You can beat a dead horse to water but you can’t make him think…?
2019 Ranger 2.3T Ecoboost - MC Full Synth 5w30 - 10,414 miles
- Thread starter fusseli
- Start date
- Status
I wish you the best. But you’re tossing around your UOA results like they prove something as far as wear goes, but you’ve never 1. Had a UOA that showed your oil in grade at your sample time, and 2. Never sampled your engine at/near the universal mileage to see if your numbers are at that point at that mileage. You’ve got a lot more faith in Fords warranty lawyers than I do, is all I’m saying.
More worried about lawyers than any sense or science, or UOA analysis. Go troll someone else’s thread!
Ford Lima 2.3T often lasted 200-300k miles, on older oil tech. Why would Clevelands be any different? There are also many many engines running on 5w20. A sheared down w30 by the end of OCI is a bid old don’t care. The only cause for concern otherwise is timing chain speculation that is being argued to be invisible in UOAs. Anyone got an actual point to make or scientific observation to make? Lol
Ford Lima 2.3T often lasted 200-300k miles, on older oil tech. Why would Clevelands be any different? There are also many many engines running on 5w20. A sheared down w30 by the end of OCI is a bid old don’t care. The only cause for concern otherwise is timing chain speculation that is being argued to be invisible in UOAs. Anyone got an actual point to make or scientific observation to make? Lol
Just a dozen years of experience and hundreds of YouTube videos showing how EcoBoosts with “fine” UOAs and following Ford’s maintenance at the letter of the law have blown up.
Since you think sound advice from longtime members & caution based on data & industry experts is trolling, have at it. I’ll be sure to honk & wave when I see your hazards on and your hood up on the roadside.
I would never claim he will experience an early failure. Remember, a 30 viscosity oil is quite sufficient for today's uses. I'd only say that circulating particulates, fuel and the byproducts from evaporated fuel, for 5000 miles beyond what is "smart" is a known chain and phaser killer. Best to stick with 5000 mile OCI's if you see fuel dilution.I was wondering the same thing; considering this engine hasn’t had a single UOA with what ended up being a 30wt oil, how long past 60,001 miles this thing will make it. Add that to the fact that at 45k he’s still running essentially double the iron numbers as the universal averages, yet is defiantly confident there’s not a care (or improvement) in the world to be had.
I was involved in the 2.3 Lima built engine, with the turbo camshaft development. There is NOTHING in common between the two engines, and no comparisons can be made. The modern engine does not even share the same bore and stroke. The modern version is a far better engine, capable of far more HP.
Interestingly, Ford went from a 94mm stroke to 102mm for 2023. The orig 2.3 had a 79.4mm stroke.
Last edited:
I wasn’t claiming he’ll have imminent failure… wasn’t trying to put words in your mouth, just that he’s certainly not stacking the deck in favor of a long, trouble-free engine life. You worded well the main reasons which bookend what should be concerning: timing chain and timing component issues, which can be assisted in life by maintaining lower contaminates, fuel content, & in-spec viscosity. Thanks
I’m just saying Ford knows better than anyone how to make an I4 turbo last amongst high temps and pressures of boost. I’m surprised by the mythology and conjecture in a UOA thread. The only points that have been made are wild theories about wear items that don’t show up in a UOA. That’s useless. Wear because of viscosity loss is something, but lowering to the next grade isn’t a surprise of any kind. You think they didn’t consider this or factor it in?
Homeboy can go back to his boxer engines that eat themselves and HGs for breakfast. We are talking about real engines in this thread LOL
Thought you wished me well and pissed off already. Well, go on!I wasn’t claiming he’ll have imminent failure… wasn’t trying to put words in your mouth, just that he’s certainly not stacking the deck in favor of a long, trouble-free engine life. You worded well the main reasons which bookend what should be concerning: timing chain and timing component issues, which can be assisted in life by maintaining lower contaminates, fuel content, & in-spec viscosity. Thanks
Are these the same Ford engineers that said:
'Those PTU's will be fine with a lifetime fill"
'The 5.4 will do just fine with this new spark plug design' - Not to mention cam phasers, that they STILL can't get right.
