2019 Ranger 2.3T Ecoboost - MC Full Synth 5w30 - 10,414 miles

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Does the tune require premium fuel? Have you used premium fuel with every fill up since the tune was installed?
Is the tune something like this with 45hp/60ftlbs https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9603-REB

No fan of rock catcher air filters... I know there are freer flowing dry panel air filter options. Have you serviced the K&N at all? I'd consider the AFE or AEM dry filters since they don't require oil, and easier to service more often. And, they might just catch a little more dirt too. The other option is a noisemaker free flow pod filter/tube kit. Pretty sure Injen, AFE, Mishimoto.... have options with non-oiled pod filters. If you believe you must use an oil'd filter, pretty sure the AFE 5r multi-layered oil filter, IMO, does better than K&N, based on what I've seen downstream of these filters when I've used them.

IMHO, I see too many with modded/tuned vehicles blindly using the recommend intervals/viscosity which is foolish. And, across too many makes/models, I find it all too common. Owners add a turbo or supercharger, or crank the boost up on the factory turbo or supercharger, and then continue following the owner's manual like they're running stock. Makes no sense.

If the engine is GDI only, have you performed any GDI valve cleanings?

So, without any data other than the UOA, I'd recommend either a shorter oil change interval or thicker oil. My vote is for ANY 0w40 oil. Last time I went parts shopping, Valvoline, Mobil1, Castrol, Rotella T6 were locally available. I think M1 0w40 wins 1st prize with 'pricing' from Walmart when available. Another option are the 3.5+ HTHS 30 grade euro/hdeo oils.

Concerning the oil filter, since engine is making more power and torque, burning more fuel to do so, producing more soot, I'd consider an oversized filter option if there is room. You'll have to check for clearance. FL910s is shorter than the FL400s. Its an easy way to get some more media for that 10k interval. So, consider buying an FL400s for a test fit, and a trial run for 10k.
Yep always premium and the K&N actually came with the tune from Ford.

I hadn’t considered a bigger filter. It doesn’t really seem necessary though since my UOA don’t seem to indicate the bypass valve is activity and filters bypassed.
 
Those numbers are trash. Decrease the OCI's and your motor will thank you. Oil is cheap, motors aren't.
Can you elaborate on the trash numbers? Anything intelligent to observe beyond viscosity loss, since you didn’t even mention that?
 
Yep always premium and the K&N actually came with the tune from Ford.

I hadn’t considered a bigger filter. It doesn’t really seem necessary though since my UOA don’t seem to indicate the bypass valve is activity and filters bypassed.
How would the UOA tell you that the filter has bypassed? (it won't).
 
Can you elaborate on the trash numbers? Anything intelligent to observe beyond viscosity loss, since you didn’t even mention that?
If you cannot read and comprehend your own report, thats a waste of your money. Certainly fuel dilution and loss of viscosity are the worst offenders, but the metals and additives dont look the best either. Your truck, do as you want.
 
Yep always premium and the K&N actually came with the tune from Ford.

I hadn’t considered a bigger filter. It doesn’t really seem necessary though since my UOA don’t seem to indicate the bypass valve is activity and filters bypassed.

I would then definitely dump the K&N since it came from Ford 😉

UOA won't tell you anything about the bypass valve activity or indicate anything without comparative particle counts(and not from Blackstoned). Without a PC, a UOA wouldn't even tell if you ran or filter or not.
 
Which one has "very little" fuel dilution? they are all awful. Yes, some of them are REALLY awful, but that doesn't make the less awful ones good.
I always post my UOAs and this is the first time an angry mob has come out and said that the sky is falling. I’ve seen worse from other EBs than mine. It seems common in all of them.
 
I would then definitely dump the K&N since it came from Ford 😉

UOA won't tell you anything about the bypass valve activity or indicate anything without comparative particle counts(and not from Blackstoned). Without a PC, a UOA wouldn't even tell if you ran or filter or not.
UOA would be full of soot if the filter clogged and bypassed, would it not?
 
It’s thin. If you’re gonna keep 5w30 I’d shorten your OCI significantly. Metals don’t look terrible on their face, but timing chain issues won’t show in UOA til it’s too late. I’d act NOW if it were my vehicle; try a 5k sample & see if it’s in grade there to start. 👍🏻
This^^^^^^^^^^.
 
