2014 Jeep GC 5.7 PP 0w-20 5400 miles

[Vigg]

Here's another UOA from my 2014 Jeep GC. Vehicle currently has 61,100 miles on it. This is my 4th UOA. I mostly do this to make sure everything is A OK but I also do it as a form of entertainment/ enjoyment

.

Here's a little more info from my previous ones:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4794599/1

Basically this one was done because I did have elevated wear levels on my last one. I was concerned because I switched from PP 5w-20 to PP 0w-20. I did this because I was able to score 3 jugs of 0w-20 for $13 and wanted to use it.


I'm very happy with this UOA. Seem like all wear numbers either dropped or are in check where they should be.


I have an AFE dry filter and was a little disappointed with the silicon numbers. It was cleaned and left alone when this oil was first put in. I don't think the levels are alarming but its not as low as the 2nd one. This filter has been in for all of the UOA. I refuse to buy a stock paper one and chalk that up to me just being stubborn.

Interested in the Titanium numbers for and not sure where they are coming from.

Also the TBN are a little strange. It seems like there is hardly any change with 5400 miles vs 7500 miles. Also do you think the oil might be thickening up with the extended intervals.

I performed this one early at 5400 miles to make sure the oil could take it after the previous one. The oil is still in and I may change it at the 6000 mile mark unless others think I can extend it out to 7500.

As always curious to hear what the experts have to say

 

[demarpaint]

It sure looks like 7.5K miles is possible. Me I'd probably play it safe and go for 7K.

 

[dave1251]

Anything less then 10K is not even stressing this lube.

 

[StevieC]

I'm not impressed by the iron/copper numbers over that low of a mileage. I would consider trying another oil formulation and if that doesn't help go with maybe a different weight.
I'm not saying these numbers are a problem to panic about, but there is lower numbers per 1K miles.

As for the air filter I would go back to a conventional. Mopar, Fram, Mahle. That Si isn't terrible though. Just not as great as I think it could be.

 

[irv]

The copper is from your oil cooler and I am not sure how long it would take, if ever, to get that number down?

Like I and others mentioned in your other post, I think it's time to get rid of or try a stock air filter filter for the next OC, but that is only if the numbers bother you any?
I know curiosity would get the best of me so that's what I'd do just to compare silicon and wear numbers.

 

[demarpaint]

In my on going learning process I'm interested in why iron doubled in the run where the filter wasn't changed? Is that because the dirty oil that was in the filter was released into the fresh oil and spiked the reading at the end of the OCI. The iron #'s were pretty consistent every time the filter was changed. If you want to split hairs Cr was higher too in the run where the filter wasn't changed. Yes I realize we are talking a few ppm, just trying to learn from the resident experts. Copper wouldn't bother me in this engine.

 

[Vigg]

Originally Posted by StevieC
I'm not impressed by the iron/copper numbers over that low of a mileage. I would consider trying another oil formulation and if that doesn't help go with maybe a different weight.
I'm not saying these numbers are a problem to panic about, but there is lower numbers per 1K miles.

As for the air filter I would go back to a conventional. Mopar, Fram, Mahle. That Si isn't terrible though. Just not as great as I think it could be.


As others have mentioned the copper is from the oil cooler. I have heard of other oils not reacting with oil coolers and shedding as much copper out. I think it was one of the Valvoline products but cant remember.


Not many Hemi UOA out there but the few I've seen have had this iron count to them. This one is 2.22 ppm per 1k miles which I think is ok for an iron block like the Hemi.

Originally Posted by irv
The copper is from your oil cooler and I am not sure how long it would take, if ever, to get that number down?

Like I and others mentioned in your other post, I think it's time to get rid of or try a stock air filter filter for the next OC, but that is only if the numbers bother you any?
I know curiosity would get the best of me so that's what I'd do just to compare silicon and wear numbers.


Correct about the copper from the oil cooler. I'm also curious if it ever trends down...

If the iron count didn't come down then I would change the filter to a stock one. Doesn't really seem like the silicon is effecting anything and it doesn't really bother me so I'm going to leave it.


