2012 Subaru Impreza CVT fluid change done - notes

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Apologies on no pictures but figured explanation of the process is better than not posting.

We are original owners on a '12 Subaru Impreza 2.0 CVT. I intended to change the CVT fluid closer to 75k but deferred it to now at 99k miles on the clock.

The CVT has a lower, flat plan with a drain plug. I wanted to get more fluid out and clean the permanent metal filter, so I pulled the pan.

You should get the car up and level on four jack stands. There are channels on both sides of the underbody that I find work fine for placing jack stands.

First, you may want to be sure you can get the fill plug loose. It's a metric allen (10mm I believe) on the driver's side of the case, toward the back. Hard to miss.. about 8" up from the bottom.

Twelve bolts and a little prying and the pan is off. You'll get roughly 6 quarts out this way. A few bolts and a tug and you get the filter out. Turning it over a few times will drain fluid from the pickup. I ran some brakekleen through it and got it where I believe there was no material fluid left in there.

There is a shell of some kind that is bolted in above there that I wanted to get out to get more fluid out but once unbolted, I could not get it down around some linkage safely so I abandoned that.

You need to clean off the factory RTF off pan and trans case. There is one factory magnet on inside of pan to clean off.

My fluid was a little dirty but not too bad in my estimation.

RTV bead on the clean pan- you'll find instructions with a gasket making RTV (Permatex makes a transmisison pan specific one) generally say to hand tighten the pan up right after applying a bead, including around the bolt holes. Wait one hour and snug the bolts (I do snug, no torque wrench) Wait at least overnight before filling.

I got about 5 quarts in the fill hole before it began to dribble out. Put the plug back in. Start the car and warm it up & run the trans selector to D and R a few times. You are supposed to get the trans fluid to approx. 95-115 deg Farenheit. I estimated mine by an infrared gun on the pan. In approx. 70degree ambient temparatures this took around 10-15 minutes. Depending on how fast you get fluid in and how (I just squeeze the quart bottle with clear hose on a gear oil tip/top), you may need to wait a bit for the temperature to come back up.. but I just made sure I got to about 110 start and I found I stayed in the temp range in getting the last approx. 1.5 or so quarts in... once the car is properly warm, you are going to get 1.5-2.0 quarts in the fill hole before it dribbles out again. Get that fill plug pretty tight (much tighter than your pan bolts- it's big threads and has a copper crush washer.) YMV with reusing the copper washer.

I ended up doing it twice as I foolishly tried using an already opened blue RTV the first time. From doing it both times (though I didn't pull the filter on the redo), I estimate the process with pan pull take 6.75 quarts. I used Valvoline CVT.

I heard a few minor odd noises from the trans initially but I think the fluid was just getting fully circulated and/or maybe there is a bit of a computer relearning going on ? It performed fine and may possibly be a bit quieter.. the CVT trans has some inherent whining noises to it.

I'll drain plug change fluid every 50k from here.. I have the feeling this trans is not very stressed by the thunderous ~140hp NA 2.0l motor.
 
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Great work and write-up! I've only seen one or two other write-ups with pics on owners doing DIY fluid changes on Subaru Lineartronic CVTs. I too had a 2012 Legacy CVT that I leased and returned. I currently have a 2016 Forester CVT. I'm just under 30K miles. I may have a transmission shop I trust do a pan drop and fluid change on it soon. I know Subaru has made changes to this Lineartronic CVT since their debut in 2010 in the Legacy. Not sure how this would effect the fluid change procedure.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Did you take any pictures of the magnet before you cleaned it?
If so, please post them here!!!


Sorry, no. It's a typical round magnet. It had a thin light grey slurry on it- not too bad in my estimation.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
dean- was there a lot of debris in the filter?


No, I recall mostly just fluid coming out with maybe a bit of very fine debris.
 
Yes, sorry this was the first CVT fluid change. My conclusion is again that ~140hp is not very tough on this unit. Not sure if there are beefier CVTs in the 2.5l Subies and WRXs.
 
