2013 Hyundai Elantra GT 1.8L Piston slap?

Well known issue with the 1.8nu. Either prepare for an engine replacement or ditch it. My Sonata is the last Hyundai I'll ever own. My wife's Elantra went to literal crap by 70k miles.
 
That sounded somewhat normal to me (similar to my girlfriend's 2.4 Sonata) but I have heard piston slap on lots of Elanta's and Kia Forte's driving past me. A woman that works at the office building next to ours literally sits there and smokes for like 10 minutes waiting for her Kia Forte to stop knocking profusely before she drives away. I've never spoken to her, but it's obvious that she knows that it's a problem and that's why she lets it warm up for a while.

Also, if it is piston slap it should be much worse when cold, and especially under load. I could make a video of my high mileage 305 to demonstrate. Mine goes away faster if I drive away immediately, but sounds terrible for the first 20 seconds or something.
 
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Edit: watching some of my videos from 4 years ago the piston slap wasn't near as bad....-30 degrees Celsius and it was almost unnoticeable at idle immediately after startup. (Still knocked if you pulled away immediately).

Listen to this last one if you want to hear a carbureted start-up at minus 30.
 
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I've had the same sound on my 2013 Elantra since I can remember when cold. But after a few minutes and the engine warms up it goes away and runs quite.
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https://www.hyundai-forums.com/



Go here and get acquainted. In particular Darrenbach and SBR 711. There's a couple of Hyundai wrenches here know their 💩. FYI there's a 10 y 120k full replacement warranty on those ...£ theta 2 engines not limited to initial owner. That tick sounds a lot like what my daughters 15 elantra had. Hers was right on the timing chain gear. I never knew why as I wasn't touching it under warranty. They just glanced at hers and didn't need to do anything further just ordered one up. That will🤨hopefully get you past 120k. After that you'll be on your own and it'll better serve mankind as Forks n spoons if ðŸ™when it craps out again. They are worth about 🤦ðŸ»â€â™‚ï¸On trade in. Now repeat after me, " friends dont let friends buy Theta 2 engined Hyundai's /Kias".
 
Originally Posted by Driz
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/



Go here and get acquainted. In particular Darrenbach and SBR 711. There's a couple of Hyundai wrenches here know their 💩. FYI there's a 10 y 120k full replacement warranty on those ...£ theta 2 engines not limited to initial owner. That tick sounds a lot like what my daughters 15 elantra had. Hers was right on the timing chain gear. I never knew why as I wasn't touching it under warranty. They just glanced at hers and didn't need to do anything further just ordered one up. That will🤨hopefully get you past 120k. After that you'll be on your own and it'll better serve mankind as Forks n spoons if ðŸ™when it craps out again. They are worth about 🤦ðŸ»â€â™‚ï¸On trade in. Now repeat after me, " friends dont let friends buy Theta 2 engined Hyundai's /Kias".


Did they expand the recall to the 1.8? Last I heard it was just the 2.4 and 2.0t.
 
The OP does not have the Theta 2 Engine. The 2013 Elantra has the 1.8 Nu Engine. Which has nothing to do with the Theta 2 Engine recalls. The 1.8 Nu Engine does have a TSB just in Canada for piston slap. But nothing for the US.
 
Originally Posted by strongt
The OP does not have the Theta 2 Engine. The 2013 Elantra has the 1.8 Nu Engine. Which has nothing to do with the Theta 2 Engine recalls. The 1.8 Nu Engine does have a TSB just in Canada for piston slap. But nothing for the US.



Whoops my bad, after having a couple of these cursing cars I tend to get their pressing issues all confused. Unfortunately unless they decide to bless you Hyundai only goes to the 60,000 warranty with the Elantra engine. Skidded out from under the big recall on that one. I'm not going to look it up and go chapter and verse but I do remember very clearly dealing with my daughters 15 one statement they've made somewhere. That in 2014 sometime they have changed the coating on the pistons which was causing all the engine failures in the Elantras. I don't know anything about it except one thing I know very clearly that on the 2015 it was taken just exactly like that 2 1/2 years later with 46,000 miles and close interval oil changes with top-tier synthetic. If you watch those cars driving around in Walmart parking lot every now and then you'll hear the familiar tick going by as the car is beating it self to death and the owner has no clue. I don't really know what causes it but the last oil change I did took so long for the oil to get down into the bottom of the base that I accidentally put a quart too much in it and had to remove some. If warm synthetic takes over 5 minutes to settle down something's blocking it don't ya think.
The OP doesn't have the power of the government on his side To lean on them this case. When you dig around you will see cases where they have given three engines away under similar circumstances. Just understand it's up to them so play nice. They might even make you a good deal and give you the engine if you pay the installation or some such thing. As I said hook up with those guys in the group and see what they have to say about your situation you might get lucky. Just make sure to do your homework and that's the place to do it. Then after that stay the [censored] away from my under what's good for your 💸💸💸💸💸💸💸.
 
