2017 Mazda CX-5 - Thoughts on using Mobil 1 AFE

[pvq]

Greetings All,

I just took delivery of a 2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD with the 2.5L Skyactiv engine. I purchased this one, and hope to drive it until the wheels fall off and so plan to do my own oil changes (which I have not been doing lately on leased vehicles I've been driving). I've read nearly every thread I could find on the topic of oil and the Skyactiv engine and have come to the conclusion that I will be well served by using Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE along with the factory filter and oil change intervals to be determined by the "flexible" setting on Mazda vehicles.

I am a long time fan of Mobil 1. In fact its the only synthetic oil I've ever purchased (the fact that its available at Costco is a huge bonus). I am aware of the fact that Mazda recommends Castrol, and also aware that Mazda markets their own brand of high moly oil, though there seems to be some question about whether or not Mazda continues to (or will continue to) sell or recommend high moly oil. Its my impression that Mobil 1 contains more PAO base oils and in my mind that makes it superior to other synthetics.

With the understanding that there are a million differing opinions out there, and this topic has been beaten to death 1000 times over, I'm putting this out there for the most up to date thoughts and opinions that anyone might wish to share. Thank you in advance for your replies.

 

[Blinker]

Simply put, use it if the specs match your engine.

 

[Astro14]

I think Mobil 1 is a great choice.

 

[alarmguy]

The engine calls for 0w20 and that is what you are using.
Everything is fine. Doesnt matter what brand, it could be Walmart super tech, the engine will last longer then the car and if it doesnt last longer, it wasnt the oil, it was a defect or design of the engine.

You would faint if I told you what I run in our 2012 Skyactive and now at almost 60,000 miles never needed a repair or warranty work done, NEVER ever needs a drop of makeup oil.
Not bad for what I think was the first production year of the highest compression mass produced engine in the world. )

Its not that I am cheap, I just dont fall for marketing [censored] and I pay around $2.00 a quart for the oil I use. As long as it has the right API on the bottle, your good to go. No magic in oil, only profits and feel good feelings about buying an oil UNLESS PROVEN otherwise by the company selling you the high profit item.

BTW, good luck with the car, we have turned into "Mazda" fans. So impressed with the car, exceeded every expectation and chances are another Mazda will be in the distant future. Its unique and a breath of fresh air among all the cars, something a little different where all others feel the same ... ya da ya da... *L*

 

[demarpaint]

I used AFE 0W20 and 0W30 for a few years, I think it is a fine oil.

 

[pvq]

Originally Posted By: alarmguy
BTW, good luck with the car, we have turned into "Mazda" fans. So impressed with the car, exceeded every expectation and chances are another Mazda will be in the distant future. Its unique and a breath of fresh air among all the cars, something a little different where all others feel the same ... ya da ya da... *L*


Thank you! I think this car has made mine a Mazda family as well. I was in search of an AWD vehicle that was as fun to drive as my 1989 VW Jetta and did an extensive amount of research before I settled on Mazda. I LOVE VW's, but IMHO their long term reliability and expense to own made them a non-starter for a purchase. Frankly I'm afraid to own a new VW out of warranty. The driving dynamics of the CX-5 are outstanding for a CUV. Coming off a Hyundai I feel like I'm driving a sports car!

 

[KrisZ]

With DI engine I would keep the OCI to 5k miles. I would not worry about oil brand.

Other than that, if the place where you live uses salt on the roads during winter, I would look into rustproofing that Mazda. Otherwise the wheels may fall off of it sooner that you think.

 

[pvq]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
if the place where you live uses salt on the roads during winter, I would look into rustproofing that Mazda. Otherwise the wheels may fall off of it sooner that you think.


I've seen a few comments on the internet that Mazdas have rusting issues which I find completely shocking. I pretty much though corrosion issues on all cars were a thing of the past, assuming of course at least a reasonable level of owner care. I didn't think rustproofing was even offered anymore?

 

[Bud]

I would say use it. That is what I use in my Pilot. And you are right about the Costco sales. Get a six pack on sale and combine it with the Mobil rebate and the oil ends up being dirt cheap at about 2.50 per quart.

 

[khittner]

Originally Posted By: pvq
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
if the place where you live uses salt on the roads during winter, I would look into rustproofing that Mazda. Otherwise the wheels may fall off of it sooner that you think.


I've seen a few comments on the internet that Mazdas have rusting issues which I find completely shocking. I pretty much though corrosion issues on all cars were a thing of the past, assuming of course at least a reasonable level of owner care. I didn't think rustproofing was even offered anymore?