Pics here! Did this three weeks ago. It was about 110,000 miles after the first CVT fluid change and pan drop at the dealership with all the metal shavings caught up in the oil strainer.

This time around there were no metal shavings at all in the strainer. The magnet inside looked normal with the typical goop on it.

I hate this pan design. The drain plug sits above the rest of the fluid. I tried to pry it off and hold it level but it broke away easier than I expected and ended up getting CVT fluid all over the floor. It missed the oil pan I had underneath somehow. I'm using the oil extractor if there's ever a next time. This was the fourth change overall. D&F done at 60,000 (4x D&F, Valvoline CVTF, used ~18 quarts) and 90,000 (1x D&F)


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Just a not on sloth like subarau engines. 2L is 122 cu-in. 140HP is well more than 1 HP per cu in. a decent "street" tune for a 4V head motor. Then they soften throttle tip in and max torque in various situations - this is where most responsiveness is lost. My wifes new crosstrek seems to be VERY spunky around town - from the passenger seat.
 
6starprez- by your citing 18 quarts over 4 d&f - that seems light if the pan was removed each time, at least compared to my experience. How many quarts do you get back in cold and how much after warming, with pan removal? Again, I get about 5qts in and then 1.5 -2.0 after warmed up.
 
A little OT, but have you guys done the front differential gear oil on your Subaru CVTs? The few posts I've seen on that, the gear oil looked clean. The rears always seem dirtier, but they're crazy easy to drain/fill compared to the front.
 
Originally Posted By: deanm11
Yes, sorry this was the first CVT fluid change. My conclusion is again that ~140hp is not very tough on this unit. Not sure if there are beefier CVTs in the 2.5l Subies and WRXs.


I know that the CVT in my Forester XT takes a special high torque CVT fluid, it is usually referred to by color but I am not sure if that is the color of the fluid or the container it comes in. I made sure the dealer I took my FXT to for my 60kmile service was aware of the two CVT fluids and they claimed they kept the high torque flavor in stock.
I also know that the WRX' CVT is mechanically somewhat different from the one in the FXT (and has less lag on launch), but I don't know how they compare to the CVT in the Impreza. The FXT and WRX have the same claimed peak torque per Subaru, but the WRX maintains it to a somewhat higher RPM than the FXT and, consequently, has a higher peak HP. This may have necessitated the CVT hardware difference between the two, but I'm not sure.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
A little OT, but have you guys done the front differential gear oil on your Subaru CVTs? The few posts I've seen on that, the gear oil looked clean. The rears always seem dirtier, but they're crazy easy to drain/fill compared to the front.


I did both diffs at 30k miles. In my case, I don't recall either being that dirty.
 
Deanm11 -. The pan was was dropped at 10k and the last time at 120k. At 60k was a switch over to Valvoline CVTF so I used 18 quarts to get as much of the old Subaru fluid out. It was about 6 quarts after the adjustment. Didn't turn it over a few times like you did trying to get extra out. I have large stash of Valvoline CVTF from AZ for $1/quart.

I do the differentials at the same time. Especially since the rear only holds .8 quart. Thats why its dirtier than the front. The larger the volume, the longer the oil stays cleaner.
 
deanm11 thanks for posting your experience.

JTK,

I did the front and rear diffs fairly early on a '14, 5k miles, and the front was great looking while the rear was black. I'm not convinced that the rear fluid was bad or worn out, but rather the factory used some kind of assembly grease or marking compound on the gears.

Fairly easy job, but the rear plugs were a bear to remove compared to the front. I used a floor jack against a breaker bar to pop both off. The fill plug almost raised the entire rear end off the ground before it let loose.
 
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gomes- yes, the rear diff oil was very dark when I changed it on my 2014 XV Crosstrek 5spd around 30K miles. Luckily the plugs broke free fairly easily.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
what was wrong with a factory gasket , rather than owner applied goo?


Factory uses a goo as well. I'd certainly rather a gasket... which gasket (within Fram filter kit) was an option on the 2015 Dodge Caravan I maintain and installed the Dorman pan with drain plug, despite it also being a factory RTV install.. I found no such aftermarket gasket for my Impreza.
 
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