Going back to Castrol for at least a few interval @6K miles
would be nice for Iron and Silver to drop
would be nice for Iron and Silver to drop
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I disagree. To say that Redline is "cleaning up" previous stuff is to infer that the previous oil was incapable of doing it's job. Not one of these oils he's used is a cheap lube; they are all essentially high-end premium lubes. So which ones of these do you consider to be leaving stuff behind? How do you know it was the Amsoil and not one of the other brands? Just because Fe is high, it is your presumption that the oil is "cleaning up" previous Fe and not simply having a higher wear rate? Under your presumption, did the Amsoil clean up from the Castrol? Did the dealer fill at 20k miles clean up from the previous OCI? Your logic is flawed.Iron went up because the Redline is trying to clean up the previous oci. It's common and if you look into it, you will see others have spoken about this.
I disagree. To say that Redline is "cleaning up" previous stuff is to infer that the previous oil was incapable of doing it's job. Not one of these oils he's used is a cheap lube; they are all essentially high-end premium lubes. So which ones of these do you consider to be leaving stuff behind? How do you know it was the Amsoil and not one of the other brands? Just because Fe is high, it is your presumption that the oil is "cleaning up" previous Fe and not simply having a higher wear rate? Under your presumption, did the Amsoil clean up from the Castrol? Did the dealer fill at 20k miles clean up from the previous OCI? Your logic is flawed.
I will make an emphasis here ...
THERE IS NOWHERE ENOUGH DATA TO CONCLUDE THAT ANY OIL IS BETTER THAN ANOTHER IN THIS UOA SERIES. There is zero ability (and I mean zilch, nada, zippo) credibility to any claim that one oil is doing the job superior to another. Data sets of sample size "1" are nothing but anecdotal evidence and are a testimony to one's ignorance of how "normal" variation occurs.
Iron went up because the Redline is trying to clean up the previous oci. It's common and if you look into it, you will see others have spoken about this.
Ridiculous assumption as others have basically inferred. It seems you're trying to defend the Redline's performance.Iron went up because the Redline is trying to clean up the previous oci. It's common and if you look into it, you will see others have spoken about this.
I'm trying to find some logic in that statement and I can't, especially with prior history and UOA availableIron went up because the Redline is trying to clean up the previous oci. It's common and if you look into it, you will see others have spoken about this.
Well said. Don’t know why people just spew random things like it’s a factI disagree. To say that Redline is "cleaning up" previous stuff is to infer that the previous oil was incapable of doing it's job. Not one of these oils he's used is a cheap lube; they are all essentially high-end premium lubes. So which ones of these do you consider to be leaving stuff behind? How do you know it was the Amsoil and not one of the other brands? Just because Fe is high, it is your presumption that the oil is "cleaning up" previous Fe and not simply having a higher wear rate? Under your presumption, did the Amsoil clean up from the Castrol? Did the dealer fill at 20k miles clean up from the previous OCI? Your logic is flawed.
I will make an emphasis here ...
THERE IS NOWHERE ENOUGH DATA TO CONCLUDE THAT ANY OIL IS BETTER THAN ANOTHER IN THIS UOA SERIES. There is zero ability (and I mean zilch, nada, zippo) credibility to any claim that one oil is doing the job superior to another. Data sets of sample size "1" are nothing but anecdotal evidence and are a testimony to one's ignorance of how "normal" variation occurs.
id agree with you if LM didn't have silver @ 17!!! and with the shortest intervalThank you for posting your UOA. I am impressed with how Liqui Moly 5W-40 performed, but I am even more impressed with Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40 because it sheared less than a 5W-40. It's really good oil, I run it in my Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L GDI engine. The boutique oils didn't do great, though AMSOIL did better considering the amount of fuel dilution. I judge the fuel dilution by the flashpoint, as Blackstone doesn't measure it, they just infer it by ... the flashpoint, and it's a guestimate at best.
RedLine was supposed to be tough as nails and made exactly to stand up to high heat and shearing. The way it presents itself, not so much.
Looks like you found your oil, as Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is a heck of an oil. Keep using it, as it performs well in your twin-turbo V6. Nice ride by the way!
Following this logic, you should have have stuck to dealer bulk, which I assume is 0W-20, the recommended viscosity for your engine according to the owner's manual.id agree with you if LM didn't have silver @ 17!!! and with the shortest interval
Schaeffer's 0W-40 is not an ACEA A3/B4 class motor oil, but rather similar to AMASOIL SS 0W-40 and PUP 0W-40. It's a mid-SAPS 0W-40, but without any of the European approvals that have stringent requirements. If you want something comparable and mid-SAPS in 0W-40 viscosity, then Mobil 1 ESP X3 0W-40 might be more appropriate. Anyway, good luck.Running Castrol this time, and just ordered Schaeffer supreme 9000 0w-40 for next time
And yet... While you're praising @dnewton3 for his statement, you're doing exactly what he recommended against by comparing vastly different motor oils and drawing conclusions based on a cheap UOA.said. Don’t know why people just spew random things like it’s a fact
Manual gives few options for Oil, 0-30. through 5w-40. if was driving like my mom id stick with 0w-20 because that weight prioritizes fuel econ. you can see that Iron and Copper were the highest with that oil with shortest interval.Following this logic, you should have have stuck to dealer bulk, which I assume is 0W-20, the recommended viscosity for your engine according to the owner's manual.
