2017 Highlander brakes

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Howdy folks,

It's time for new pads all the way around on my '17 Highlander XLE 3.5L. It's got OEM pads+rotors (Advics) right now and I couldn't be happier with them. I'm planning on having the rotors machined at O'reilly Auto Parts, but I haven't decided on pads yet. If I go with OEM the pads don't come with hardware so the shims and clips are two separate purchases which inflates the price a bit. I'm curious if any of you have tried alternative pads that perform, bite, and last just as well as the OEM Advics? I figured I'd like at least consider a couple alternatives before buying anything.
 
I've used many sets of Bosch ceramic pads. They are very similiar to OEM pads. Pretty cheap on rockauto. Otherwise Akebono is supposed to be good.
 
You may have answered your own question; OE! :)

IDK if the Akebono come with hardware, mine didn't for our RX. They felt just like OE and no/low dust. Look for ceramic pads that come with the hardware and are a Coefficient of Friction(CoF) of your OE pads, either "EF" or "FF"...if you want the same brake bite.

Also, I am not a fan of turning rotors as this just causes them to warp more quickly. If your rotors aren't warped/pulsing right now, leave'em alone since you're only doing a pad slap.
 
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Howdy folks,

It's time for new pads all the way around on my '17 Highlander XLE 3.5L. It's got OEM pads+rotors (Advics) right now and I couldn't be happier with them. I'm planning on having the rotors machined at O'reilly Auto Parts, but I haven't decided on pads yet. If I go with OEM the pads don't come with hardware so the shims and clips are two separate purchases which inflates the price a bit. I'm curious if any of you have tried alternative pads that perform, bite, and last just as well as the OEM Advics? I figured I'd like at least consider a couple alternatives before buying anything.
You can get Wagner TermoQuiet from O'Reilly, they are good pads. Carquest Platinum pads are also great, low-dust pads.
 
You may have answered your own question; OE! :)

IDK if the Akebono come with hardware, mine didn't for our RX. They felt just like OE and no/low dust. Look for ceramic pads that come with the hardware and are a Coefficient of Friction(CoF) of your OE pads, either "EF" or "FF"...if you want the same brake bite.

Also, I am not a fan of turning rotors as this just causes them to warp more quickly. If your rotors aren't warped/pulsing right now, leave'em alone since you're only doing a pad slap.
Yeah I will probably end up with OE, but just figured I'd poke around to see if there's an equivalent alternative for a better price. Is there an online reference for CoF on various pads? Also, I thought it was best to resurface or replace rotors to provide the best surface for the pads? The OE rotors are pretty beefy and a dealer service department said they can usually machine them 2-4 times before replacing. Not much rust issues in my area.
 
Rotors get stupid hot on these and the Siennas. I usually have to replace the front rotors; a lot of them visible signs of overheating.

The rear rotors usually not need machining. Just replace with new factory pads (not the TCMC, which are the -AZ1xx and AZ2xx). Clips and shim kit can be reused after cleaning.

On the fronts, the factory pads are pretty good. I just did one yesterday with Akebono ProACT (the new copper free formula) and they stopped very well. Toyota recently increased the price of front pads to $100+.
 
Rotors get stupid hot on these and the Siennas. I usually have to replace the front rotors; a lot of them visible signs of overheating.

The rear rotors usually not need machining. Just replace with new factory pads (not the TCMC, which are the -AZ1xx and AZ2xx). Clips and shim kit can be reused after cleaning.

On the fronts, the factory pads are pretty good. I just did one yesterday with Akebono ProACT (the new copper free formula) and they stopped very well. Toyota recently increased the price of front pads to $100+.
I don't see any visible signs of heat issues on mine, but this is the first time I've done brakes on this vehicle. Of the aftermarkets the Akebono ProACT and Wagner OEx line have caught my eye. The CoF is GG on the Wagner, but I can't find the Akebono data. I'm pretty sure the Toyota OE front pads are FG CoF, but I could be wrong.
 
I don't see any visible signs of heat issues on mine, but this is the first time I've done brakes on this vehicle. Of the aftermarkets the Akebono ProACT and Wagner OEx line have caught my eye. The CoF is GG on the Wagner, but I can't find the Akebono data. I'm pretty sure the Toyota OE front pads are FG CoF, but I could be wrong.
I wouldn’t get too fixated on the friction ratings. Those ratings are similar to the tire utqg traction ratings - not all items with the higher ratings will perform better.

OEX’s have a strange shape - I think they are gimmicky. And speaking of shapes, the Akebono are cut very small for the rears…the material is about 1/4-1/3” shorter than the factory pads. So don’t use those to pad slap the rears.

Also many bench mounted brake lathes are either in poor condition or are being operated by inexperienced individuals. I often see excessive runout on resurfaced rotors. If you go this route, make sure you measure the lateral runout after install. It needs to be under .002, ideally under .001. Dealers here use an on-car brake lathe.
 
