2011 Hyundai Tuscan Auto Trans Issues

[pvs2487]

My son's 2011 Hyundai Tuscan (AWD) has 129K miles, and has started experiencing the occasional slippage on acceleration, and likewise rare hesitation going into reverse. The trans fluid hasn't been changed to our knowledge.
As it is a sealed unit, we can't tell if it's low on fluid. I'm happy to try a couple of 'spill and fills', but am worried about making things worse. Our mechanic suggests waiting until things start to get worse and address it then. I'd prefer to do something rather sooner rather than later, assuming that I won't accelerate any issues. There are no stored codes that would suggest solenoid trouble.
I appreciate the wise counsel of those on the forum.

Thanks,
Peter Van Syckle

 

[Egg_Head]

Some 2010 Hyundai's had known valve body issues in the tranny, sticking valve bodies could cause the issues you described. Regardless. changing the fluid now may or may not make a difference. Adding Lube Gard Red or getting medieval and doing a Seafoam Trans Tune treatment may or may not make any difference. Sounds like your indy mechanic is not anxious to dive into the black science of transmission servicing. Unless he has a scanner that can read and diagnose Hyundai GDS transmission codes, I cannot blame him. If you have the ability to change the fluid yourself I personally don't see the harm, Maxlife ATF would be fine here.

 

[pbm]

I'd do 2 or 3 'spill and fills' and see what happens. 129K is a lot of miles on the FF.

 

[GSCJR]

I'd do 2 or 3 'spill and fills' and see what happens. 129K is a lot of miles on the FF.

+1

 

[dadto2]

The torque converter stopped locking up on my 2013 Sorento last fall. Local trans shop didn't just give me the "go away" price, he literally told me to go away lol. So I was able to source a used transmission on https://reman-transmission.com/ for under a grand, and my regular indy shop installed it for about $1300ish. Everything back to normal again.

 

[Ault 416]

I just sold a 2011 Tucson with 238k and my son drives a 2013 with 115k on the clock. In my opinion the transmissions in these vehicles are pretty reliable. I would do 3 drain and fills and see if it takes care of the problem. Asin SP4 is around 8 bucks a quart. I did the first drain and fill on both around 90k and 30k thereafter.

 

[Propflux01]

While I dot recommend "snake oils" for engines and tranny's, Lubegard Red actually works. But as others have staed, drain and fill a couple times. If you want to go cheap, Maxlife, if you want to go OEM-ish, KIA and Aisin fluid both work great, and is cheaper. these trannys are not sealed per se, you just have to service them from underneath.

 

[pvs2487]

Thanks so much for the great advice! I'll plan to do the next 'spill and fill' next week.
Is the best way to determine the proper level to replace the amount that drains out, or is there a preferred method?

Thanks again!

Peter

 

[walterjay]

I warm up the transmission with a short drive and then drain it out.

Refill until it just runs out the side fill hole.

I never trust that the factory was filled correctly.

 

[Egg_Head]

Thanks so much for the great advice! I'll plan to do the next 'spill and fill' next week.
Is the best way to determine the proper level to replace the amount that drains out, or is there a preferred method?

Thanks again!

Peter

Shift through the gears several times if you are allowing the ATF to heat up while idling, i.e. PNRL-LRNP

 

[Propflux01]

Thanks so much for the great advice! I'll plan to do the next 'spill and fill' next week.
Is the best way to determine the proper level to replace the amount that drains out, or is there a preferred method?

Thanks again!

Peter

There is a drain plug and in front of tranny on the pan is a black plug. That is where you fill it. Use a quart pump. Fill until it flows out. Start engine. When fluid gets about 135*F, pump more in until it starts to drip out. Here is a video that explains it, you might have a top plug for fill, but it is way quicker to do it from underneath.: