of production for model year 2008 vehicles to approximately 50% for model year 2016.
 
I also wonder if the jerking from the drivetrain OP feels is ignition timing correction for spark knock. I used to think it was the cvt jerkiness in them until owning my manual transmission FB Subaru and experiencing the jerkiness when ignition timing is adjusted on various hills. Try higher octane for a tank or two.
 
I also wonder if the jerking from the drivetrain OP feels is ignition timing correction for spark knock. I used to think it was the cvt jerkiness in them until owning my manual transmission FB Subaru and experiencing the jerkiness when ignition timing is adjusted on various hills. Try higher octane for a tank or two.
Normal driving the CVT is quite smooth on the Subarus. However If you drive it aggressively or at high speeds it will simulate shifts and use firm shift points. In theory there are no shifts on a CVT.
 
Normal driving the CVT is quite smooth on the Subarus. However If you drive it aggressively or at high speeds it will simulate shifts and use firm shift points. In theory there are no shifts on a CVT.
That really only applies to the TR580 in “D”. If you put these into manual mode & use paddle shifters, it “mimics” gear ratios by quickly changing the position of the drive & driven pulleys rather than a nice gradual change.

AFAIK, all of the TR680s mimic shifts, all the time. IMO, even though it would make the car feel less sporty, they should do the math for multiple speed ranges & figure out where to hold the engine at peak torque and where to hold it at peak HP for best acceleration.

On heavy vehicles like the Ascent, holding the vehicle at peak torque and max boost would more than likely make the vehicle accelerate much more quickly 0-60 than the fake shifts do.
 
Normal driving the CVT is quite smooth on the Subarus. However If you drive it aggressively or at high speeds it will simulate shifts and use firm shift points. In theory there are no shifts on a CVT.
Yes the cvt is very smooth. When it loads the engine up, especially when the drivetrain is under significant load for the rpm and the engine has an ignition timing adjustment, the whole drivetrain nudges a bit and can be confused as the transmission jerkiness.
 
That really only applies to the TR580 in “D”. If you put these into manual mode & use paddle shifters, it “mimics” gear ratios by quickly changing the position of the drive & driven pulleys rather than a nice gradual change.

AFAIK, all of the TR680s mimic shifts, all the time. IMO, even though it would make the car feel less sporty, they should do the math for multiple speed ranges & figure out where to hold the engine at peak torque and where to hold it at peak HP for best acceleration.

On heavy vehicles like the Ascent, holding the vehicle at peak torque and max boost would more than likely make the vehicle accelerate much more quickly 0-60 than the fake shifts do.
On your Ascent if it sees 0 mph, 100 percent accelerator pedal and you release your left foot off the brake from a standstill, it will hold peak power without any shift points. 🏁
 
My jerkiness isn't with the fake shifts. It happens on level ground going normal constant highway speed with no changes in rpm. I can also slide the shifter into the "manual" mode, and it still does it.
 
To the post on your oil sample - - the silicon is an intake side leak or failed intake filter. The dust is causing the 30ppm fe and is ruining your engine. If you really want 300k miles find the cause post-haste. Decades of diesel engine experience and air filter work support this issue. The poster who mentioned chromium could be correct if this engine has chrome rings, but usually longest life usually with molyfaced rings.

Broken EGT tube could do it too- just a 2mm hole will do this, look everywhere! Happy hunting - - your oil experiment is interesting - looks like you might make 300K if you fix this issue.
 
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