EB 4 Cylinder specific:
'Those Ecoboost 4cyls will be just fine with that tiny little headgasket area between cylinders'
So. no, I don't put absolute faith in Ford (Or any other companies) Engineers. They make mistakes ALL the time and every one of them kludges a design to meet some target, usually 'it will last long enough to get the vehicle out of warranty'. I keep my vehicles a long time, so I will do everything in my power to make them last.
Great thing is, we're all free to make our own choices. I kind of want to run an OA on my 5k changes now just out of curiosity.
Last edited:
Just as you have a right to your opinion, so do those who are offering advise in response to your posting these UOAs. If you don't want to hear it, don't post your UOAs. If you want to share, then be prepared to receive advice you may not agree with. No point being a smart aleck when their comments wouldn't exist without your post.
I have to say, if it was my car, I'd at least try a couple of UOAs at 5k and 7.5k. More data is better than less when making decisions. That said, it looks like you're averaging 1300-1400 miles a month. If you want to try a slightly shorter OCI, you can do them every 6 months on a schedule and by your mileage averages they'd be about 8k.
Good luck.
I have to say, if it was my car, I'd at least try a couple of UOAs at 5k and 7.5k. More data is better than less when making decisions. That said, it looks like you're averaging 1300-1400 miles a month. If you want to try a slightly shorter OCI, you can do them every 6 months on a schedule and by your mileage averages they'd be about 8k.
Good luck.
Yep for sure, who else in the world spends hours obsessing over the minutia of the chemical and additive makeup of motor oil, measured in the parts per million?
As for the report, the numbers are not bad but I personally am also with the change it sooner crowd, to keep the lubricant in grade. If you wanted to keep running it down until the computer tells you to change it, I'd try 0w40, it starts off as a thin 40 anyway and will shear into the 30 range pretty quickly.
Nobody has trolled you here. In fact your dismissive replies seem more trollish. It's your truck, do what you want.
I run 5w40 HDEO in my Tbird most of the time. I have considered switching the Ranger to it too. I wanted to establish a baseline of UOAs with Motorcraft oil first.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,118
Does the tune require premium fuel? Have you used premium fuel with every fill up since the tune was installed?
Is the tune something like this with 45hp/60ftlbs https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9603-REB
No fan of rock catcher air filters... I know there are freer flowing dry panel air filter options. Have you serviced the K&N at all? I'd consider the AFE or AEM dry filters since they don't require oil, and easier to service more often. And, they might just catch a little more dirt too. The other option is a noisemaker free flow pod filter/tube kit. Pretty sure Injen, AFE, Mishimoto.... have options with non-oiled pod filters. If you believe you must use an oil'd filter, pretty sure the AFE 5r multi-layered oil filter, IMO, does better than K&N, based on what I've seen downstream of these filters when I've used them.
IMHO, I see too many with modded/tuned vehicles blindly using the recommend intervals/viscosity which is foolish. And, across too many makes/models, I find it all too common. Owners add a turbo or supercharger, or crank the boost up on the factory turbo or supercharger, and then continue following the owner's manual like they're running stock. Makes no sense.
If the engine is GDI only, have you performed any GDI valve cleanings?
So, without any data other than the UOA, I'd recommend either a shorter oil change interval or thicker oil. My vote is for ANY 0w40 oil. Last time I went parts shopping, Valvoline, Mobil1, Castrol, Rotella T6 were locally available. I think M1 0w40 wins 1st prize with 'pricing' from Walmart when available. Another option are the 3.5+ HTHS 30 grade euro/hdeo oils.
Concerning the oil filter, since engine is making more power and torque, burning more fuel to do so, producing more soot, I'd consider an oversized filter option if there is room. You'll have to check for clearance. FL910s is shorter than the FL400s. Its an easy way to get some more media for that 10k interval. So, consider buying an FL400s for a test fit, and a trial run for 10k.
