- Joined
- Mar 3, 2023
- Messages
- 1
I recently took apart my engine to replace the water pump. For the most part I considered that it went well, however when I went to torque down the bolts on the water pump it snapped a bolt. Funnily enough I tried to show my wife what was supposed to happen with the torque wrench and I snapped another bolt. So i had to extract two bolts. I went to my hardware store and found replacements, threw some thread locker on them and tightened them down by hand this time around afraid of repeating myself. I also hand tightened the rest of the bolts.
I put everything back together and ran a the car with motor flush for 5 minutes and changed the oil again. The first time the oil seemed pretty watery and I thought, maybe some water cycled through the engine that was sitting somewhere. Then I changed the oil again and drove it around a little bit, maybe about 10-15 minutes and when I parked it the engine was hot, like hot hot and I didn't get an indicator on the dash about it. I was frustrated, swapped out the thermostat and the engine stopped getting hot. I also pulled some oil out into a mason jar to determine if there was still water in the oil and I was inconclusive but thought it did appear watery. So I think that water is pouring out of the new water pump.
But a new symptom arrived, the exhaust started throwing out that sweet smell of burned coolant, and prior to this it had never. My only indicators of a blown water pump was a pressure test and subsequently sudsy oil when I pulled the dipstick. I figured this to be peculiar because it smelled liek coolant burning but there was no coolant in the system only water. I went ahead and concluded that the head gasket had probably blown after I ran the car for a test drive and it got hot. So now I am prepared to take the engine apart again and perhaps tackle the head gasket and try to properly tighten down the water pump. So now I have a couple questions.
I have to take the sprockets off of the VVT connected to the cams. And I have to remove the cams. I can do so, and I understand that the cams have to be installed at their exact timing position, hence the locks I already employed. But now I will be removing the cams, so the locks arent completely necessary if I'm going to remove them.
So I am asking, am I able to mark the position of the cams and everything else. Remember where all the pieces go, remove the head cover, replace the gaskets, and reinstall the cams at the same position without any type of special tools?
I put everything back together and ran a the car with motor flush for 5 minutes and changed the oil again. The first time the oil seemed pretty watery and I thought, maybe some water cycled through the engine that was sitting somewhere. Then I changed the oil again and drove it around a little bit, maybe about 10-15 minutes and when I parked it the engine was hot, like hot hot and I didn't get an indicator on the dash about it. I was frustrated, swapped out the thermostat and the engine stopped getting hot. I also pulled some oil out into a mason jar to determine if there was still water in the oil and I was inconclusive but thought it did appear watery. So I think that water is pouring out of the new water pump.
But a new symptom arrived, the exhaust started throwing out that sweet smell of burned coolant, and prior to this it had never. My only indicators of a blown water pump was a pressure test and subsequently sudsy oil when I pulled the dipstick. I figured this to be peculiar because it smelled liek coolant burning but there was no coolant in the system only water. I went ahead and concluded that the head gasket had probably blown after I ran the car for a test drive and it got hot. So now I am prepared to take the engine apart again and perhaps tackle the head gasket and try to properly tighten down the water pump. So now I have a couple questions.
I have to take the sprockets off of the VVT connected to the cams. And I have to remove the cams. I can do so, and I understand that the cams have to be installed at their exact timing position, hence the locks I already employed. But now I will be removing the cams, so the locks arent completely necessary if I'm going to remove them.
So I am asking, am I able to mark the position of the cams and everything else. Remember where all the pieces go, remove the head cover, replace the gaskets, and reinstall the cams at the same position without any type of special tools?