2019 4Runner TRD PRO 0w20 Factory Fill 534 mi with Particle Count

[FlyNavyP3]

Good Morning BITOG faithful,

I have submitted for your review the initial break in sample for my 2019 4Runner TRD PRO with the old reliable 4.0 1GR-FE Dual VVT-i V-6. I dumped the fill and factory filter at 534 miles and changed the OE filter for a Fram TG10058, corrent fill is Rotella T4 10w30 in API Spec CK4. Plan to run the current fill to approx 2500 miles and dump again, then change again at 5,000 total miles ( OCI on 3rd change of 2500 ) then let the dealership do their free change at 10k (OCI 5k).

Nothing alarming in this report, I have also included for comparison the break in run on Lauren's 2018 GS350 with the 3.5L 2GR-FKS engine at 1046 miles.

Plan to re-sample again at each follow on OCI to watch metals trend down.

 

[claluja]

Looking good. JP oils love the Mo. Nice timing on the change, with the Si.

Please tell me you still have your old 4runner!

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Originally Posted by claluja
Looking good. JP oils love the Mo. Nice timing on the change, with the Si.

Please tell me you still have your old 4runner!


I do still have both of my 1987 4Runners, the nicer of the two has been moved to a classic auto insurance policy with the purchase of the new 4Runner. Will be selling my 1976 K10 short box Chevy truck to make room in the stable for the new and old 4Runner. I have no intentions of selling my nice 87 4Runner.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
corrent fill is Rotella T4 10w30 in API Spec CK4. Plan to run the current fill to approx 2500 miles and dump again, then change again at 5,000 total miles ( OCI on 3rd change of 2500 ) then let the dealership do their free change at 10k (OCI 5k).
Not a bad idea to boost zinc to the Rotella T4 amount (1200 ppm) for break-in. You previously used Redline Break-In OIl Additive to raise the zinc level on the GS350 ( https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4884454/1 ) and both strategies will work, but I'd probably go with using 1/4 (not 1/2) a bottle of the Redline booster, and just go with a good gasoline oil like you did.

From a previous post, you can see I've always been a moly person, but I'm realizing that slightly higher (reasonable) zddp levels could work well too. Honda-Acura has made a big deal about moly in the past, and it does seem to fill asperties well:

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Its a good idea to get out the metals in there. Extra metals in the oil can't be doing anything good.
I'm more in agreement with the Honda-Acura approach to break-in: Lots of moly. mightymousetech: "I am a dealer tech (20 years with Acura/Honda) every couple years we get another service bulletin from Engineering stating that doing the first oil change early can damage the engine, and we are NOT to change the factory fill early. The factory fill oil is not the issue, it is the high moly assembly lube used they want retained in the oil. Doing the first oil change early can cause hot spots to form in the engine."

Either that, or just plain old PYB 30 weight conventional by itself. I don't see how the extra ZDDP from the Redline is doing much.

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Since I was dumping the factory high Moly oil early I elected not to boost with Red line on this short change. I had the Rotella T4 10w30 from a blow out sale of CJ-4 SM on Amazon a while back, bottles are labeled as CJ-4 SM but as confirmed by Shell here on the forum they contain CK4 and are the new bottle style but we're packaged prior to the official CK4 rollout so thus they were labeled CJ-4 instead.

I have a bunch of 10w30 laying around, at least one more full change of Rotella, plus 30 quarts of Castrol, 40 quarts of M1EP 10w30, 15 quarts of Mile Syn 5w30, 11 quarts of PUP 5w30 so I'm set for a while. The non HDEO will probably get boosted with Red Line. Don't intend on using 0w20 moving forward as the owners manual recommends/suggests/allows for thicker oil for towing, stop and go, off road use. I bought a PRO to use it off road and plan to tow as well so I'll be sticking to at least a XXw30 or thicker for the duration of my ownership. I may even use a 15w40 in the summer months, mostly because I have about 40 quarts of it.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
Since I was dumping the factory high Moly oil early I elected not to boost with Red line on this short change. I had the Rotella T4 10w30


A little boost in ZDDP has been the friend of many engine builders for years, as in Amsoil's statements about their SAE 30 Break-In oil:
"AMSOIL Break-In Oil is an SAE 30 viscosity grade oil formulated without friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston ring seating in new and rebuilt high-performance and racing engines. Contains zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect cam lobes, lifters and rockers during the critical break-in period when wear rates are highest."

... which is counter to Honda's and others use of moly FM in a new engine. Knowing ZDDP actually increases friction, one can see how it would set up an AW boundary on ring faces, yet ring twist would be higher with no FM. More FM means less ring twist. Seems like you actually want a lot of ring twist for a while, then switch to a lot of FM to reduce it, in order to get even break-in over all the ring surfaces.

 

[zfasts03]

I have a `18 TRD Off Road. Does the engine sound quieter with the Rotella T4 10w-30 than the factory fill?

I am running Amsoil 0w-30 and it is a lot quieter than the factory fill. I drained the FF at 1600 miles. There was some glitter in the lower part of the filter housing.

Mine starts up quiet then as warming gets noisy then quiets as it get hots. I am thinking piston slap as they change dimension/shape as they change temperature.

Also seems to be getting quieter as miles accumulate.

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Originally Posted by zfasts03
I have a `18 TRD Off Road. Does the engine sound quieter with the Rotella T4 10w-30 than the factory fill?

I am running Amsoil 0w-30 and it is a lot quieter than the factory fill. I drained the FF at 1600 miles. There was some glitter in the lower part of the filter housing.

Mine starts up quiet then as warming gets noisy then quiets as it get hots. I am thinking piston slap as they change dimension/shape as they change temperature.

Also seems to be getting quieter as miles accumulate.



Cold it's hard to hear anything over the fan, so hard to say cold. I thought it seemed a little loud mechanically on the 0w20 when I first started driving it, but that sensation subsided after about a week of driving and being hyper sensitive to the noises of the vehicle. I can't say I've noticed any real difference in the sound of the engine or the gas mileage with either oil. Gas mileage is consistent (consistently bad) and I took the truck on its first road trip Friday of about 500 miles. Currently has 1400 and change on the clock.