2015 Honda CRV Transmission and Diff Fluid questions?

[TacoFergie]

2015 CRV AWD with 90k miles, no previous transmission or diff services to my knowledge.

I'm not super well versed with Honda's (previous Toyota tech) and for some reason I'm not finding a lot of info on the web. Is HCF-2 (transmission) and DPSF-2 (diff) the only fluids to use or are there alternatives? Seems like Amsoil CVT is an alternative and is about the same price as HCF-2, I trust both. The diff doesn't appear to have any alternatives that I can find. Also, is there any tips you guys have for these processes? This is to help a church lady that was quoted was nearly $1k for transmission drain/fill and valve cover gasket which I find insane.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

You can use aftermarket CVT fluid with no problems
Honda's CVT fluid is the same color as motor oil, amber in color. Valvoline CVT fluid in the blue bottle is amber. Amalie's CVT fluids are amber (they make the house brands for AAP and Autozone). Lubegard Complete CVT fluid is also amber.

AAP has Fram CVT fluid on clearance for $5.95/qt if your local store still has any in stock. Otherwise, you can get Amalie CVT on eBay for $8.50/qt

I can vouch for the Amalie CVT fluid in an Accord of this era.

As for the DPSF-2, I have no idea, though Eneos has a product specifically for the dual pump Hondas.

 

[The Critic]

When the dealer sells a valve cover reseal, they sell it as a package that includes the spark plugs and valve adjustment. $1k for the transmission drain/refill and VCG/plugs/valve adjust is about right.

 

[TacoFergie]

When the dealer sells a valve cover reseal, they sell it as a package that includes the spark plugs and valve adjustment. $1k for the transmission drain/refill and VCG/plugs/valve adjust is about right.

This was at an independent shop. That line was only $225 for valve cover gasket, so likely not doing the rest as you listed. I did spark plugs on it earlier this year and told her about the valve cover seepage, definitely not leaking bad. But it’s better to do it now before it gets worse. No seepage in the spark plug cavities either.

Does the K24 need valve adjustment periodically? I’ve known many to go well over 200k without it.

 

[I<3oil]

Amsoil and HPL both have coverage for HCF-2. (I have both in the pan right now actually). D/f is super easy. Hardest/longest part is taking the underbody shields off.

Not seen anything for DPSF though.

 

[wlk]

Not sure if the same fluid applies as i dont remember what it spec'd but I use Castrol, think it was, Import Transmax for my wives 18 Civic she had. It was Castrol Transmax, I just don't remember which Import or regular but it said for Honda cvts and worked fine

 

[TacoFergie]

Amsoil and HPL both have coverage for HCF-2. (I have both in the pan right now actually). D/f is super easy. Hardest/longest part is taking the underbody shields off.

Not seen anything for DPSF though.

Sounds like I’m going with Amsoil and Honda DPSF2. I have nothing against HPL, I just have an Amsoil account and can get a few other things while I’m there.

 

[I<3oil]

Sounds like I’m going with Amsoil and Honda DPSF2. I have nothing against HPL, I just have an Amsoil account and can get a few other things while I’m there.

I did the same before. Then I did a decent sized HPL order so I threw some in that too. Otherwise I’d only have one or the other in the pan.

 

[TacoFergie]

I did the same before. Then I did a decent sized HPL order so I threw some in that too. Otherwise I’d only have one or the other in the pan.

I'd like to try HPL, but at the same time I keep OCI's relatively short since we don't typically do a ton of miles. Basically Spring and Fall oil changes usually covers it and early diff fluid changes as well. I know the data is outstanding for HPL, I'm just not comfortable with once a year 10-12k OCI's. Now my bike, I'd be really curious about their motorcycle oil once my 2 OCI's worth of Amsoil is out. Seems I only get about 3k or so mile when I start to notice shifting getting more clunky, but that's better than any other oil I've used.

