2013 FZ6R Oil, No VI correct?

[jeff78]

Not yet, just got new oil Sunday.

It's slow shifting into third when cold. Could be syncros. Was like this from new.

Bike transmissions don't have synchros.
Honestly, I wouldn't sweat any weirdness when the oil's cold - what matters is how everything works when oil's up to temperature.

 

[LordNilesStandish]

Bike transmissions don't have synchros.
Honestly, I wouldn't sweat any weirdness when the oil's cold - what matters is how everything works when oil's up to temperature.

Forgot that LOL.
Good point, I just hate missing third gear, it's when the fun starts

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Forgot that LOL.
Good point, I just hate missing third gear, it's when the fun starts

False neutrals are not only frustrating but also dangerous because you loose drive... this video explains the problem and offers solutions...

 

[LordNilesStandish]

False neutrals are not only frustrating but also dangerous because you loose drive... this video explains the problem and offers solutions...

Thanks for the link.
Yes solution in video is correct and what I do. It is just frustratingly slow shifting until up to temp.
And by up to temp I mean the oil, which takes much longer than the coolant.

 

[LordNilesStandish]

An oil analysis will tell you what the properties of the oil are and what additives are in it. But it's understandable if you don't want to spend money to get an oil analysis done on oil you're not going to use.

Nothing wrong with a monograde if you're not doing starts in freezing temps. My 2014 FZ-09 spent the last 80K miles on Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 - a dead dino monograde non-motorcycle 'racing' oil. It's the best shifting oil I've ever used in this bike, and I've tried a good number of them. No clutch issues, no degradation in shift quality over the OCI, and used oil analyses showed zero shear (as you'd expect from a monograde) and plenty of TBN left for extending the interval if I wanted to.
During my last valve adjustment, I measured everything I could to see if there was any unusual/excessive wear. Nope, everything was in spec.

Your bike will like what it likes - find an oil that it likes and use it. Just be aware that sometimes oil formulations change.

P.S. Don't sweat the API certs too much - they're more important/relevant for modern cars/trucks than bikes. API has to keep revising the certs because the auto manufacturers are forced to constantly push boundaries to try to squeeze every last bit of life out of the dead-end internal combustion engine. Our 11 year old bikes have engines that haven't changed much from motorcycle engines of the 80's. So they couldn't care less about the latest API spec oil.

This is all really good information and helpful.
True even the vaunted R1 engine dates from the 88 or 89 YZF1000.
Too true about latest engine. Wow they place strain on oil. A lot of people getting caught out with old habits which were fine with older engines.
Like stuck rings causing excess oil consumption then oil starvation and catastrophic loss.

 

[jeff78]

Forgot that LOL.
Good point, I just hate missing third gear, it's when the fun starts

You could always install an oil temp gauge, I have one on mine. Oil does take longer than coolant to warm up - it actually helps if you have to ride through traffic to get to the nice roads. Our bikes have oil/coolant heat exchangers so the hotter coolant helps heat the oil.