Oops sorry.You quoted the wrong person.
I see we are in agreement
Oops sorry.You quoted the wrong person.
Yes sir!Oops sorry.
I see we are in agreement
Your battery is probably on its way out. Change your battery and see if it fixes the issue. Had the same issue on my wife's 2017 SF 3.3L V6 and on my mother's (same make/model/year). Swapping the batteries for Die Hard AGM batteries fixed the issue. It's CVVT related, they actuators don't have enough voltage at startup to lock the pins so they rattle. Good luck!
That would be a huge coincidence since I fixed this issue in two Hyundais the same way. Actually it was because of my mother's Sanata de that i figured it out. Her battery was in worse shape, so it was rattling even if it was off for a couple of hours, then it went down to 30 minutes or so. Her battery finally died and we had to actually jump start it. So I replaced the battery and it never rattled again. My wife's battery was in better shape, so it rattled only every now and then. Before I got to this point I upped the oil viscosity to 0W-40 but it didn't make a difference. It's weird, but in our case it was battery related. Since I swapped batteries i have not heard either engine rattle at startup. Also, the batteries on these Santa Fes are really small, smaller than in the Sonata and even the 2.4 Santa Fe Sport, because they only had so much room to spare under the hood. Before I got to this point, my wife's car spent a week at the dealership, and they tested everything except the battery and couldn't figure it out. They were about to take the valve covers off and manually measure the oil pressure (instructed to do this by Hyundai Techline). Me and the technician working on our car agreed it was nonsense, so i just to look the vehicle home. I'm just trying to help others here.Sorry, but this makes absolutely zero sense. They are mechanical, driven by oil pressure. The solenoids that control the oil flow to them are controlled by the ECM. You’d have to have a reference voltage issue to the VCT solenoids.
That would be a huge coincidence since I fixed this issue in two Hyundais the same way. Actually it was because of my mother's Sanata de that i figured it out. Her battery was in worse shape, so it was rattling even if it was off for a couple of hours, then it went down to 30 minutes or so. Her battery finally died and we had to actually jump start it. So I replaced the battery and it never rattled again. My wife's battery was in better shape, so it rattled only every now and then. Before I got to this point I upped the oil viscosity to 0W-40 but it didn't make a difference. It's weird, but in our case it was battery related. Since I swapped batteries i have not heard either engine rattle at startup. Also, the batteries on these Santa Fes are really small, smaller than in the Sonata and even the 2.4 Santa Fe Sport, because they only had so much room to spare under the hood. Before I got to this point, my wife's car spent a week at the dealership, and they tested everything except the battery and couldn't figure it out. They were about to take the valve covers off and manually measure the oil pressure (instructed to do this by Hyundai Techline). Me and the technician working on our car agreed it was nonsense, so i just to look the vehicle home. I'm just trying to help others here.
And I believe you 100% and in fact I thought that that's what was going with our motors. Yet, since I swapped batteries, no more startup rattle. How do you explain that?VVT actuator drainback/wear has nothing to do with the battery.
I know...........VVT actuator drainback/wear has nothing to do with the battery.
How long has it been since you replaced the battery?
This can easily be tested with a pair of jumper cables. If nothing changes, at least it was tried—no need to buy a new battery.I know...........
It does sound like cam phasers not locking. Very similar to the noise my Honda 2.4 will make on occasion (rarely) that IS the VTC actuator. I know for the Honda K24 it seems to be a non issue for most owners. Many have the rattle for years with zero issue. Mine is more pronounced in the winter, and only lasts for a split second.
I don’t know enough about Hyundai’s V6 to really add anything of value, but it seems unlikely to me that the timing chain or tensioner would be the culprit as such low miles.
How long ago was the battery replaced?This can easily be tested with a pair of jumper cables. If nothing changes, at least it was tried—no need to buy a new battery.