 

[Clarkbug]

2015 CRV AWD with 90k miles, no previous transmission or diff services to my knowledge.

I'm not super well versed with Honda's (previous Toyota tech) and for some reason I'm not finding a lot of info on the web. Is HCF-2 (transmission) and DPSF-2 (diff) the only fluids to use or are there alternatives? Seems like Amsoil CVT is an alternative and is about the same price as HCF-2, I trust both. The diff doesn't appear to have any alternatives that I can find. Also, is there any tips you guys have for these processes? This is to help a church lady that was quoted was nearly $1k for transmission drain/fill and valve cover gasket which I find insane.

I just did all this stuff on my 2016...

I used OEM Honda fluids just to eliminate a variable for me. I didn't know the history and didn't want any future issues to have me second guessing my choices.

The D/F for the CVT is super simple. Pull the drain plug, then refill, run through the gears and pull the check plug. Get a long funnel and it should be fine.

For the diff it's pretty easy also, the plugs might be pretty tight so you will probably want a breaker bar.

Everything uses aluminum sealing washers, so you may want to pick some of those up if the existing ones are crusty.

The valve cover gasket was a pain just due to the amount of stuff to remove to get it loose. Lots of videos on how to do it. I need to re-do mine I think. I used MotoSeal at the four places listed in the service manual and I dont think it worked for me. Sigh.

 

[TacoFergie]

I just did all this stuff on my 2016...

I used OEM Honda fluids just to eliminate a variable for me. I didn't know the history and didn't want any future issues to have me second guessing my choices.

The D/F for the CVT is super simple. Pull the drain plug, then refill, run through the gears and pull the check plug. Get a long funnel and it should be fine.

For the diff it's pretty easy also, the plugs might be pretty tight so you will probably want a breaker bar.

Everything uses aluminum sealing washers, so you may want to pick some of those up if the existing ones are crusty.

The valve cover gasket was a pain just due to the amount of stuff to remove to get it loose. Lots of videos on how to do it. I need to re-do mine I think. I used MotoSeal at the four places listed in the service manual and I dont think it worked for me. Sigh.

Thank you for the tips!!

I wished my Subaru Ascent CVT D/F was as simple and cheap. The CVT high torque fluid is only availbe through dealers at $400 for 5 gallons. No aftermarket fluid exisits yet for the TR690 and its been out for nearly 8 years.

 

[martinq]

Thank you for the tips!!

I wished my Subaru Ascent CVT D/F was as simple and cheap. The CVT high torque fluid is only availbe through dealers at $400 for 5 gallons. No aftermarket fluid exisits yet for the TR690 and its been out for nearly 8 years.

There are plenty of affordable CVT fluids on the market for Subaru so there is no need to pay huge markup. The same goes for just about every other OEM like Nissan, Honda, Toyota or JATCO, Aisin, ZF, etc. Your CVT is not special despite what the mfg may lead you to believe. On the other hand the OEM pricing of fluids is very special.

 

[Cressida]

Does the K24 need valve adjustment periodically? I’ve known many to go well over 200k without it.

I elected to check mine at ~110k miles and made some adjustments while I was in there working on the actuator / cam phaser (trying to eliminate the cold start rattle). I don't know if I helped anything or not.

What I can tell you is that it's surprisingly more challenging to make or get the adjustments correct than one might think. The back side is really tuff to see so I was using a mirror, but it's most being done just by feel. I elected to go back in a second time a month after the first time. The second time I triple checked them all but still wonder what or if I missed something cause I get a clicking noise on start up now. It goes away after the car is up to temp. and I was setting the valve lash toward the minimums on all of them.

If I was advising I would say to write down each one before any adjustments, and know why you are wanting to make an adjustment on each one. Again, it seems to be common for DIY's to do the work and still not get the outcome you wanted.

 

[The Critic]

This was at an independent shop. That line was only $225 for valve cover gasket, so likely not doing the rest as you listed. I did spark plugs on it earlier this year and told her about the valve cover seepage, definitely not leaking bad. But it’s better to do it now before it gets worse. No seepage in the spark plug cavities either.

Does the K24 need valve adjustment periodically? I’ve known many to go well over 200k without it.

It should be done, but you'll probably get away with not doing it.

You'll probably find a few exhaust valves tight.