I forgot to mention one thing about those Hyundai forums. One of those guys will look up your warranty status for you if you send him your vin. Ask them there and do what they recommend. One thing with Hyundai I'll give them is how well they work with most customers . They have good willed some engines wayyyy past cutoff. Sometimes it's hit n miss but they often are quite accommodating when they have no reason to be. It's sort of a crap shoot. Who knows, it might be worth the $150 diagnostic. See what those guys say on the Hyundai forum and cross your fingers.
 
Originally Posted by Driz
I forgot to mention one thing about those Hyundai forums. One of those guys will look up your warranty status for you if you send him your vin. Ask them there and do what they recommend. One thing with Hyundai I'll give them is how well they work with most customers . They have good willed some engines wayyyy past cutoff. Sometimes it's hit n miss but they often are quite accommodating when they have no reason to be. It's sort of a crap shoot. Who knows, it might be worth the $150 diagnostic. See what those guys say on the Hyundai forum and cross your fingers.

SBR711 is the guy you're talking about I believe.
 
UPDATE

Picked the car up from the local Hyundai dealer. They were unable to duplicate the noise and I was present the second time they started the motor. I showed both service writers the video that they were in agreement that something is wrong. If they're able to duplicate the noise, they can submit paperwork to replace engine.

Wouldn't you know it, started the car this morning before work, and the knock was present!
 
Originally Posted by dja4260
UPDATE

Picked the car up from the local Hyundai dealer. They were unable to duplicate the noise and I was present the second time they started the motor. I showed both service writers the video that they were in agreement that something is wrong. If they're able to duplicate the noise, they can submit paperwork to replace engine.

Wouldn't you know it, started the car this morning before work, and the knock was present!

Maybe they put two bottles of STP Treatment in it, to quiet it down, prior to your arrival for the 2nd time.

I'm not sure if the end of my reply requires a joke - a smilie - or a frownie attached.....
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I do know this! We cannot trust anyone these days, including a priest.
 
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Unfortunately rod knock is common in these cars, poor metal quality and machining from Hyundai. If it were me I would get rid of that car while it still runs and has some value. In the mean time use a thicker synthetic high mileage oil.
 
Good morning,

I own outright a 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT, 1.8LNu port injected 4 cyclinder w/ 78k miles. The oil has always been changed every 3500-3700 miles either by a hyundai dealer, private shop, or myself. I'm unable to provide proof of every change but if anyone were to pull the valve cover or oil pan, it would be clean and sludge free. I have a 10 yr/100k factory warranty.

I cannot tell you exactly how long ago I noticed this loud noise, which is more pronounced when the engine is cold. This engine has always been "chatty", which I contributed to valve train noise and the thin oil it's spec'd for. There is a distinct knock noise that I believe started around 60k miles. Car runs great and has been problem free. I consider myself a spirited driver, and frequently take advantage of all 6 speeds.

Dealer told me over the phone that piston slap isn't common and they will diagnosis it for $125. A quick google search infomed me that a TSB was issued for Canadian cars within my model year, and same engine, and short blocks were to be replaced on Hyundai's dime. The Elantra GT was all built in the same factory. This TSB wasn't issued in the US, and it appears that people have fought/class action lawsuit to address this very same issue.

Below is a video of my car, running when cold. I hear two distinct sounds- a knock (louder, more solid sounding), and valve chatter (higher pitched chatter).

Thoughts??? Advice?
Hi!
I have a kia ceed, my 2010, with the G4FA engine. However, I am a victim of the "diesel" noise. Are you able to listen that tick tick inside the cabin, during idle or deceleration? Because I hear it clearly.



I would appreciate any feedback. The engine has solid followers (or lifters). So far, I have the valves adjusted, the chain set changed, of course the oil changed (to 5W-40) and new filter. The noise is as this in the videos attached.
 
I use 5W-40 synth oil and also some Motorkote, and still this noise. Can this noise be considered normal? In your Fortes, is it noticeable in the cabin like in my case?
 
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