I apologize for muddying up this thread. I would use QS ultimate Protection 5w20. Available at most Wal MartsAppreciate everyone's input. Thought provoking for sure, if nothing else, it shows 1+1≠2 and that's where the art comes in.
I apologize for muddying up this thread. I would use QS ultimate Protection 5w20. Available at most Wal MartsAppreciate everyone's input. Thought provoking for sure, if nothing else, it shows 1+1≠2 and that's where the art comes in.
No worries on my side, it provoked good information.I apologize for muddying up this thread. I would use QS ultimate Protection 5w20. Available at most Wal Marts
You didn't muddy it up. All good.I apologize for muddying up this thread. I would use QS ultimate Protection 5w20. Available at most Wal Marts
Would you mind sending me a PM when you have a spare minute?Yes. If you do choose to go with HPL, make sure to cut your filter open to see if anything has been liberated like it was with mine.
Use QS ultimate synthetic and run it to the oil life hits 0% you’ll be fineI'm due for an oil change in a couple thousand miles and am contemplating my next oil.
History:
I bought this truck with 8848 miles on it in June 2020. Oil was changed before I got it and I changed it at 16504, 26462, 36536 and 46508 with Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. I have yet to add makeup oil on any interval, has lost at most 1/2qt over the entire interval.
Commute is 80% highway, 55 miles round. Almost all family driving is in this truck as well on evenings and weekends. My 2022 mileage was 22858 miles.
My last UOA was slightly questionable but some retesting eased some concerns, but I plan to sample after this oil change.
10000 Mile UOA
With all that said, I'm looking to add a little more buffer to the oil for my intervals. Couple points, I'm going to run 0w20 or 5w20 and I'm going to run til the OLM says 0%.
Ideally, I'll be buying an oil that is readily available, but I'm not opposed to order if necessary.
My first thought is to bump to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (However, I now see that this seems to be an ordering situation).
Thoughts?
Comes down to this imo.
Does the OLM exist to get you past engine warranty and allow manufacturers to claim lower $ per mile maintenance costs?
I believe it does, and I do change my oil on a severe schedule, which means changing the oil at 40% or so oil life remaining.
So let’s say from a conservative perspective that 10k is “extended“ since a large portion of us change oil at 5k …I've never understood why people always try to use a pulled valve cover to show how "clean" their engine is, after many of these over extended oil changes. The newer Toyota's are some of the best examples you have of this.
They pull a valve cover after several 10,000 mile OCI's, and the engine looks clean as a whistle...... Only to find the cylinder walls are scored from frozen oil rings, that are all coked up, and cutting into the cylinders, trashing the engine, while consuming a quart every 500 miles.
There are videos of this all over the Internet. Along with the best remedy to be cutting the OCI's in half..... (5,000 miles max). I've never seen the risk to reward factor of this panning out.... Ever.
What are you gaining? So you save $35.00 or less, (not even a half tank of gas at today's prices), every 5,000 miles, by stretching your oil changes out to double the distance.
And your "reward" is exactly what? Higher odds of a screwed up engine... But don't worry, because the oil checks to be "still good" from Blackstone, or wherever.
At least you can put what all those $35.00 "savings" toward a new short block, and the $2.5K+ the mechanic is going to charge you to change it out.
The point is you're only leaving the oil in for half the time doing 5K changes. This results in less coking of the rings. This has been proven.So let’s say from a conservative perspective that 10k is “extended“ since a large portion of us change oil at 5k …
And we run a major brand SP synthetic oil for 10k in the Toyota on your mind - then an UOA says it was still in spec at 10k - TBN/acid tests included …
So did the piston ring buildup only happen between 5k-10k?
I tried once, the larger filter definitely wasn’t fitting. Not my pic, but you can see it’s friggin tight in there!
I’ll have to cut my filter open since I just changed my oil, 5800 miles on it… I’ll order a filter cutter.
View attachment 146591
This must be a Toyota-specific problem (the scoring) because every engine I've seen with stuck oil control rings, they were squished into their grooves and completely caked up with lacquer and grit, so there was no way they were making contact with, or scoring, the walls. Scoring is usually caused by contamination or inadequate lubrication.The point is you're only leaving the oil in for half the time doing 5K changes. This results in less coking of the rings. This has been proven.
The less they coke up, the less chance they have of seizing and scoring the cylinder walls. You can figure the rest out from there... And you don't need a UOA to do it.
How was it proven ?The point is you're only leaving the oil in for half the time doing 5K changes. This results in less coking of the rings. This has been proven.
The less they coke up, the less chance they have of seizing and scoring the cylinder walls. You can figure the rest out from there... And you don't need a UOA to do it.
I tried the K&N oil filter with the spot welded, sheet metal "nut" on the end. The problem is that "nut" is so rounded off from the stamping process, it's all but impossible to get a socket, (either 6 or 12 point) to grab without slipping right off.Interesting.
I have a 2017 with the Hemi and can get the bigger filter in without much issue. FWIW I go from the front of the truck with the new filter, the only thing that comes close to interfering are the hard A/C lines, but a little twisting and turning I can get around them, and then the filter is clear of everything once installed.
Ive used both the larger RP (20-820) and Fram (XG2).
Excellent question. We have no UOA data on ANY of these engines being torn down.So let’s say from a conservative perspective that 10k is “extended“ since a large portion of us change oil at 5k …
And we run a major brand SP synthetic oil for 10k in the Toyota on your mind - then an UOA says it was still in spec at 10k - TBN/acid tests included …
So did the piston ring buildup only happen between 5k-10k?
It is. The oil rings on many of these engines really get gunked up and stick with extended OCI's. Once they seize, they start carving up the cylinder walls.This must be a Toyota-specific problem (the scoring) because every engine I've seen with stuck oil control rings, they were squished into their grooves and completely caked up with lacquer and grit, so there was no way they were making contact with, or scoring, the walls. Scoring is usually caused by contamination or inadequate lubrication.
5:30 in the video
The oil control ring stack is low tension, so they usually stick compressed, not out, so if Toyota has something else going on then it sounds more like a design issue.It is. The oil rings on many of these engines really get gunked up and stick with extended OCI's. Once they seize, they start carving up the cylinder walls.'
I wouldn't either, but that's because the HEMI is a dirty running engine that's known to produce a ton of carbonaceous grit, that's why AMSOIL had to pull the Ea15K for both the HEMI and the LS engine, the engine produced too much particulate to allow the claimed interval for the filter.While this isn't a problem with the 5.7 HEMI's, I still would not stretch an oil change to 10,000 miles.