Rock Auto has the OE Advics rotors for your Highlander. They are US-made at a fair price. Rotors usually aren't worth machining or turning; just replace them. They are low stock right now, so if they run out, you can always get them somewhere else.

For pads, EBC Ultimax "Blackstuff" pads are great! Rock Auto doesn't carry them, but I can vouch for them. The Raybestos EHT pads are very popular on here and are a great price. Of course, there's always Akebono and Advics, too.
 
I've been using OEX on my Tahoe and Equinox. So far, so good. Tahoe braking as improved, noticeable when towing.
I think the ''groove'' pattern is for dust removal and cooling. Two different patterns in the pads used in my fleet.
 
I’d just replace the rotors honestly but that’s just me. OEM pads are never a bad choice I’ve also used all auto parts stores pads before and they are not bad either and usually bring just as much pad life as the others did. The only thing you have to worry about with those is they change manufacturers periodically and probably rather frequently. I like Raybestos best for brakes and Akebono and Wagner and plenty of other brands are good too.
 
Rock Auto has the OE Advics rotors for your Highlander. They are US-made at a fair price. Rotors usually aren't worth machining or turning; just replace them. They are low stock right now, so if they run out, you can always get them somewhere else.

For pads, EBC Ultimax "Blackstuff" pads are great! Rock Auto doesn't carry them, but I can vouch for them. The Raybestos EHT pads are very popular on here and are a great price. Of course, there's always Akebono and Advics, too.
So, funny thing about Rock Auto.. They don't deliver to my zipcode. Something about taxes, but I don't remember to exact reason stated.
 
I wouldn’t get too fixated on the friction ratings. Those ratings are similar to the tire utqg traction ratings - not all items with the higher ratings will perform better.

OEX’s have a strange shape - I think they are gimmicky. And speaking of shapes, the Akebono are cut very small for the rears…the material is about 1/4-1/3” shorter than the factory pads. So don’t use those to pad slap the rears.

Also many bench mounted brake lathes are either in poor condition or are being operated by inexperienced individuals. I often see excessive runout on resurfaced rotors. If you go this route, make sure you measure the lateral runout after install. It needs to be under .002, ideally under .001. Dealers here use an on-car brake lathe.
Thanks for the info regarding brake lathes. To be honest I am a little concerned if the auto parts store will do a good job on machining. My local dealer uses an on-car brake lathe as well.
 
Then get the EBC pads from Auto Anything and the Advics rotors from somewhere else :)
Advics rotors are too expensive if you have to pay shipping.

Parts.Toyota.com is the way to go. Find a dealer within 200 miles that is selling for 25%+ below msrp. The program offers up to a $75 shipping credit so most orders ship free (split them up if needed).
 
Howdy folks,

It's time for new pads all the way around on my '17 Highlander XLE 3.5L. It's got OEM pads+rotors (Advics) right now and I couldn't be happier with them. I'm curious if any of you have tried alternative pads that perform, bite, and last just as well as the OEM Advics? I figured I'd like at least consider a couple alternatives before buying anything.
So far:
Bosch
Akebono
Wagner OEX and Thermoquiet
Carquest Platinum
EBC
Raybestos

C'mon gang, LOL, I'm sure there must be a few more!. Sorry - grumpy today. It's going to be difficult to meet "It's got OEM pads+rotors (Advics) right now and I couldn't be happier with them." FYI, not relevant, but I had the same feeling with my Patriot OEM Akebono brakes and the EBC Ultimax pads and rotors replacements are working just fine.
 
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after being an akenono and Hawk user for years, I’ve moved to raybestos element 3 pads on all mine. Great feel, solid stopping power, consistent tip-in. More dusting than the akebonos, less than the hawks, but it’s grey in color and not rust in color. They match the Lexus quite well, and better than oem on the f150.
 
So, funny thing about Rock Auto.. They don't deliver to my zipcode. Something about taxes, but I don't remember to exact reason stated.
Try again. I think Rockauto just started shipping to Colorado again.
 
Try again. I think Rockauto just started shipping to Colorado again.
Hey you're right! Well this is a pleasant surprise. Thank you for the heads up.

On another note, anyone tried PowerStop rotors/pads? Judging by the price I imagine they're chinese imports, but curious if anyone has ran them?
 
Yeah I will probably end up with OE, but just figured I'd poke around to see if there's an equivalent alternative for a better price. Is there an online reference for CoF on various pads? Also, I thought it was best to resurface or replace rotors to provide the best surface for the pads? The OE rotors are pretty beefy and a dealer service department said they can usually machine them 2-4 times before replacing. Not much rust issues in my area.
I May have a job at O'Reilly delivery parts, don't cut your rotors, please. Many reasons not to do, Google is your friend. Wagner was always a good choice imho, may be biased because the Wagner rep visited the store often and answered questions. One secifically that I remember on their TQ Line i noticed some had metal shims, Answer, some calipers had thin wall pistons that would punch through the TQ material, he knew his stuff
 
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