Nice thoughtful post with some viable suggestions. As an owner with the rattle I will try some of your ideas! THANK YOU!Interesting... like the radio that pauses or switches off when cranking, maybe cranking voltage is delaying VVT solenoid function or ECU signaling current on some engines. Or, maybe cranking speed gets oil primed and pumping quicker. Glad that none of my batteries makes it past 4 years in the southern heat.
If the engine is running fine, you live with it.
If there are VVT screens, you remove and clean or replace them.
Test VVT solenoid function on the bench, if equipped.
Biggest issue I've seen is partially clogged screens or varnished/crud'd solenoids.
Once the mechanical damage or wear is done, not much you can do but replace worn out or broken parts.
Mask the noise.
With my troubleshooting of VVT start up noise, I keep changing variables until I find a combo that works for the owner. Sure cheaper than thousands in repairs since it'll simple chug along with normal maintenance while substituting brands, grades, filters, additives.
Quicker oil flow... maybe skip the cellulose media and use full synthetic media. Alternate among filters and see if any make a difference.
Quicker oil flow... use a thinner full synthetic oil, if grade is recommended. For example, if it calls for 5w30, use a 0w30. If it calls for 5w20, use a 0w20.
Or, slower oil drain back.... the opposite.... use a thicker oil that drains back slower. If it calls for a US 5w30, use a Euro or high HTHS 5w30, or step up to a 0w40 or 5w40, weather permitting since I don't care what owners manuals recommend for grades anymore.
Additives.... some seem to keep things moving better than others. Add a bottle of Lubegard Biotech, STP synthetic gold bottle, Rislone Nano, BG MOA, or even Tufoil to an interval and see if it makes a difference. They might free something up with cleaning.
For filters, don't get hung up on an OE filter. Most are nothing special. Use a full synthetic media oil filter from Amsoil, RoyalPurple, NapaPlatinum, WixXP, Purolator Boss, or the Fram Ultra/Titanium. Maybe one will reduce the startup rattle. Maybe the unrestricted flow of a stainless mesh filter, like gopurepower or hubb, will let the oil move more quickly thru the engine.
When its an intermittent issue, then there is a variable that is not accounted for. It doesn't automatically mean that its a drain back issue, a solenoid/battery issue, oil or filter flow issue, or crud/debris/varnish, or a non-parking VVT issue, or wear. And, I wouldn't blindly trust a dealer or mechanic that wants to spend more on parts/labor than what the engine is worth, only to have the issue repeat 30k miles later.
Things to help the engine run better..... new pcv valve, FI PEA based cleaner with toptier fuel, new spark plugs, new airfilter, cleaned throttlebody, fresh ATF/PSF, new coolant/thermostat/radiator cap..... This should help in keep moisture/fuel out of the oil, getting engine up to temp quickly, keeping all running good, and hopefully not add impurities to the sump.
In my mother's 2017 Santa Fe SE it was replaced in October 2020, and my wife's (same make/model/year) was replaced at the beginning of this month. So I had some time to compare the two. The engine in my mother's car stopped rattling immediately after the battery was replaced, my wife's continued until I replaced it. Both got Die Hard AGM batteries, size 124R. Also, the rattling happened right after the engine started. The Hyundai tech noticed this as well. I let the tech know that the battery made the rattle go away, and he said that it's very much possible because he's seen other issues with these engines that are caused by a weak battery or one that's on its way out, namely injector issues. I hope this helps.How long ago was the battery replaced?
you could try draining a quart of oil out and adding a quart of mystery oil
I meant to say, take the mystery oil and pour it into a new battery. Haha.
I meant to say, take the mystery oil and pour it into a new battery. Haha.
I bought this for a 2011 santa Fe 3.5.
It had a bad phaser rattle on cold start up.
I only used the actuator part because the pulley was different on my car.
This piece was steel rather than the factory aluminum. But it fixed the problem . It was a big job but it was worth it.
Good product. But it does not fit a kia Sorento 2011. I had to disassemble the gear wheel and use the old gear wheel to make it fit.