2018 Tacoma TRD 3.5L #2 Cylinder Bad - Repair costs/options?

At 150K miles, why would he buy a new engine? A good used engine can be had for a fraction of the price.
Used engines across the midwest with reasonable mileage are going for over $5000. Mark that up and add labor and $10K for a USED engine won't end up being far off.
 
A buddy of mine has a 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport with the 3.5 L V6 (2GR-FKS?) engine… He has always had it routinely serviced at the dealership since he bought it (new) and he currently has around 150K miles on the ODO. Mostly freeway miles.

Recently, he got a CEL and when at the dealer, they diagnosed it as a loss of compression in the #2 cylinder (at around 70-75%). They scoped the engine and confirmed scratches/gouges on the cylinder wall. He was told he needs a new engine at the tune of some $10,000 give or take… Looking online, I found the 2GR engine has thin walls with liners cast into the aluminum engine block, so you can’t just bore/repair the block and it requires replacement if there is damage.

If he were to find a local shop (vs. dealer) what is a more realistic new engine cost? How about a shop that may use a refurbished/rebuilt engine, potentially? Anybody have an idea for this scope of work and the cost for it?

As far as what he notices, he claims at idle he would get a little shuddering like when the AC compressor is kicking on. But otherwise, nothing really noticed. No stalling or anything.

If he were to continue just driving his truck into the ground, what might he expect reliability wise? Might he get another 20-50K out of it before total engine failure? Will it just start to burn a lot of oil? What symptoms/issues might he come across if he is just trying to buy some time before he can work out another vehicle option if he goes that route?

He is in a financial pickle at the moment, so trading in/buying a new car is not ideal for him. Trying to help him out and find the best path forward.

Appreciate
 

xBa380

Recently had the EXACT same issue as your friend with my 2018 sport (126K miles) most highway, don't pull anything....

Took it back to the dealership O bought it at, (Jan 2018 with 7 miles on it).

They told me $8k to fix, no sorry, no insight other than turn check engine light off and try trading it in! I can sleep at night pull something like that.

I'm 100% engine ignorant, pretty bummed. My 2002 SR5 Tacoma I had before this one went 310K miles with zero issues. That was 100% the reason to get another one.

Any "plane english" insight or ideas?
 
My buddy ultimately ended up trading it in for some over inflated price, like 16-18K or so. No brainer at that point, but how they paid that much for it is beyond me considering the work it needs. Oh well! He has a Subaru now he loves.
 
My buddy ultimately ended up trading it in for some over inflated price, like 16-18K or so. No brainer at that point, but how they paid that much for it is beyond me considering the work it needs. Oh well! He has a Subaru now he loves.

That's because the dealer will likely do absolutely nothing and flip it on some unsuspecting poor sucker, looking for reliable transportation.
 
Imagine somebody paying $20K for this truck “as-is” and then 2 months down the line finding out it needs a $10K engine.
 
Would a set of spark plugs help? And why buy a new engine if the current one still run? Dealership will sell you unneeded services and do imaginarily inspection to upscale craps.
 
Maybe The Car Care Nut is right about the 10k OCI. ;)
He’s neither wrong nor right on 10k OCI. But I would never subject a truck, especially 4WD with or without mods, to 10k OCI. Unless it is 2WD fleet vehicle being driven gently a lot, 10k OCI is meant for appliance boxes vehicle and not trucks, Suv, or large sedans. The oil capacity is way too small to go that long and expect 300k life out of engines.
 
Either way the outcome will be the same. Nobody is going to touch the engine and some unlucky person will end up owning this vehicle.
This is the reason I don’t buy used vehicles. I just can’t detect well-hidden issues. My buddy said my car drive so rough but I don’t feel anything wrong. It is mechanically sound, just with extra 3 psi in the tires because we use the Fit to haul 4 people and gears on weekend so thr extra tire pressure helps.
 
Doggone near every manufacturer is having some kind of issue with something in the engine or transmission these days. All a guy can do is take care of the maintenance as good as you can and hope you don’t get a lemon.
 
Another thing is the internet overblowing some of those issues. 1.6l Ford EcoBoosts have a TSB about blowing head gaskets. It is an issue but not nearly as widespread as one would think. I have one with 105000 miles on it and UOA shows no glycol in the oil. 2.7 EcoBoost had some valve guide issues in 2016. I have one and haven’t had any problems in 85,000 miles. Sometimes you have to take the internet with a grain of salt. Best to talk to a good mechanic and ask if they have seen any problems.
 
Tesla’s plan is to be battery service provider in near futures. No way their battery lasts 300k miles.
 
Another thing is the internet overblowing some of those issues. 1.6l Ford EcoBoosts have a TSB about blowing head gaskets. It is an issue but not nearly as widespread as one would think. I have one with 105000 miles on it and UOA shows no glycol in the oil. 2.7 EcoBoost had some valve guide issues in 2016. I have one and haven’t had any problems in 85,000 miles. Sometimes you have to take the internet with a grain of salt. Best to talk to a good mechanic and ask if they have seen any problems.
Can you post some internal metrics to better shed light on your position?
 
Tesla’s plan is to be battery service provider in near futures. No way their battery lasts 300k miles.
Im seeing Tesla own metrics posting a 12% degradation on their model s/x packs. It be nice to see more granular data on their model 3/ys.

Toyota warranty which i assume is part of a more conservative figure is 8yr /150k miles where battery should be able to output 70%.
 
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