Originally Posted by demarpaint
In my on going learning process I'm interested in why iron doubled in the run where the filter wasn't changed? Is that because the dirty oil that was in the filter was released into the fresh oil and spiked the reading at the end of the OCI. The iron #'s were pretty consistent every time the filter was changed. If you want to split hairs Cr was higher too in the run where the filter wasn't changed. Yes I realize we are talking a few ppm, just trying to learn from the resident experts. Copper wouldn't bother me in this engine.


So I actually made a mistake. The filter was NEW on the report with the elevated levels. I was concerned with the Cr as I believe that's bearing material and or piston rings? This report had the OLD filter on it with the bad reading. I'm wondering if that bad report was just an anomaly? Also wondering what's up with the very small Titanium reading.

 

[demarpaint]

^Thanks for clearing that up.^ After some thought I would give PP or PU 5W30 a shot.

 

[ZZman]

Add pack looks weak to me.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted by StevieC
I'm not impressed by the iron/copper numbers over that low of a mileage. I would consider trying another oil formulation and if that doesn't help go with maybe a different weight.
I'm not saying these numbers are a problem to panic about, but there is lower numbers per 1K miles.

As for the air filter I would go back to a conventional. Mopar, Fram, Mahle. That Si isn't terrible though. Just not as great as I think it could be.



It's a HEMI. It sheds metal without any durability issues.

 

[StevieC]

Which is why I said this...

Quote
I'm not impressed by the iron/copper numbers over that low of a mileage. I would consider trying another oil formulation and if that doesn't help go with maybe a different weight. I'm not saying these numbers are a problem to panic about...


It was about "Tuning" not because if he doesn't change it will lead to engine failure.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by ZZman
Add pack looks weak to me.




Why do you think it's weak? It looks normal to me.

 

[Vigg]

Originally Posted by demarpaint
^Thanks for clearing that up.^ After some thought I would give PP or PU 5W30 a shot.


I will eventually try that. I think that will be the last test to satisfy my curiosity on oil weights and this motor.

Originally Posted by ZZman
Add pack looks weak to me.


I'll let other more informed people chime in, but it looks ok to me? Decent amount of Moly and Boron. They upped the Mg to compensate for the reduction is Ca. I believe its a little on the thicker end of a 20 weight as well.

Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by StevieC
I'm not impressed by the iron/copper numbers over that low of a mileage. I would consider trying another oil formulation and if that doesn't help go with maybe a different weight.
I'm not saying these numbers are a problem to panic about, but there is lower numbers per 1K miles.

As for the air filter I would go back to a conventional. Mopar, Fram, Mahle. That Si isn't terrible though. Just not as great as I think it could be.



It's a HEMI. It sheds metal without any durability issues.


From the few other Hemi UOA I've seen this appears to be the truth. They just shed Iron and obviously copper from the oil cooler. Its just not a low wear motor like some of the Toyotas for example.

 

[fusseli]

Silicon isn't that bad. If it's a panel filter, try and clean the sealing edges. If it's a CAI, make sure all connections have hose clamps, especially the PCV breather tube. I've off road in extremely dusty conditions, and run OCIs over 7k, and have had similar or lower silicon with my afe CAI.

Wear metals are normal in every pentastar UOA I have seen. Maybe Hemi is similar.

Looks fine to me? Run that thing for a few more k until the OLM runs out, it will be good to go....

 

[Vigg]

Originally Posted by fusseli
Silicon isn't that bad. If it's a panel filter, try and clean the sealing edges. If it's a CAI, make sure all connections have hose clamps, especially the PCV breather tube. I've off road in extremely dusty conditions, and run OCIs over 7k, and have had similar or lower silicon with my afe CAI.

Wear metals are normal in every pentastar UOA I have seen. Maybe Hemi is similar.

Looks fine to me? Run that thing for a few more k until the OLM runs out, it will be good to go....


It is a panel drop in filter in the factory box. I cleaned it when this oil had around 1000 miles on it. Was really hoping to see a drop but no dice. I thought I cleaned the edges of the box itself but maybe not.

I think that's the plan. Just run it to 7000 and change with the remaining 2 more oil changes of PP 0w-20 I have on the shelf. Maybe run a 5w-30 after that to just satisfy my curiosity.