2013 Sienna dealer put in wrong weight

I'm really questioning if they actually changed the clearances in the engine between 2010 and 2011 or if they just finished whatever certification they do to that confirms that the 0W20 will work just fine when they released the 2011s.
Bearing clearances for your engine didn't change at all. I would bet on it. In fact, there has been no significant change in bearing clearances for 20 years.

The BS that is spouted that lighter oil is needed for the tighter tolerances of modern engines, is just that, BS. Will the car run fine on 0W-20? Yes, but it will run equally well on 5W-30.

 
Bearing clearances for your engine didn't change at all. I would bet on it. In fact, there has been no significant change in bearing clearances for 20 years.

The BS that is spouted that lighter oil is needed for the tighter tolerances of modern engines, is just that, BS. Will the car run fine on 0W-20? Yes, but it will run equally well on 5W-30.

This article is incorrect. He is off by a factor of TEN on his clearance range !
The clearance range (tolerance) have - for over a Century - measured from a bit below one-thousandth of an inch to a bit over
two and one half thousandths for pressure lubricated plain bearings. ( 0.0007 > 0.0027" )
The larger clearances, demanding a more viscous oil (and higher oil volume - NOT pressure) are spec'd in
very high power density (KW/L) engines which subject reciprocating parts to high angular velocity and jerk/jolt loads.
These will induce harmonic resonances and flexing of the crank ( and block) in which it will not run true in certain instances.

Designing plain shell bearings for a less viscous lubricant an the concomitant reduced min oil film thickness would typically increase the bearing length (and possibly diameter) to increase the loading surface AREA.

Then there are considerations for low mass Forged pistons with slipper skirts, hydraulic lash adjuster bleed-down rate, Chain tensioner loading, oil pump and drain back rate, and valve control lubrication.

- Ken
 
Thanks everyone this is really helpful input. Just leaving the 5W30 in there was really what I was leaning toward. I'm really questioning if they actually changed the clearances in the engine between 2010 and 2011 or if they just finished whatever certification they do to that confirms that the 0W20 will work just fine when they released the 2011s.

Seeing some replies that in many other parts of the world this engine is still specked for 5W30 really makes me inclined to continue with that. It would be so much more convenient. The 5W30 is so much easier to read in the dip stick, and my 2001 prism uses 5W30. Standardizing on the exact same oil in both would be very convient since they both use odd amounts. With one using less than 5 quarts and the other more than 5 quarts it could work out rather nicely.
Perfectly fine logic there moving forward!!! ;)
 
Never heard of one grade of oil being easier to read on the dipstick. Chime in please,I may be wrong.

The 0W20 runs off the dipstick as you pull it out. So when it's out you can actually see the reading changing on the dipstip. Then when you wipe it stick it back in and pull it out again the dipstick has oil all up and down it from what ran off on the first pull plus you can see the reading changing again. It can be madening to try to figure out the actual level.
 
I bought a 2013 Toyota Sienna back in May and it came with two "free" oil changes. The drive back to the dealership was a little far but I decided hey why not take them up on the "free" oil change. The van calls for a 0W20 but when I got home from the service yesterday I realized that the sticker said 5W30. The receipt also said 5W30. I've done a little research and it looks like the 2GR-FE engine has been speced for multiple weights over the years. It looks like the earlier years called for 5W30 and since 2011 they've called for 0W20. So I'm trying to decide if I should drain it and re-fill with the correct recommended 0W20 and sucumb to the idea that I totally just wasted my time and gas getting the free oil change or if I should just decide that the 5W30 is fine since the same engine called for that in older models. If I decide that I might as well decide to just go with 5W30 from now on. The 5w30 is way easier to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. Any thoughts, keep the 5W30 or switch it back to 0W20?
I use Mobil1 5W30 EP in my Sienna.
Here is last year UOA:
 

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The 0W20 runs off the dipstick as you pull it out. So when it's out you can actually see the reading changing on the dipstip. Then when you wipe it stick it back in and pull it out again the dipstick has oil all up and down it from what ran off on the first pull plus you can see the reading changing again. It can be madening to try to figure out the actual level.
So does 5W30. It is dipstick material.
 
0w20 is almost always a synthetic oil while the 5w30 could be conventional oil. I wouldn't run the full prescribed 10,000 miles OCI on unknown 5w30 but instead 5k miles.
 
Never heard of one grade of oil being easier to read on the dipstick. Chime in please,I may be wrong.

Probably slides off the dipstick too easy. I'd be worried that there isn't sufficient dipstick protection using 0W20.
 
Probably slides off the dipstick too easy. I'd be worried that there isn't sufficient dipstick protection using 0W20.
It is not weight. It is dipstick material and color of it. While oil is new, it is pretty much transparent on that dipstick. Once oil becomes darker, it will be easier to read.
 
This is a non issue. Sleep well with 5/30 in there. Next OC.....put what you want in it
 
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