2017 Honda CR-V Air Conditioner not working

check the battery connections first

we have '16 model and my wife is merciless on AC unit on that car, honestly no issues with its AC unit; we run it at 95K from the day one, very solid vehicle

older models are known about issues with AC unit, basically beyond the repair; its called Honda CRV, AC Black Death, check it out online but I don't think that your model is affected by it; its likely something else in your case; btw, in my workplace there some of your models and people generally don't have problems with that model
 
Modern cars' AC systems are computer controlled. There are numerous inputs into the climate control module (CCM). The engine computer needs to tell the CCM that it's ok to to engage the compressor clutch. There is at least one temperature sensor in the evaporator. If it's telling the CCM that the evap temp is below a specific temp the CCM won't engage the clutch. Also, there's an external ambient air sensor. If it's telling the CCM that the outside air temp is lower than the cabin temp the CCM will likely bot engage the clutch. Lastly, there's a cabin temperature sensor somewhere in the car. Some have this sensor in CCM. If that is telling the CCM that the cabin temp is lower than the CCM temp setting the CCM won't engage the clutch.
The first step is to get high and low pressure readings on the refrigerant. If those are ok, then have the CCM scanned for issues.
 
Check for a broken wire in the harness near the pressure switch plug.

Compressors sometimes leak on those too.

Now the LOW tire pressure warning is in the display.................all tires at 34...................criminy.
Indirect TPMS, it's a pain. You need to do a TPMS calibrate.
 
Usually when it’s got a leak and low on refrigerant it won’t kick on.
Yes, check the pressures first. Low pressure switch will prevent compressor from kicking in. Problem is you need to gauges for this unless you can borrow them from AutoZone or another store.

If it's low, charge it if you are fine with having it leak out again just to get by but you are eyeballing refrigerant amounts at this point.

I would recommend UV dye to find the source of the leak. Replace the defective part, and then properly refill the system, (with the correct oil if replacing condenser or compressor) and correct amount of refrigerant. You'll need a small scale and vacuum pump to do this. HVAC is a PITA regardless if it's on a car or home.
 
More info here:


TPMS Calibrate seems to be holding.
Anytime you rotate the tires, replace the tires or even adjust the pressure, you must do a TPMS calibrate on those cars. Also, it will go into full freakout mode if you ever install the spare.
 
Check or replace the AC relay likely under hood fuse box as first simple step.
I just did the same on my 2008 CR-V. A/C not working at all so just to test, I swapped a couple of the same relay and it works fine. Stopping at the Honda dealer to get a new relay tonight. Saw a couple of good videos on youtube that gave pretty good info as the owner's manual leaves a little bit to be desired. Always start with the easiest, cheapest thing and if it doesn't work at least not more than a few dollars was spent.
 
Check for a broken wire in the harness near the pressure switch plug.
Holy ****.

Nailed it.

I don't have have the tools to diagnose, but with careful examination, yep broked wire, kind of hidden. Small gray wire.

Will try to fix via soldered in splice.

EDIT: I cannot even get my hand in there to unplug the connector. Very tight. Unsure.

THANKS
 
Last edited:
Holy ****.

Nailed it.

I don't have have the tools to diagnose, but with careful examination, yep broked wire, kind of hidden. Small gray wire.

Will try to fix via soldered in splice.

EDIT: I cannot even get my hand in there to unplug the connector. Very tight. Unsure.

THANKS
I think that section is part of the front-end wire harness, 32130-TLA-A20. But repairing that wire is probably easier.
 
My 2018 Tacoma AC just went out. R1234YF system so it’s expensive.

Turns out the condenser is leaking. $850 to replace. Unacceptable for a 4 year old car, let alone a 4 year old “high quality” Toyota Tacoma. Ended up just recharging hoping it will last another year or two.

If the climate control is showing the AC as being on and the compressor clutch isn’t engaging, it will most likely be low on charge. It’s not common for AC compressors to take a dump.
 
My 2018 Tacoma AC just went out. R1234YF system so it’s expensive.

Turns out the condenser is leaking. $850 to replace. Unacceptable for a 4 year old car, let alone a 4 year old “high quality” Toyota Tacoma. Ended up just recharging hoping it will last another year or two.

If the climate control is showing the AC as being on and the compressor clutch isn’t engaging, it will most likely be low on charge. It’s not common for AC compressors to take a dump.

You're gonna have to keep doing it again. Looks to be a pretty common leak on the (3rd gen 2016+) Tacoma's. Apparently the R1234YF is pretty corrosive and leaks on the condenser is common...

Lovely... As I have a 2021. I also notice my 2014 with the R134A is definitely colder than the 2021... Progression my butt!
 
Check the charge, binary/trinary switch and the clutch before condemning compressor/TXV or the HVAC controller. Honda isn’t known for great AC - they do use Sanden compressors on many of their cars. Which is funny, on classic cars, big rigs/RVs/buses, Sanden seems to be the compressor of choice.
The big round sanden compressors are great. The little ones on Hondas are what not are not so good.
 
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