2016 Dodge Grand Caravan - front brake rotor rusted on

[Number_35]

The title says it all. The vehicle is a high-mileage 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan with around 280K km (175K miles) on it. It belongs to a friend who hopes to fix it up and sell it.

It's parked at present, and needs a fair bit of work, but I think it could be a good vehicle if repaired.

Anyway, it had a flat tire (right front), and locking lug nuts with no key. My friend cut off the locking lug nut with a grinder, sacrificing a wheel stud in the process.

I got involved at this point, removed the caliper and bracket, and knocked out the damaged stud. I haven't tried to install a new stud, but believe it would be much easier without the rotor in place.

I noticed that the brake pads were badly scored, and that the rotor was pretty rough.

So that's the background ...

At this point, we've been unable to remove the rotor. Over the past couple of weeks we've soaked it with penetrating oil and beaten it up with a 2-1/2 lb hammer. Nothing so far.

Is there a puller that could be used to put tension on the rotor while one hammers?

I've just never seen one this bad before.

I'm scared to take a grinder to it, for fear of cutting the hub or knuckle.

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

 

[joekingcorvette]

I am not a brake expert however I have had major problems with brake rotors being "stuck." I leave it to the mechanics to replace them. I know it's not much help but will learn something from others comments.

 

[jhellwig]

Bigger hammer and hit the top of the hat where it sits on the studs. Or cut it with a grinder.

 

[eljefino]

Can't you remove the caliper bracket and throw some chunky nuts & bolts in there to use as jacking screws?

Pro tip, don't go to 11 on the hardware, you can bend the bracket. Put "good" tension on it then whale on the rotor with the hammer some more. It'll change tone, showing that it loosened slightly, and then you put a little "more" on the hardware.

 

[bullwinkle]

Can't you remove the caliper bracket and throw some chunky nuts & bolts in there to use as jacking screws?

Pro tip, don't go to 11 on the hardware, you can bend the bracket. Put "good" tension on it then whale on the rotor with the hammer some more. It'll change tone, showing that it loosened slightly, and then you put a little "more" on the hardware.

That’s how I got the rusty ones off my Ram pickup-a bolt (or two) that could fit through the caliper mounting holes, and nuts that allow pressure to be exerted against the back of the rotor, Crank them up, start inducing vibration with a BFH-it’ll pop off (and fly off like mine did).

 

[atikovi]

and a bfh.

 

[Number_35]

Can't you remove the caliper bracket and throw some chunky nuts & bolts in there to use as jacking screws?

Pro tip, don't go to 11 on the hardware, you can bend the bracket. Put "good" tension on it then whale on the rotor with the hammer some more. It'll change tone, showing that it loosened slightly, and then you put a little "more" on the hardware.

I've seen that method on YouTube, but am a bit afraid of breaking the knuckle.

Your advice is good - some (but not excessive) tension, in conjunction with continued use of the hammer.

I miss the threaded hole some manufacturers used to put in the rotor- it allowed one to thread in a bolt, which exerted force against the hub or knuckle. Popped a few off that way.

 

[Number_35]

and a bfh.

I'll check to see if I can borrow one from PartSource. Is the strap used for safety?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

then the hammer isn't big enough

lower the car until the rotor hits the ground, then raise it again. That should free it!

I hope you're replacing them with coated rotors. Powerstop Geomet coated rotors are awesome. The Geomet coating really helps! Coated rotors are a MUST!

 

[dishdude]

lower the car until the rotor hits the ground, then raise it again. That should free it!

I was thinking this as well. Are you joking or serious? lol

 

[Chris142]

pics of the issue?

 

[atikovi]

I'll check to see if I can borrow one from PartSource. Is the strap used for safety?

I guess. I've never used it.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

I was thinking this as well. Are you joking or serious? lol

I'd try it if nothing else worked and I already spent an hour trying to get it off

 

[ctechbob]

The strap is to keep parts from flying everywhere.

 

[andrew_j]

If the brake works and you are selling a 175k/2016 vehicle it won’t add value to install new brakes…

 

[Jetronic]

I've seen that method on YouTube, but am a bit afraid of breaking the knuckle.

Your advice is good - some (but not excessive) tension, in conjunction with continued use of the hammer.

I miss the threaded hole some manufacturers used to put in the rotor- it allowed one to thread in a bolt, which exerted force against the hub or knuckle. Popped a few off that way.

the threads in those holes are the first to rust away. works on lightly rusted rotors only

 

[ctechbob]

the threads in those holes are the first to rust away. works on lightly rusted rotors only

Yea, there's no way those 2-3 threads of M8x1.25 are going to break loose a seriously stuck rotor.

 

[Snagglefoot]

If you can access an acetylene torch or buy a MAPP/Oxy kit from Canadian Tire ( which are fun to have) you can try applying some heat where the rotor meets the studs.

 

[RAR]

Get a 4 lb hammer at least. The small 2.5 lb hammer isn’t going to cut it if it’s that seized. Or an air hammer.

Using a removal tool is ideal, if you have access to one. I deal with seized on wheels, rotors and wheel bearing hub assemblies so I keep the tools on hand, but it’s not worthwhile to do that for the occasional job.

Barring that, these vans are everywhere, including stacked high in your local salvage yard. A set of knuckles for these isn’t more than $50 per side usually. More than that and the junk man is just gouging. So don’t be too concerned about damaging that knuckle since replacing it isn’t going to break the bank. Much to someone’s amusement here, I work on a few of these enough to keep spare, pre-built knuckles on hand to swap in and make turnaround faster.

If you go the salvage part route, replacing the wheel hub bearing isn’t going to hurt in the long run.

 

[KrisZ]

Hit the edge of the rotor hat, pictured below, a few times, rotate the rotor 90 degrees, repeat. The rust should start to break away eventually.

Get a bigger hammer too, but don’t swing super hard, it’s all about creating a shock on the rotor/hub mating surface.