Unless Kia changed their recommendation, you can also use a 5w40 in that engine. That's what I used when I had a '12 Optima turbo. I would certainly use a synthetic, whether 5w30 or 5w40.
2013 Kia Optima turbo
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Originally Posted By: Eddie
Excess fuel dilution drives wear up as we know. However; we should look at the wear values first and if those values are good or excellent, then fuel dilution is a non issue. Too many look at fuel dilution first and ignore the wear values. Ed
Good point. many engines have a lot of fuel dilution but have zero problems from it. It can be a non issue.
Excess fuel dilution drives wear up as we know. However; we should look at the wear values first and if those values are good or excellent, then fuel dilution is a non issue. Too many look at fuel dilution first and ignore the wear values. Ed
Good point. many engines have a lot of fuel dilution but have zero problems from it. It can be a non issue.
I've been told t hat fuel dilution is inevitable and no type of detergent out there can prevent it. However, good quality oils like Castrol Edge can hold up longer against fuel dilution than most oils. However, keep in mind that nearly all modern oils can hold up against fuel dilution within designated OCIs between 3k to 5k OCIs. SO I wouldn't worry about it.
Anyway, gas direct injected engines AND MPFI engines are susceptible to fuel dilution. There have been studies investigating this.
Anyway, gas direct injected engines AND MPFI engines are susceptible to fuel dilution. There have been studies investigating this.
i have an optima turbo '13.1st OC is marked @ 6000 kms.
after that it's 5000 kms.
turbos call for 5 w30.
2.4 non turbos call for 5w20.
manual says you can use 5w40 in the turbo.
i would suggest using the genuine kia/hyundai oil filter--dealers are really
hung up on using only their filter--they even have a poster in their parts dept.
showing how much better their filter is--it's probably b.s. but if a warranty
issue comes up why chance it.if you change yourself get a crush washer too for the
drain plug.keep records--the dealer gives a nice kia notebook with pen--use it to write down the maintenance and staple bills of sale to the notebook.
i have a strange feeling warranty may be dicey with them--so far i've had no problems.
p.s. the filter with washer is like 12 bucks canadian.
after that it's 5000 kms.
turbos call for 5 w30.
2.4 non turbos call for 5w20.
manual says you can use 5w40 in the turbo.
i would suggest using the genuine kia/hyundai oil filter--dealers are really
hung up on using only their filter--they even have a poster in their parts dept.
showing how much better their filter is--it's probably b.s. but if a warranty
issue comes up why chance it.if you change yourself get a crush washer too for the
drain plug.keep records--the dealer gives a nice kia notebook with pen--use it to write down the maintenance and staple bills of sale to the notebook.
i have a strange feeling warranty may be dicey with them--so far i've had no problems.
p.s. the filter with washer is like 12 bucks canadian.
Originally Posted By: atoalson
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Let your son take care of it.
Maybe he's trying to be a good dad and help his son out.
hahaha, I love the edit!
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Let your son take care of it.
Maybe he's trying to be a good dad and help his son out.
hahaha, I love the edit!
Quote:
Let your son take care of it.
I don't know, I try and help my son with his oil and filter selection and maintenance schedules. Having recently purchased a vehicle with DI I want him to make the best choice possible to protect his investment.
In my case, went to pm a member who owned the same model and is very knowledgeable on the vehicle and asked for suggestions. Think I arrived at a good oil choice for his vehicle and passed the information on. Now while it's ultimately up to him to decide, I've at least tried to help.
Think it's only normal to try and help ones kids.
As for the OP, as mentioned first check the owners manual especially with warranty considerations. And if you want, do a google search of Bitog using the vehicle model as reference for past threads. And read some Kia/Hyundai specific forums for oil choices on the specific model and engine. Should give you a good idea of some of the best oil choices.
Let your son take care of it.
I don't know, I try and help my son with his oil and filter selection and maintenance schedules. Having recently purchased a vehicle with DI I want him to make the best choice possible to protect his investment.
In my case, went to pm a member who owned the same model and is very knowledgeable on the vehicle and asked for suggestions. Think I arrived at a good oil choice for his vehicle and passed the information on. Now while it's ultimately up to him to decide, I've at least tried to help.
Think it's only normal to try and help ones kids.
As for the OP, as mentioned first check the owners manual especially with warranty considerations. And if you want, do a google search of Bitog using the vehicle model as reference for past threads. And read some Kia/Hyundai specific forums for oil choices on the specific model and engine. Should give you a good idea of some of the best oil choices.
Go synthetic even if the manual says conventional is acceptable. Every turbocharged gasoline engine I have dealt with gets heavy varnish if you use conventional or syn blend and change it every 3000 miles.
In the European engine oil section, I have read a theory that GDI engines would benefit from VW 504/507 approved engine oils.
