2012 Honda Accord 160K miles

[Spring Break '92]

I'm not sure dealer would sell you an improved part in this case. They might simply be replacing it with a part that still has the same problem and it's a big job. Replacing the spring with the upgraded spring is the way to go as far as I'm concerned. It's much easier to do and has a greater probability of solving the problem. Why spend $1,500 on labor when you can do it with 1 hours worth of time and less than $100 worth of parts?

Also, is it possibility that the timing chain tensioner is causing the noise because they can also fail in a mode where they do not provide enough tension to the timing chain, especially at startup. There are YouTube videos on this also. It seems that this problem is more likely to be occurring the 2015 and Beyond models. But still it's possible that this is the problem for an earlier model. So if the variable valve actuator spring replacement doesn't solve the problem consider the timing chain tensioner upgrade as per the YouTube videos. It's best to fix this because both of these problems are putting extra strain on the timing chain which could result in it stretching to the point that it has to be replaced at a time interval much shorter than normal.

Replacing the timing chain tensioner is not really a big job because there is a small access cover to get to it. I think there may be some high performance Racing Equipment supply companies the people use whenever they use a K24 as the base for a build that Supply a upgraded design timing chain tensioner but I don't know their names.

Maybe somebody on this site can chime in with a name of a company that would Supply that?

There are several high performance tensioners on the market, but they are expensive. Worth it only if the owner plans to keep the vehicle for the long term. Essential if performance cams are installed. The K series (with turbo) is a common swap into anything imaginable. It’s the new LS swap.

The tensioner coming into play with the rattle is not from the tensioner itself - it’s absolutely the VTC actuator. Some other makes have engines where this is the case. When a Honda K series tensioner fails it will be too late before you figure that out. You are correct though, it is an easy job - BUT, you have to make absolutely certain that once the tension is off of the chain, you do not skip a tooth on the crank gear. Having the valve cover off, and jamming a prybar against the rear of the chain to keep tension after setting the engine to cylinder #1 TDC helps mitigate this from happening.

 

[panthermike]

If bumping grades, I would go at least 5w30. 0w20 to 5w20 isn't much difference.

 

[Spring Break '92]

If bumping grades, I would go at least 5w30. 0w20 to 5w20 isn't much difference.

That wasn’t my point. I was only illustrating that the spectrum of resolutions can be that simple and minute on one end.

 

[kschachn]

That wasn’t my point. I was only illustrating that the spectrum of resolutions can be that simple and minute on one end.

A change in the winter rating qualifies as nonexistent rather than minute.

 

[panthermike]

That wasn’t my point. I was only illustrating that the spectrum of resolutions can be that simple and minute on one end.

I wasn't replying to you sir but I see your point

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

My K24A CR-V is much quieter with 30+ weight. Also burn is less. Never going back to 20 weight in this thing.

If OP is nervous about adding more operating viscosity, look at M1 AFE 0w30, HPL Prem+ 0w30, Amsoil 0w30, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. They’re very light 30 weights.

 

[maverickfhs]

Following....

 

[Spring Break '92]

My K24A CR-V is much quieter with 30+ weight. Also burn is less. Never going back to 20 weight in this thing.

If OP is nervous about adding more operating viscosity, look at M1 AFE 0w30, HPL Prem+ 0w30, Amsoil 0w30, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. They’re very light 30 weights.

Someone posted in another forum that 10W40 took his rattle away. I’ve run grades between 0W20 and 10W30, except 0W30 and 5W40.

For me though, the rattle does not happen, or is very faint or brief the colder it is outside. Even after sitting for more than 12 hours. This is why I think oil thickness plays a big part in the equation.

 

[maverickfhs]

Someone posted in another forum that 10W40 took his rattle away. I’ve run grades between 0W20 and 10W30, except 0W30 and 5W40.

For me though, the rattle does not happen, or is very faint or brief the colder it is outside. Even after sitting for more than 12 hours. This is why I think oil thickness plays a big part in the equation.

Do you think 0W40 or Rotella 5W40 can help ease out on the rattle? Recently changed oil so will have to wait for few months to actually test and experience it, hence the question

 

[Spring Break '92]

Do you think 0W40 or Rotella 5W40 can help ease out on the rattle? Recently changed oil so will have to wait for few months to actually test and experience it, hence the question

I think it would and I also think it’s got a lot to do with how thick the oil is at the cold start. 40 is at the upper limits of what these engines are designed to run from what I understand, even though multi-viscosity oils aren’t true 40 weight oils. I’ve seen VOAs that show that the 0W30’s and I imagine 0W40s have higher kV than some 5W and 10W oils. I’d be concerned about the oil getting through the VVT solenoid and the VTEC screens. In the winter I’d probably wait until at least summer to run a xx-40. I’m in the US, if you’re somewhere like Australia where the seasons are opposite go for it and report back either way.

 

[kschachn]

I think it would and I also think it’s got a lot to do with how thick the oil is at the cold start. 40 is at the upper limits of what these engines are designed to run from what I understand, even though multi-viscosity oils aren’t true 40 weight oils. I’ve seen VOAs that show that the 0W30’s and I imagine 0W40s have higher kV than some 5W and 10W oils. I’d be concerned about the oil getting through the VVT solenoid and the VTEC screens. In the winter I’d probably wait until at least summer to run a xx-40. I’m in the US, if you’re somewhere like Australia where the seasons are opposite go for it and report back either way.