If you're upstate, within an hour or two of the Canadian border, the oil that you really want to use on & in your new Mazda is Krown rustproofing. I've got a 15yr. old Camry and a 22yr old Dodge Dakota, both over 200K miles on a variety of engine lubes, but rust-free bodies and frames with Krown resprays happening 1x/yr. The stuff works, even in rustbelt Michigan. You have to go to Canada to get it done, and you have to live with some dripping on your driveway or garage floor for a couple of weeks after each respray. Keep your Mazda treated with Krown, and then you can legitimately worry about which engine oils and ATFs will get you to 300K miles.

 

[thunderfog]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
With DI engine I would keep the OCI to 5k miles. I would not worry about oil brand.


^^ This.

We do 5-5.5k mile OCI, and I use QSUD as seen in the sig. Love our CX-5, and that 2.5L is a great engine.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Unless you run NIPPON OIL it may not make it.

 

[PimTac]

AFE is a great choice. As for the rusting issue, that was many moons ago. Since you are in the salted roads region of the US, a good rinse is preventive. You didn't mention what kind of driving this car will see. Highway/city. These engines want to run so if you short trip some make sure to take the long way now and then.


Congrats on a excellent choice of vehicles.

 

[turboseize]

Originally Posted By: khittner
Originally Posted By: pvq
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
if the place where you live uses salt on the roads during winter, I would look into rustproofing that Mazda. Otherwise the wheels may fall off of it sooner that you think.


I've seen a few comments on the internet that Mazdas have rusting issues which I find completely shocking. I pretty much though corrosion issues on all cars were a thing of the past, assuming of course at least a reasonable level of owner care. I didn't think rustproofing was even offered anymore?


If you're upstate, within an hour or two of the Canadian border, the oil that you really want to use on & in your new Mazda is Krown rustproofing. I've got a 15yr. old Camry and a 22yr old Dodge Dakota, both over 200K miles on a variety of engine lubes, but rust-free bodies and frames with Krown resprays happening 1x/yr. The stuff works, even in rustbelt Michigan. You have to go to Canada to get it done, and you have to live with some dripping on your driveway or garage floor for a couple of weeks after each respray. Keep your Mazda treated with Krown, and then you can legitimately worry about which engine oils and ATFs will get you to 300K miles.



^ this.

I do not know about Krown in partcular, but I have had enough classic cars that I know what a difference such a rust-proofing treatment makes.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Mazda's own branded motor oil in 0w20 uses a large amount of moly, and has a much better VI. Maybe friction is less in that one? They use 700 ppm moly, while M1 AFE is at 60 ppm, a big difference. Same 60 ppm in M1 EP 0w20 too. Should be comparable anyway regardless of big differences in moly and VI. Good enough.

Also noticing Mazda's own oil has about 4 times as much boron as Mobil1 AFE too. I'm assuming Mazda knows something here.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Mazda's own branded motor oil in 0w20 uses a large amount of moly, and has a much better VI. Maybe friction is less in that one? They use 700 ppm moly, while M1 AFE is at 60 ppm, a big difference. Same 60 ppm in M1 EP 0w20 too. Should be comparable anyway regardless of big differences in moly and VI. Good enough.


However the Moly in M1 0-20 is superior to Mazda's oil. It's called Tri-Nuclear, which requires much less than regular Moly. Like I'm a chemist! LOL! With that said, I have used M1 0-20AFE for years and my engines still show no sign of engine wear, and remain very clean, at 10K OCIs.

 

[PimTac]

Are there test results somewhere that show superiority? As far as I can tell it's just another form of the substance.

 

[PimTac]

The difference in the moly numbers between the M1 and the Idemitsu is due to the fact they each use different forms of moly. It's not a straight across comparison.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted By: PimTac
The difference in the moly numbers between the M1 and the Idemitsu is due to the fact they each use different forms of moly. It's not a straight across comparison.

There really is a big diff between 700 ppm and 60 ppm, trinuclear or not. Trinuclear is effective about twice as effective as the di- moly. The Mazda Genuine Motor Oil's high moly also helps wear during initial cold operation.... well, Mazda-Idemitsu states what they have found:

 

[PimTac]

Okay I see what you are getting at. The Mazda oil is excellent btw. It's not as easy to get as say the M1 or any other major brand. For those who change out their FF early like me, this would be the top choice for that refill as you keep the higher level of moly in the engine during break in.