In the European engine oil section, I have read a theory that GDI engines would benefit from VW 504/507 approved engine oils.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Unless the manufacturer requires syn, im not buying it anymore (I once was a 'syn for every turbo' guy). As long as you stick to to the owners manual OCI and oil specs, you will be fine. The Santa Fe Sport 2.0T GDI requires 5w30 SM GF-4 (section 8.7). It also states that if not available, SL (section 8.8) and 10w30 (section 8.9) is acceptable. 5k -normal / 3k - severe oci. I'm sure the Optima's requirement is different but it still does not require syn. I will trust the guys and gals who designed, tested and built these engines.
But if syn is your choice, there is nothing wrong with that, especially if the driver might have a heavy right foot all the time and oci's not be strictly adhered to.
But if syn is your choice, there is nothing wrong with that, especially if the driver might have a heavy right foot all the time and oci's not be strictly adhered to.
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Originally Posted By: wemay
Unless the manufacturer requires syn, im not buying it anymore (I once was a 'syn for every turbo' guy). As long as you stick to to the owners manual OCI and oil specs, you will be fine. The Santa Fe Sport 2.0T GDI requires 5w30 SM GF-4 (section 8.7). It also states that if not available, SL (section 8.8) and 10w30 (section 8.9) is acceptable. 5k -normal / 3k - severe oci. I'm sure the Optima's requirement is different but it still does not require syn. I will trust the guys and gals who designed, tested and built these engines.
The same ones that don't care once car is out of warranty so you hopefully buy a new car?!?
Unless the manufacturer requires syn, im not buying it anymore (I once was a 'syn for every turbo' guy). As long as you stick to to the owners manual OCI and oil specs, you will be fine. The Santa Fe Sport 2.0T GDI requires 5w30 SM GF-4 (section 8.7). It also states that if not available, SL (section 8.8) and 10w30 (section 8.9) is acceptable. 5k -normal / 3k - severe oci. I'm sure the Optima's requirement is different but it still does not require syn. I will trust the guys and gals who designed, tested and built these engines.
The same ones that don't care once car is out of warranty so you hopefully buy a new car?!?
wemay
Site Donor 2023
With the proliferation of forced induction and DI in all vehicle segments the past 5 years, the vast majority of these owners are families with little interest in oil, forums or diy; using 'good ole' conventional 5w30 that meets requirement, every 5,000 miles at the dealer. They are all doing fine and a vast majority will never have an oil issue. You want turbo protection within oci limits? Use API SN. You want long drain intervals? Go syn blend/synthetic.
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Originally Posted By: Flareside302
Originally Posted By: wemay
Unless the manufacturer requires syn, im not buying it anymore (I once was a 'syn for every turbo' guy). As long as you stick to to the owners manual OCI and oil specs, you will be fine. The Santa Fe Sport 2.0T GDI requires 5w30 SM GF-4 (section 8.7). It also states that if not available, SL (section 8.8) and 10w30 (section 8.9) is acceptable. 5k -normal / 3k - severe oci. I'm sure the Optima's requirement is different but it still does not require syn. I will trust the guys and gals who designed, tested and built these engines.
The same ones that don't care once car is out of warranty so you hopefully buy a new car?!?
Actually manufacturers make more on parts than cars.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Unless the manufacturer requires syn, im not buying it anymore (I once was a 'syn for every turbo' guy). As long as you stick to to the owners manual OCI and oil specs, you will be fine. The Santa Fe Sport 2.0T GDI requires 5w30 SM GF-4 (section 8.7). It also states that if not available, SL (section 8.8) and 10w30 (section 8.9) is acceptable. 5k -normal / 3k - severe oci. I'm sure the Optima's requirement is different but it still does not require syn. I will trust the guys and gals who designed, tested and built these engines.
The same ones that don't care once car is out of warranty so you hopefully buy a new car?!?
Actually manufacturers make more on parts than cars.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: zeuloa
Originally Posted By: Flareside302
Originally Posted By: Flareside302
wemay said:
wemay
Site Donor 2023
At $14 a jug and 3k mile oci, two QSAD jugs come out cheaper than one $22 jug and 5k mile oci with syn.
$28 for two oil changes vs $22 for one. (filters are a wash because at 3K, I use Purolator-$3, at 5k, POne-$6 [currently using up a stash of POne's]).
If I'm going to use conventional in the TGDi, a good quality oil, QSAD, plus frequent oc is a must.
***I also have a free 'maintenance plan' (9 oil changes up to 2017). I will take advantage of it after I run out of the bought filters, to take advantage of the oem ones. Not allowing the use of their bulk oil though, Maximo 5w30.
$28 for two oil changes vs $22 for one. (filters are a wash because at 3K, I use Purolator-$3, at 5k, POne-$6 [currently using up a stash of POne's]).
If I'm going to use conventional in the TGDi, a good quality oil, QSAD, plus frequent oc is a must.
***I also have a free 'maintenance plan' (9 oil changes up to 2017). I will take advantage of it after I run out of the bought filters, to take advantage of the oem ones. Not allowing the use of their bulk oil though, Maximo 5w30.
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