Schaeffer's 0W-40 is not an ACEA A3/B4 class motor oil, but rather similar to AMASOIL SS 0W-40 and PUP 0W-40. It's a mid-SAPS 0W-40, but without any of the European approvals that have stringent requirements. If you want something comparable and mid-SAPS in 0W-40 viscosity, then Mobil 1 ESP X3 0W-40 might be more appropriate. Anyway, good luck.
And yet... While you're praising @dnewton3 for his statement, you're doing exactly what he recommended against by comparing vastly different motor oils and drawing conclusions based on a cheap UOA.
It's one thing to compare viscosity retention, as I did, and infer wear from the UOA, as you did. Unless you perform comprehensive teardowns at given intervals, you won't have accurate wear results. To do a meaningful wear comparison, you have to run the same lubricant for several hundreds of thousand of miles, tear the engine down, take measurements, then start from scratch with a different lubricant.
Could you please post a picture of the RedLine 0W-40 container if you still have it, along with a picture of the date code? When did you purchase it? The additive package looks exceedingly weird for RedLine. I know they are reformulating their motor oils, but they haven't updated their website yet with the typical properties for the new formulations. I somewhat doubt they would take such a drastic departure from the lubes they sold for years. Then again, you never know.
No, it doesn't. Also, there are several types of 0W-20, with the API SP Dexos 1G2 approved lubes probably being the least desirable for your engine. Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol EDGE Euro C5 0W-20 (hard to find in the US), Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 (MB 229.71 approved and ACEA C5 compliant) are all great options. In fact, Castrol EDGE Euro C5 and EDGE EP are most likely one and the same.Manual gives few options for Oil, 0-30. through 5w-40.
Once again, Schaeffer's is basically aimed at Dodge/RAM customers and carries the same Chrysler MS "approvals" as PUP 0W-40. It has a NOACK of around 12%. This oil is not formulated for Turbo GDI engines. However, it is your engine, so do what you please with it.I'll Run Schaeffer's for 5K and see how it wears, i had pretty good results with it on my VQ37(i know NA vs turbo). all 4 latest were same same oil. trade the car in with 133K miles, and it ran like the first day
you were close, but what you said only applies to the MB 2.0 4 cylinder, not VR30, if anything one can look at the requirements for GTR VR38 to get the appropriate oil.No, it doesn't. Also, there are several types of 0W-20, with the API SP Dexos 1G2 approved lubes probably being the least desirable for your engine. Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20, Castrol EDGE Euro C5 0W-20 (hard to find in the US), Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 (MB 229.71 approved and ACEA C5 compliant) are all great options. In fact, Castrol EDGE Euro C5 and EDGE EP are most likely one and the same.
Anyway, if you want some strong candidates that are properly rated, this should be your shortlist. I'm sorry for any that I missed:
Either way, NISSAN is very clear on the VR30DDTT when it comes to the recommended lubricant:
- Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40 - you already used this one and it held its viscosity well
- Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 - it's like the Mobil1 FS 0W-40 but holds up better in a turbo
- Pennzoil Platinum Euro/Quaker State Euro 5W-40 (API SP, it's essentially rebranded Shell Helix Ultra SP)
- Motul 8100 XCess 5W-40
- Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30
- Mobil 1 ESP X3 0W-40
- Valvoline XL-III 5W-30
Indeed, they allow several viscosities carrying the MB229.5 approval for their Daimler sourced 2.0L turbo engine. If it was my engine, under warranty, I'd just run an MB229.71 approved 0W-20. And if I was driving it really hard or taking it to the track, then an MB229.5 5W-40 should fit the bill nicely. There is no reason to overspend on lube. Both of these lubricants can be had for exceedingly decent prices.
- Genuine “Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 SN” is recommended.
- If the above motor oil is not available, use an equivalent motor oil that matches the above grade and viscosity. For additional information, see “Engine oil and oil filter recommendation” (P.10-8).
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Once again, Schaeffer's is basically aimed at Dodge/RAM customers and carries the same Chrysler MS "approvals" as PUP 0W-40. It has a NOACK of around 12%. This oil is not formulated for Turbo GDI engines. However, it is your engine, so do what you please with it.
There it goes again.Manual gives few options for Oil, 0-30. through 5w-40. if was driving like my mom id stick with 0w-20 because that weight prioritizes fuel econ. you can see that Iron and Copper were the highest with that oil with shortest interval.
I'll Run Schaeffer's for 5K and see how it wears, i had pretty good results with it on my VQ37(i know NA vs turbo). all 4 latest were same same oil. trade the car in with 133K miles, and it ran like the first day
I made my share of mistakes and wrong assumptions. My interest in lubricants stems from wanting to do better maintenance on our vehicles so they last longer. Given the past and current economic situation, I want to get everything I can out of them. The only way to learn was to read past threads that longtime, established members of this forum participated in over the years.There it goes again.
And again, it's not about the oil no matter what you think you're teasing out of a $30 spectrographic analysis.
Sir, you may want to re-read my comments again. I posted that screenshot straight from the 2018 Q50 owner's manual, along with a shortlist of excellent and highly available lubricants. The GTR VR38 specifies Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 for street use and Motul NISMO Competition type 2193E 5W40 for track use. Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and 5W-40 would be excellent choices. Once again, the manufacturer recommends only 0W-20 for your engine, with a wider range of options for the Daimler-Benz sourced 2.0T engine.you were close, but what you said only applies to the MB 2.0 4 cylinder, not VR30, if anything one can look at the requirements for GTR VR38 to get the appropriate oil.
the $12 something one per quartIs this the professional or high performance series?