2018 6.2 Chev gasoline engine failure

[BrendanC]

My point is I probably see more GM vehicles in a week than you have owned over the years

i maintain a fleet of about 100 GM vehicles. i’ve only ever replaced one set of oil cooler hoses. my set made it 22 years on my truck before i changed them because the aluminum tubing cracked.

 

[4WD]

My point is I probably see more GM vehicles in a week than you have owned over the years

I get what you don’t … Later …

 

[mattd]

i maintain a fleet of about 100 GM vehicles. i’ve only ever replaced one set of oil cooler hoses. my set made it 22 years on my truck before i changed them because the aluminum tubing cracked.

Don’t have an answer for you there. At least 30-40% of the vehicles I see (fleet of impalas, Tahoe’s , and express heavy duty vans) they have all been replaced or are leaking.

Not here to argue. Just sharing my experience

 

[mattd]

I get what you don’t … Later …

Just sharing my experience. Fortunately for you you do not experience that problem.

 

[Donald]

My son (23) owns a 2018 Chevy with the 6.2 Gasoline engine.

At 144,000 kilometers, or about 90,000 miles it started acting up on his way to work one morning.

Initial testing was showing 1 engine code, misfire in cylinder 1 due to bad air fuel mix.

Apparently the engine is supposed to use premium fuel, but he's been running regular, and it wasn't throwing any engine codes so he thought it was fine. he doesn't drive it aggressively. At .22 c / liter difference (.83 / US gallon) I don't blame him for trying to save a bit on fuel ups.

They said 0 compression on cylinder 1

Going to open the engine at Chev dealer on Tuesday.

Going to see what his options are, if there is only a failed valve or lifter or what happens with these engines.
They use the AFM system to de-rate cylinders for improved fuel economy.

I have never pulled oil analysis.
He always changes his oil every 8000 kilometers

Wondering if there's any point in pulling an oil sample before they tear into it.

With 0 compression its likely got fuel dilution.
its hard to pull a representative sample from the dipstick without running the engine, & hate to start it up and do more damage.

Anyone know if any mods can be done to the engine to make it safe to burn regular fuel?

I am a Ford owner, and don't know much about Chevy issues.
He is ready to buy a Ford, but I tell him they all have problems.

So what does the owners manual say about premium gas? Recommend or required. I would guess recommend. The ECM when it detects knocking will retard the timing to compensate for lower octane fuel. You will never really notice that adjustment.

But if the owners manual says required then no excuse for not following the manual and using premium.

But I would guess a problem with badly burned valve or broken valve spring. Hole in piston.

 

[OVERKILL]

So what does the owners manual say about premium gas? Recommend or required. I would guess recommend. The ECM when it detects knocking will retard the timing to compensate for lower octane fuel. You will never really notice that adjustment.

But if the owners manual says required then no excuse for not following the manual and using premium.

But I would guess a problem with badly burned valve or broken valve spring. Hole in piston.

The Denali we recently rented recommended (not required) premium. My SRT on the other hand, requires premium, and when I was sold regular as premium, it pinged so badly it scared me and I had to dilute it with Ultra 94 to get it to stop.

 

[4WD]

your 07 is not DI. DI began in 2014 with the body change.

Just talked to one of our engineers - 2015 5.3L at 190k trouble free. The AFM is still active on M1 0W20 …
No other issues either …

 

[BrendanC]

Just talked to one of our engineers - 2015 5.3L at 190k trouble free. The AFM is still active on M1 0W20 …
No other issues either …

we have yet to see an AFM issue in our fleet. i know we have a large quantity of 5.3L trucks ranging from 14’-24’. they were fed dealer 0w-20 up until i took over maintenance in 21’

 

[BC1]

$748 Replace vacuum pump ??? What is this for? Does it contribute to the AFM cylinder deactivation?

That vacuum pump is for the brake booster, needed during AFM activation for vacuum. It can be bypassed. Remove the belt and run a tee fitting and some hose to the booster off the PCV line for about $10 and 15 minutes. If you want to remove the pump totally, they sell plugs for the oil holes. Few videos on youtube. I did this last year when my nephew's 6.2 ate its lifters and I did his AFM delete.