Is the tune something like this with 45hp/60ftlbs https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9603-REB
No fan of rock catcher air filters... I know there are freer flowing dry panel air filter options. Have you serviced the K&N at all? I'd consider the AFE or AEM dry filters since they don't require oil, and easier to service more often. And, they might just catch a little more dirt too. The other option is a noisemaker free flow pod filter/tube kit. Pretty sure Injen, AFE, Mishimoto.... have options with non-oiled pod filters. If you believe you must use an oil'd filter, pretty sure the AFE 5r multi-layered oil filter, IMO, does better than K&N, based on what I've seen downstream of these filters when I've used them.
IMHO, I see too many with modded/tuned vehicles blindly using the recommend intervals/viscosity which is foolish. And, across too many makes/models, I find it all too common. Owners add a turbo or supercharger, or crank the boost up on the factory turbo or supercharger, and then continue following the owner's manual like they're running stock. Makes no sense.
If the engine is GDI only, have you performed any GDI valve cleanings?
So, without any data other than the UOA, I'd recommend either a shorter oil change interval or thicker oil. My vote is for ANY 0w40 oil. Last time I went parts shopping, Valvoline, Mobil1, Castrol, Rotella T6 were locally available. I think M1 0w40 wins 1st prize with 'pricing' from Walmart when available. Another option are the 3.5+ HTHS 30 grade euro/hdeo oils.
Concerning the oil filter, since engine is making more power and torque, burning more fuel to do so, producing more soot, I'd consider an oversized filter option if there is room. You'll have to check for clearance. FL910s is shorter than the FL400s. Its an easy way to get some more media for that 10k interval. So, consider buying an FL400s for a test fit, and a trial run for 10k.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
There is a massive amount of fuel dilution going on here. I'd be concerned about that, as this compromises the oil's ability to adequately protect the engine.
Blackstone does not directly measure fuel (they don't do GC) so their figures are inferred from flashpoint and usually way off.
Things may be different today.
I know first hand just how much manufacturer effort was put into making things "last". The answer was exactly zero. What really happens is that the guy who designs the roller rocker "knows" what rocker material to choose, what bearing will fit, and what surface hardness the roller should be. This is "tribal knowledge" and is handed down and followed without any testing or validation.
Fast forward to today, and what we see a wealth of good information coupled with a few engineers who "forgot" key lessons. It is no surprise head gasket failures happen here, along with cracks. Kinda hard to believe....
Do the manufacturers know best? Not at all. What they claim to know and reality are vastly different. I work in the aviation industry where extreme high quality is common. It's pretty clear automotive manufacturers don't design or build much of anything to last. Maybe that's why it annoys me so much when people say "the manufacturer knows best" when it's so clear they don't, er, ah, or maybe they do and don't care...
Example: (Ford engine block) (surprisingly prone to leaks...)
Example: Ford Explorer roller rockers, 24K miles, no mods. (possibly madeinchina)
I know first hand just how much manufacturer effort was put into making things "last". The answer was exactly zero. What really happens is that the guy who designs the roller rocker "knows" what rocker material to choose, what bearing will fit, and what surface hardness the roller should be. This is "tribal knowledge" and is handed down and followed without any testing or validation.
Fast forward to today, and what we see a wealth of good information coupled with a few engineers who "forgot" key lessons. It is no surprise head gasket failures happen here, along with cracks. Kinda hard to believe....
Do the manufacturers know best? Not at all. What they claim to know and reality are vastly different. I work in the aviation industry where extreme high quality is common. It's pretty clear automotive manufacturers don't design or build much of anything to last. Maybe that's why it annoys me so much when people say "the manufacturer knows best" when it's so clear they don't, er, ah, or maybe they do and don't care...
Example: (Ford engine block) (surprisingly prone to leaks...)
Example: Ford Explorer roller rockers, 24K miles, no mods. (possibly madeinchina)
Fuel dilution appears in cold weather drains. My summer drain was the one with very little fuel dilution. It appears to be consistent with typical EB engines.
- Status