 

[TacoFergie]

There are plenty of affordable CVT fluids on the market for Subaru so there is no need to pay huge markup. The same goes for just about every other OEM like Nissan, Honda, Toyota or JATCO, Aisin, ZF, etc. Your CVT is not special despite what the mfg may lead you to believe. On the other hand the OEM pricing of fluids is very special.

I believe we've discussed this before. As of right now there is no CVTF-LV aftermarket alternative that I'm aware of. There are some fluids that say they're compatible, but nobody that I'm aware of has tried them in the TR690. I don't want to be the guinea pig for that either at $10k for a replacement....

 

[TacoFergie]

I elected to check mine at ~110k miles and made some adjustments while I was in there working on the actuator / cam phaser (trying to eliminate the cold start rattle). I don't know if I helped anything or not.

What I can tell you is that it's surprisingly more challenging to make or get the adjustments correct than one might think. The back side is really tuff to see so I was using a mirror, but it's most being done just by feel. I elected to go back in a second time a month after the first time. The second time I triple checked them all but still wonder what or if I missed something cause I get a clicking noise on start up now. It goes away after the car is up to temp. and I was setting the valve lash toward the minimums on all of them.

If I was advising I would say to write down each one before any adjustments, and know why you are wanting to make an adjustment on each one. Again, it seems to be common for DIY's to do the work and still not get the outcome you wanted.

Thank you! I'll have to look into that then. I want her to start using VRP since it burns a decent amount of oil. But I don't want to her to be solely reliant on me to do absolutely all of her maintnence either. That might result in endless phone calls. haha

 

[martinq]

I believe we've discussed this before. As of right now there is no CVTF-LV aftermarket alternative that I'm aware of. There are some fluids that say they're compatible, but nobody that I'm aware of has tried them in the TR690. I don't want to be the guinea pig for that either at $10k for a replacement....

An LV or UVL CVTF exists for marginal fuel efficiency gains and can easily be substituted with any commonly available CVTF. Same / similar to running 5w30/40 in a 0w/5w20 application. You're trading fuel economy for viscosity protection.

If you need to pay huge markups to get that last 1% then I don't see how it's worth it.

 

[TacoFergie]

An LV or UVL CVTF exists for marginal fuel efficiency gains and can easily be substituted with any commonly available CVTF. Same / similar to running 5w30/40 in a 0w/5w20 application. You're trading fuel economy for viscosity protection.

If you need to pay huge markups to get that last 1% then I don't see how it's worth it.

What I'm concerned with is fluid compatibilty when mixing. No one has tested CVTF-LV to even know it's viscosity, let alone it's additive package. There are some on the Ascent and Outback pages that claim using a different fluid will cause it to fail in 5-20k miles, but I also haven't seen proof of that. The TR690 is already a fickle transmission as is. With unknown fluids, who knows how it will react? Again, I'm not comfortable being the guinea pig on this one. Heck, my 10R80 is nearly half the price of a TR690. lol

I would be curious what HPL would say about it, maybe they have some experience with this fluid or transmission? If they had a compatible fluid where it could be ordered by the quart, they would probably sell a decent amount just due to

 

[martinq]

I'd be interested if you can get any feedback from Amsoil, Red Line or HPL for this application. Personally I would run Amsoil or one of the compatible Multi-ATFs without worry (curious, but not concern).

The most critical issues under your control to be aware of with a CVT are the firmware updates, fluid temperature (don't overheat) and keeping the fluid & magnets clean. If you can stay on top of those then you've done just about all you can. Fluid selection is not of much concern unless you're racing, towing, etc and then temperature control is much more critical.

 

[brages]

Is [...] DPSF-2 (diff) the only fluids to use or are there alternatives?

Acura DPSF is a good alternative if it's cheaper.

There is also also a DPSF alternative from Eneos. ENEOS Import DPS Fluid I think it's about $10/qt from NAPA which would save you a couple of bucks a quart, I think? Normally I like a good alternative, but the savings doesn't seem worth it unless it's a lot more convenient for you. I think I got my DSPF from ebay, so that's pretty convenient if you're not in a hurry.