 

[Cheetah-kins]

A 6 year old (very expensive) vehicle with 90K miles has this happen to it, with a repair bill that high? I'd be done with that brand forever. That's ridiculous.

 

[ZX11Rebel]

Well, You will be walking then. Every brand out there has their problems

 

[That John dude]

Never had one leak - guess that’s the perspective difference between a lifetime GM owner vs a GM mechanic …

Mine were leaking (both oil, transmission) 99.5k miles, and I replaced both. I see them leaking all the time especially oil cooler lines. I quote them quite often.

 

[Cheetah-kins]

Well, You will be walking then. Every brand out there has their problems

Well I haven't had to walk yet so I guess I must not have bought the 'every brand' of vehicles you're talking about. A 6 year old truck that has a $15K engine failure is not a minor issue, it's a major catastrophe, imo. It's not something I would just accept because 'they all have problems'.

 

[Brons2]

How much does the DI increase the degree of difficulty on these trucks for a DIY cam and lifter replacement? On a GenIII/GenIV it's a pretty straightforward job, I won't say easy because a lot of stuff has to come out, but I would say possible for a DIYer who's done engine internals in the past and has a decent set of tools.

 

[LDM]

My 2018 had the oil lines leaking about 6 months after I bought it. Replaced under warranty. Had it done the same time I had the TSB for the 8 speed transmission done as mine was doing the hard 1-2 shift when cold.

 

[BC1]

How much does the DI increase the degree of difficulty on these trucks for a DIY cam and lifter replacement? On a GenIII/GenIV it's a pretty straightforward job, I won't say easy because a lot of stuff has to come out, but I would say possible for a DIYer who's done engine internals in the past and has a decent set of tools.

I have only done the one 2014 6.2, never touched a LS/LT motor prior so I cant compare to the others. Only real differences from any other head/cam swap were under the valley plate. There are a couple metal fuel lines and the high pressure pump/lifter it rides on. I left the DI rails and injectors in the heads when taking them off and on. Nothing was complicated or required special tools.

 

[clinebarger]

I seen an ad for a drop in for about $8000 CAD. Maybe they aren't completely remanufactured at this price. What is the price tag on a new engine for a 2018? What are the difference between L86, L87 engine?

19431953 is a NEW GM/Chevrolet Performance LT1 crate engine, $9,700 USD.

You would need a L86 AFM delete cam, Lifters, Trays, Head Bolts, Head Gaskets & plug the 8 AFM lifter feed holes.

Use the Intake, Oil Pan, Balancer, & Water Pump of the old L86. Remove the block pugs & the vacuum pump can be installed.

The LT1 is identical in every other way.

 

[clinebarger]

Also would require tuning to disable the AFM.

L86 engines are in extreme high demand with no NEW options making used engine sell in the $6,000 range with a pretty substantial core charge.

Summit Racing has ONE in stock at their Arlington, Texas warehouse, I know where a couple more are at dealers. Pretty soon that stock will get exhausted.

 

[cdlamb]

He got it out of the shop. Total was around $8800 cad, which is still high.
If it would have needed cam replacement add another $6000.

But I am not sure if they done oil change.

I called them to ask if it's something that should be done with tip end engine work.

I need to show him how to do brake job and tire rotations he's been lacking on.

I will probably make sure his oil is changed too.

Might even collect a sample for analysis.

Don't see many oil analysis in the forum on the 6.2 gas.

 

[cdlamb]

They replaced his lifters, claiming it was a failed lifter.

They sent some of the parts home, I don't physically see any issues with the lifters, all the rollers are intact.
They didn't send the valve lifter springs.


My hypothesis:
He drives it for best fuel economy and doesn't put his foot into the pedal. Drives it like an "old lady"
This is a direct injection engine.

I think he had severe valve coking, & maybe burning regular fuel contributes to this, I don't know.
With the valve coking, I believe a buildup broke loose and got stuck in the exhaust valve!

Or maybe it was only a broken valve lifter spring.

Is there any history of this happening?

What brand oil does everyone find working best in these engines?
Is a catch can a good add on to this engine?