2018 Tacoma TRD 3.5L #2 Cylinder Bad - Repair costs/options?

[JavierH19]

That's extremely odd, especially in just one cylinder. Also some techs may just lie about doing x thing to not actually waste the time doing it but give a whatever expensive answer they think they can get away with. Believing a cylinder is scored after it having low compression is something I'd assume too. Definitely have it inspected again, I'd do it myself since i have my own snake cam. They're cheap these days you can buy one and pull the plugs yourself. A scored bore would burn more oil than the rest. The spark plug would show it. I'd also do a leak down test.

 

[nthach]

If that truck was always dealer service, and if the owner is on good terms with the service department, I’d see if Toyota can “goodwill” the repair.

Else, look for a LKQ engine and stick to 5K OCIs from now on.

 

[LenZee]

A buddy of mine has a 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport with the 3.5 L V6 (2GR-FKS?) engine… He has always had it routinely serviced at the dealership since he bought it (new) and he currently has around 150K miles on the ODO. Mostly freeway miles.

Recently, he got a CEL and when at the dealer, they diagnosed it as a loss of compression in the #2 cylinder (at around 70-75%). They scoped the engine and confirmed scratches/gouges on the cylinder wall. He was told he needs a new engine at the tune of some $10,000 give or take… Looking online, I found the 2GR engine has thin walls with liners cast into the aluminum engine block, so you can’t just bore/repair the block and it requires replacement if there is damage.

If he were to find a local shop (vs. dealer) what is a more realistic new engine cost? How about a shop that may use a refurbished/rebuilt engine, potentially? Anybody have an idea for this scope of work and the cost for it?

As far as what he notices, he claims at idle he would get a little shuddering like when the AC compressor is kicking on. But otherwise, nothing really noticed. No stalling or anything.

If he were to continue just driving his truck into the ground, what might he expect reliability wise? Might he get another 20-50K out of it before total engine failure? Will it just start to burn a lot of oil? What symptoms/issues might he come across if he is just trying to buy some time before he can work out another vehicle option if he goes that route?

He is in a financial pickle at the moment, so trading in/buying a new car is not ideal for him. Trying to help him out and find the best path forward.

Appreciate it!

Might be a good application for Cera Tec additive, Supposed to fill scratches in cylinder wall. May increase compression enough.

 

[FastLane]

Talk to Toyota. If its always been serviced at the dealer then they should help out.

One of the many reasons why I like short intervals on oil changes....

Oil is cheap! Engines are not!

 

[wlk]

Could it be possibly be a stuck ring? Maybe try a piston soak and verify with compression guage if it improves or not. Just a thought and would be a cheap test anyways

 

[SC Maintenance]

Could it be possibly be a stuck ring? Maybe try a piston soak and verify with compression guage if it improves or not. Just a thought and would be a cheap test anyways

Could be lots of things. Could be a stuck ring. Could be a burnt valve. Could be a technician who doesn't know much. Lots more information required.

I don't see Toyota goodwilling an engine. It doesn't hurt to ask, but since it has 150K miles they will likely say its at its useful life. If it was just off warranty might be different.

 

[FastLane]

My Dad owned a Mustang that got a suck ring. One cylinder lost compression. Toss some seafoam in the oil and run it hard out on the highway. See if the ring unsticks. Costs very little. Worth a shot IMO.

 

[Bjornviken]

My Dad owned a Mustang that got a suck ring. One cylinder lost compression. Toss some seafoam in the oil and run it hard out on the highway. See if the ring unsticks. Costs very little. Worth a shot IMO.

This, bet my 2 cents its stuck ring.

 

[Audiman]

I would ask the dealer to perform a proper leak down test on the effected cylinder. Other option is removing the cylinder head for a proper look.

Its easy to put a bore scope down and come to the wrong conclusion the light can reflect causing marks to appear much worse that what the are.

 

[atikovi]

I'll give him $5K for it while it's still running. Thing won't make it another month.

 

[Audiman]

Ship it to the UK I will give him the 5k and put a big diesel in it!