An engine has a design limit for a grade? How does that work? Will it fail on a 50-grade?

And yes a 40-grade is in fact a true 40-grade. If it isn't then what is it? Are you saying it does not meet the viscosity requirements for the grade?

And that part about the VVT solenoid and VTEC screens is just plain silly. You've posted some good ones in the past but these are all gems.

 

[Spring Break '92]

An engine has a design limit for a grade? How does that work? Will it fail on a 50-grade?

And yes a 40-grade is in fact a true 40-grade. If it isn't then what is it? Are you saying it does not meet the viscosity requirements for the grade?

And that part about the VVT solenoid and VTEC screens is just plain silly. You've posted some good ones in the past but these are all gems.

It’s not that it would fail above a certain grade, it’s that depending on the climate, heavier grades may not circulate through the engine as well.

xW40 would be containing additives to make it perform like an SAE 40 at operating temperature, and like a thinner oil at start up. That’s the point of multi viscosity oils.

Oh, really, I have? And who are you? We’ve had no interaction that I can recall. Point me to the ‘gems’ you write about. Yes, the VTEC screens are very fine and can get caked up and block oil flow. It stands to reason that when something drastically heavier at temperature moves through them there could be issues.

 

[kschachn]

It’s not that it would fail above a certain grade, it’s that depending on the climate, heavier grades may not circulate through the engine as well.

xW40 would be containing additives to make it perform like an SAE 40 at operating temperature, and like a thinner oil at start up. That’s the point of multi viscosity oils.

Oh, really, I have? And who are you? We’ve had no interaction that I can recall. Point me to the ‘gems’ you write about. Yes, the VTEC screens are very fine and can get caked up and block oil flow. It stands to reason that when something drastically heavier at temperature moves through them there could be issues.

You have no clue what you're talking about. None.

 

[Spring Break '92]

You have no clue what you're talking about. None.

Sure. All that time to respond and that’s all you can come up with? Yet you make no attempts to educate anyone or show why. Run 20W50 in your Honda this winter and report back.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Depending on your climate, you can safely (and officially) run up to 10W-40 in that. Honda specs a very wide range of viscosities in their engines.

I run Mobil 1 0/40 in all my Honda vehicles. No issues what so ever

 

[Bullwinkle007]

I think it would and I also think it’s got a lot to do with how thick the oil is at the cold start. 40 is at the upper limits of what these engines are designed to run from what I understand, even though multi-viscosity oils aren’t true 40 weight oils. I’ve seen VOAs that show that the 0W30’s and I imagine 0W40s have higher kV than some 5W and 10W oils. I’d be concerned about the oil getting through the VVT solenoid and the VTEC screens. In the winter I’d probably wait until at least summer to run a xx-40. I’m in the US, if you’re somewhere like Australia where the seasons are opposite go for it and report back either way.

No issues with 0/40 or 5/40. Honda euro manuals states 0/20 for best MPG. Overall recommend was 5/40 or 0/40 for all year.

 

[JimPghPA]

There are several high performance tensioners on the market, but they are expensive. Worth it only if the owner plans to keep the vehicle for the long term. Essential if performance cams are installed. The K series (with turbo) is a common swap into anything imaginable. It’s the new LS swap.

The tensioner coming into play with the rattle is not from the tensioner itself - it’s absolutely the VTC actuator. Some other makes have engines where this is the case. When a Honda K series tensioner fails it will be too late before you figure that out. You are correct though, it is an easy job - BUT, you have to make absolutely certain that once the tension is off of the chain, you do not skip a tooth on the crank gear. Having the valve cover off, and jamming a prybar against the rear of the chain to keep tension after setting the engine to cylinder #1 TDC helps mitigate this from happening.

Right on, 100% correct. I was watching a YouTube video of a K24 build yesterday evening and after the guy installed the tensioner he left the pin in on purpose so that he could show someone how the chain got tighter when he pulled the PIN. He put the timing chain cover on without the small cover. And before he pulled the he realized that the chain had skip a tooth on the crank and he had to pull the timing chain cover off again and get the chain back into proper timing. But at least he caught the fact that it had moved before he totally put the engine together. That got me thinking that if I ever do an upgrade of my timing chain tensioner I have to be sure to take the valve cover off and have tension on the chain during the time the original tensioner is removed so there is no way that the cams can get out of phase with the main crank. I wish thinking bungee cords pulling upward on the chain in between the gears for the two cams would work.

 

[fdcg27]

My old 2012 4 cyl is now with my son.
I heard it on a cold start a few months back an it was quite smooth and quiet.
The car is around 140K.
These problems are apparently not universal to the breed.

 

[Spring Break '92]

My old 2012 4 cyl is now with my son.
I heard it on a cold start a few months back an it was quite smooth and quiet.
The car is around 140K.
These problems are apparently not universal to the breed.

Common enough that Honda issued a TSB back then, replacing them under warranty along with the guys in Canada starting a company to remedy the issue. Glad to know that yours doesn’t have it.

 

[fdcg27]

Common enough that Honda issued a TSB back then, replacing them under warranty along with the guys in Canada starting a company to remedy the issue. Glad to know that yours doesn’t have it.

Maybe fixed in the later engines?
Mine was a July 2012 build.