I always post my UOAs and this is the first time an angry mob has come out and said that the sky is falling. I’ve seen worse from other EBs than mine. It seems common in all of them.
Sub-30k UOAs tend to have some lingering effects from initial break-in (sub-20k for sure). So, your previous UOAs were not really commented on because low mileage was apparent. Now, you’ve got numerous UOAs showing you that 1. In your engine and 2. For your usage patterns, this oil is absolutely not up to the task of staying in grade, which indicates it is not protecting the engine properly.

You’ve got multiple members here essentially pleading with you to see the error of thinking these results are “just fine” or because other individual EB UOAs are worse; what do you have to lose to either shorten the OCI or step up to an Xw40 for an OCI or three? See if the results improve. Your first goal should be to keep the oil in grade for whatever the OCI is. After that, you can almost be certain, the other aspects of your reports will begin to resemble the universal averages.

You came here for input and help, right? Nobody’s giving you advice that would be detrimental to your vehicle, but the apparent path it’s on right now may well lead to an early demise. ✌️
 
I always post my UOAs and this is the first time an angry mob has come out and said that the sky is falling. I’ve seen worse from other EBs than mine. It seems common in all of them.
Lots of DI engines fuel dilute, Honda is particularly bad for example, but some of your reports are REALLY bad, I don't think I've ever seen an FP as low as yours posted on here. I don't think I've seen you post these before? Otherwise I'm sure I would have commented on it at that time.

I don't get the impression that there's an angry mob, but I do think it would be a disservice of the membership if we didn't draw attention to some of the worrisome characteristics of the report trend we are seeing here. I would not be OK with that level of fuel dilution if this were my vehicle and I'd make sure the dealer had this information on file.
 
The sky isn't falling. And, I personally don't care what you do or don't do with your vehicle. I don't even know if you plan on keeping it for a million miles, or trade it in every 5 years.

Blackstone accuracy is something I have nothing good to say about. Your data is ALL OVER THE PLACE. Look at all your ending viscs, flashpoints, and fuel numbers. Its a roller coaster. Either find a new lab, and/or adjust your interval, and/or adjust your ending viscosity. You have data. If you don't use it, why even bother? USE YOUR DATA and adapt.

Those with experience concerning 'manufacturers' are simply trying to provide you a warning. Its your vehicle and you get to do whatever you want. Eventually the warranty ends. And, all those common Ford issues will appear. Maybe you'll be lucky and your engine is tough as a brick. Maybe not. Maybe you trade in every few years and won't see the fruits of your intervals. So, why bother?
 
Sub-30k UOAs tend to have some lingering effects from initial break-in (sub-20k for sure). So, your previous UOAs were not really commented on because low mileage was apparent. Now, you’ve got numerous UOAs showing you that 1. In your engine and 2. For your usage patterns, this oil is absolutely not up to the task of staying in grade, which indicates it is not protecting the engine properly.

You’ve got multiple members here essentially pleading with you to see the error of thinking these results are “just fine” or because other individual EB UOAs are worse; what do you have to lose to either shorten the OCI or step up to an Xw40 for an OCI or three? See if the results improve. Your first goal should be to keep the oil in grade for whatever the OCI is. After that, you can almost be certain, the other aspects of your reports will begin to resemble the universal averages.

You came here for input and help, right? Nobody’s giving you advice that would be detrimental to your vehicle, but the apparent path it’s on right now may well lead to an early demise. ✌️
Yep that’s the whole point of posting UOA here, is for the input.
 
I've only reviewed a couple hundred UOAs, but I've never seen a 260* flash point before. That would have me freaking out. The ones in the mid 300s would have me worried.
Have you kept track of DIs? Have you discovered thousands of grenaded engines from fuel dilution that the big autos don’t want you to know about?

Or are you a drain the Amsoil every 3k like these other guys
 
I was involved in the 2.3 Lima built engine, with the turbo camshaft development. There is NOTHING in common between the two engines, and no comparisons can be made. The modern engine does not even share the same bore and stroke. The modern version is a far better engine, capable of far more HP.
The only thing they share in common is total displacement and bore centers, correct?
 
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