 

[doublebase]

Maybe The Car Care Nut is right about the 10k OCI.

Christ I hope not, after a lifetime of always doing 5,000 mile intervals, I just started doing 10,000 mile interval using Mobil1 EP.

Honestly I’ll probably complete my latest 10,000 (at 7,000 now), and then dial them back to 7,500 or so. Not sure I have the stomach for theses longer runs.

 

[millerbl00]

Maybe The Car Care Nut is right about the 10k OCI.

YES he is.

 

[supton]

How is a 10k oci taking out but one cylinder?

 

[Delta]

This is not a case of a stuck ring in these. Casting defect in the cylinder heads presumably drop debris (chipped valves and valve seats?) into the affected cylinder and it really goes to Hell from there. It's a sporadic issue, but is starting to pop up more now that these engines are aging in these trucks. There have been some low mile examples (20K miles) of this happening, even on trucks as new as 2020. It's most commonly the #6 cylinder. These engines have been direct and port injected in the trucks since their debut in 2016. There's some BS (maybe, maybe not) story from a couple dealers that they need fuel treatment every 5K to keep the junk out of the injectors. The dirty injectors cause a lean condition and therefore "boom". You think there would be a failsafe before hand. Apparently #6 injector is the last in the system and gets all the crud. Don't know how true that is or not. My truck (same engine) sees fuel treatment and oil changes every 5K miles anyway.

The engine in the OP's original post is not going to run much longer. There is no "just run it" in this case.

 

[Greasymechtech]

How is a 10k oci taking out but one cylinder?

Its taking out all cylinders. Wear isn't perfect or even. Failure tends to happen in one place. The rest will follow. We can't rotate piston/rings, valves, or bore sleeves, like your tires to keep wear somewhat even.

And, the OP needs more troubleshooting to verify issue. Want to see the rocker cover off, make sure valves/springs are where they are supposed to be, sludge/varnish amount under valve cover, borescope pictures of several cylinders to compare to dead cylinder, maybe even a pan removal for pictures/inspection, and then more owner details on oil levels, intervals....

Odds are, buddy isn't honest about oil level checks and all those late or skipped intervals, and dealer doesn't want the hassle at that mileage point, and will use simply scare tactic fear the owner into a new engine.

 

[The Critic]

Well, what eventually happened?

 

[0W-16]

He did everything at the dealer... Every oil change, suspension work, brakes, tires, etc...

It does sound like he was doing the 10K OCI's with full-syn he paid extra for, when talking last night. But I will verify.

Owner negligence. His use almost certainly fell within the severe duty guidelines that call for a 5K OCI. 10K OCIs will kill that engine. It's been documented and proven. Owner paid more for his "full-syn" oil change, when the dealer probably use regular dino oil...

 

[The Critic]

Owner negligence. His use almost certainly fell within the severe duty guidelines that call for a 5K OCI. 10K OCIs will kill that engine. It's been documented and proven. Owner paid more for his "full-syn" oil change, when the dealer probably use regular dino oil...

Debatable. Unless the engine was visibly dirty, I doubt this was oil-related.

Also, if you look at the chemistry and TBN of most "conventional" oils and synthetic oils, the detergency is more similar than different. At least in this application, I don't think either would do any better (or worse) for normal intervals.

 

[nthach]

This is not a case of a stuck ring in these. Casting defect in the cylinder heads presumably drop debris (chipped valves and valve seats?) into the affected cylinder and it really goes to Hell from there. It's a sporadic issue, but is starting to pop up more now that these engines are aging in these trucks. There have been some low mile examples (20K miles) of this happening, even on trucks as new as 2020. It's most commonly the #6 cylinder.

Another theory I’ve read is that oil is pooling in the #6 cylinder when the truck sees heavy off-road use(not single track, car camping or getting to the hiking trail) and hydro locks it.

D4-S has been in use for nearly 20 years, the GR-series V6 is made in RWD and FWD configs. The 2GR-FKS/FXS is used in many other models as well but Tacoma use cases are different than say, a Sienna/RX/Highlander or a Camry/ES.