Time to throw more parts at the beater. It got front wheel bearings and ball joints last fall. The ball joints were an add-on because the boots were torn or tore in the process of front-end takedown. (Fun story, it ended not being the bearings. It was cupped tires.)
Now the CV shafts are spitting from the outer boots. My car seems to be an odd single-year combo (2012 skyactiv 2.0 six-speed auto) so no boot kit available and I haven't been able to solve the problem with fresh bands on the outers. So it's going to get shafts.
And there is a horrible popping from the front end, both sides it seems that has developed since the prior work. Mostly when turning the wheel (but not every time) and very rarely over a bump. I can feel lateral movement between the knuckle and lower arm when my wife turns the wheel. The popping developed slowly since doing the prior work but was not initially evident.
Were my new ball joints duds? Sankei 555? Are they likely dead in only 2k miles, or are they popping and moving within the control arms (press in style)? Do ball joints pop or am I going to wind up doing lower control arms and/or strut mounts?
Doing ball joints again is going to be a pain, but I'm there anyway for CV shafts. Doing lower arms is going to be a bigger pain. 95k on vehicle.
Bitog crystal ball experts unite. This car's biggest problem seems to be the person working on it.
Now the CV shafts are spitting from the outer boots. My car seems to be an odd single-year combo (2012 skyactiv 2.0 six-speed auto) so no boot kit available and I haven't been able to solve the problem with fresh bands on the outers. So it's going to get shafts.
And there is a horrible popping from the front end, both sides it seems that has developed since the prior work. Mostly when turning the wheel (but not every time) and very rarely over a bump. I can feel lateral movement between the knuckle and lower arm when my wife turns the wheel. The popping developed slowly since doing the prior work but was not initially evident.
Were my new ball joints duds? Sankei 555? Are they likely dead in only 2k miles, or are they popping and moving within the control arms (press in style)? Do ball joints pop or am I going to wind up doing lower control arms and/or strut mounts?
Doing ball joints again is going to be a pain, but I'm there anyway for CV shafts. Doing lower arms is going to be a bigger pain. 95k on vehicle.
Bitog crystal ball experts unite. This car's biggest problem seems to be the person working on it.
Well, I couldn't take the noise in the beater commuter anymore. Pulled knuckles yesterday, first batch of parts arriving today. It's my first experience with press-in bearings.
Factory bearings are definitely noisy and have play at 93k miles. Car has had minimal salt exposure but rotor removal, lower ball joint separation, and knuckle/strut separation were tasks I was not prepared for. I will be buying a bigger hammer. Bad design for Mazda to make the ID of the rotor hat a close fit to the OD of the hub flange - any rust in the rotor hat locks the rotor onto the flange.
Timken...
Factory bearings are definitely noisy and have play at 93k miles. Car has had minimal salt exposure but rotor removal, lower ball joint separation, and knuckle/strut separation were tasks I was not prepared for. I will be buying a bigger hammer. Bad design for Mazda to make the ID of the rotor hat a close fit to the OD of the hub flange - any rust in the rotor hat locks the rotor onto the flange.
Timken...
- johnmyster
- Replies: 13
- Forum: Mechanical/Maintenance Forum
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