2012 Ford Edge 3.7 AWD Head Gasket Replacement

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Mar 3, 2023
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I recently took apart my engine to replace the water pump. For the most part I considered that it went well, however when I went to torque down the bolts on the water pump it snapped a bolt. Funnily enough I tried to show my wife what was supposed to happen with the torque wrench and I snapped another bolt. So i had to extract two bolts. I went to my hardware store and found replacements, threw some thread locker on them and tightened them down by hand this time around afraid of repeating myself. I also hand tightened the rest of the bolts.

I put everything back together and ran a the car with motor flush for 5 minutes and changed the oil again. The first time the oil seemed pretty watery and I thought, maybe some water cycled through the engine that was sitting somewhere. Then I changed the oil again and drove it around a little bit, maybe about 10-15 minutes and when I parked it the engine was hot, like hot hot and I didn't get an indicator on the dash about it. I was frustrated, swapped out the thermostat and the engine stopped getting hot. I also pulled some oil out into a mason jar to determine if there was still water in the oil and I was inconclusive but thought it did appear watery. So I think that water is pouring out of the new water pump.

But a new symptom arrived, the exhaust started throwing out that sweet smell of burned coolant, and prior to this it had never. My only indicators of a blown water pump was a pressure test and subsequently sudsy oil when I pulled the dipstick. I figured this to be peculiar because it smelled liek coolant burning but there was no coolant in the system only water. I went ahead and concluded that the head gasket had probably blown after I ran the car for a test drive and it got hot. So now I am prepared to take the engine apart again and perhaps tackle the head gasket and try to properly tighten down the water pump. So now I have a couple questions.

I have to take the sprockets off of the VVT connected to the cams. And I have to remove the cams. I can do so, and I understand that the cams have to be installed at their exact timing position, hence the locks I already employed. But now I will be removing the cams, so the locks arent completely necessary if I'm going to remove them.

So I am asking, am I able to mark the position of the cams and everything else. Remember where all the pieces go, remove the head cover, replace the gaskets, and reinstall the cams at the same position without any type of special tools?
 
The oil on these needs to be changed prior to starting after water pump replacement. No exceptions.

you need to have the cam dowels in specific positions when you install them. Then the cam sprockets need to be timed correctly with the secondary chains for each bank. You’ll need the tool to compress the secondary tensioner also. Cam sprocket bolts and balancer bolt are TTY and one time use.

Go to 89 in lbs on the water pump bolts only. It will pull the threads any more than that.

If you search through the “what are you working on today” thread there are a couple 3.7s I built the photos might help you.
 
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The first thing, I learned to do when messing with heads or even just timing belts, is to line up the timing marks with #1 at TDC. Also match mark stuff as you remove it to save confusion when putting it back on. Pictures would help too. I've never done a V 6, just I 4s and 6s. Chances are you can find a You Tube How to if you google. Anything I remove, I mark its position. Wiring and incidental hoses are usually pretty simple to replace. Lay the harness down where it goes and the loose end's gazinta is within the length of its lead. Wires and hoses aren't a centimeter longer than they have to be. :cool:
 
I recently took apart my engine to replace the water pump. For the most part I considered that it went well, however when I went to torque down the bolts on the water pump it snapped a bolt. Funnily enough I tried to show my wife what was supposed to happen with the torque wrench and I snapped another bolt. So i had to extract two bolts. I went to my hardware store and found replacements, threw some thread locker on them and tightened them down by hand this time around afraid of repeating myself. I also hand tightened the rest of the bolts.

I put everything back together and ran a the car with motor flush for 5 minutes and changed the oil again. The first time the oil seemed pretty watery and I thought, maybe some water cycled through the engine that was sitting somewhere. Then I changed the oil again and drove it around a little bit, maybe about 10-15 minutes and when I parked it the engine was hot, like hot hot and I didn't get an indicator on the dash about it. I was frustrated, swapped out the thermostat and the engine stopped getting hot. I also pulled some oil out into a mason jar to determine if there was still water in the oil and I was inconclusive but thought it did appear watery. So I think that water is pouring out of the new water pump.

But a new symptom arrived, the exhaust started throwing out that sweet smell of burned coolant, and prior to this it had never. My only indicators of a blown water pump was a pressure test and subsequently sudsy oil when I pulled the dipstick. I figured this to be peculiar because it smelled liek coolant burning but there was no coolant in the system only water. I went ahead and concluded that the head gasket had probably blown after I ran the car for a test drive and it got hot. So now I am prepared to take the engine apart again and perhaps tackle the head gasket and try to properly tighten down the water pump. So now I have a couple questions.

I have to take the sprockets off of the VVT connected to the cams. And I have to remove the cams. I can do so, and I understand that the cams have to be installed at their exact timing position, hence the locks I already employed. But now I will be removing the cams, so the locks arent completely necessary if I'm going to remove them.

So I am asking, am I able to mark the position of the cams and everything else. Remember where all the pieces go, remove the head cover, replace the gaskets, and reinstall the cams at the same position without any type of special tools?

This is a bigger job than you may think. You have to remove the exhaust flex pipe that ties both manifolds together, both exhaust manifolds (the rear one will be tough without a lift and being AWD), the timing cover, valve covers, all timing components and camshafts. You’ll need the tools to hold the cams together while your torque the cam sprocket bolts. And there’s no way to get around having something hold the secondary tensioner compressed while you install the secondary chain and both cam sprockets as an assembly onto the cams. This applies to each bank.
 
AFAIK, this job might be best done with the powertrain/subframe dropped out of the car. And many can’t do that. I saw @The Critic have to take out a Toyota 2GR-FE 3.5L V6 from underneath a Camry just to service the rear cylinder head.

Fords do call for special tools for the timing chains and cams to be able to properly time things. I say look up the mentioned threads from @mattd and also FordTech Makuloco before deciding to take the job on.
 
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