Originally Posted By: volk06
I would try a run of Synpower. It has had the best uoa from DI engines.
volk06, what about RP?
I would try a run of Synpower. It has had the best uoa from DI engines.
volk06, what about RP?
2010 Buick LaCrosse - Penz Platinum 5w30 - 10,569m
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Originally Posted By: Tucson Five-O
I'm seeing, as others such as Aberns & RBarrios have stated, that this flavor of DI engine, is a fuel-diluting pig, in contrast to the Ford DI engines.
Having said that, I'm speculating that you either:
1. Switch to an oil that is more fuel-tolerant, such as VWB...
This is what I would do as well! Rbarrios has had impressive results with it!
I'm seeing, as others such as Aberns & RBarrios have stated, that this flavor of DI engine, is a fuel-diluting pig, in contrast to the Ford DI engines.
Having said that, I'm speculating that you either:
1. Switch to an oil that is more fuel-tolerant, such as VWB...
This is what I would do as well! Rbarrios has had impressive results with it!
GTX also deals well with fuel. GTX Synblend would meet Dexos specs and provide protection against fuel dilution.
With proper oil change intervals, fuel should be a non-issue. Follow published severe service intervals rather than the OLM.
With proper oil change intervals, fuel should be a non-issue. Follow published severe service intervals rather than the OLM.
I have the GM 3.6DI (LLT) in my Outlook. It's had high iron as well. There was a timing chain issue with these engines for certain model years (VIN breaks apply). An OLM recalibration was also circulating for applicable VIN's. The OLM is far more aggressive now and has pretty much precluded me from using any synthetic or trying to do any longer OCI's. The OLM is now dropping to zero at around 5000KM, which is rediculous in itself.
I previously did some longer runs with my 3.6DI but that engine seems to beat up on the oil pretty good. A thicker or more robust oil may suit you well. I know this may go against the grain, but perhaps shorter runs with a dino oil may bring some results.
I previously did some longer runs with my 3.6DI but that engine seems to beat up on the oil pretty good. A thicker or more robust oil may suit you well. I know this may go against the grain, but perhaps shorter runs with a dino oil may bring some results.
NOTICE that the posts on oil filters are missing since they were off topic and we asked to keep it on subject of the UOA.
Please do not repost!
Please do not repost!
On the UOA, it is good to see the PP actually end the OCI with a higher TBN than the M1-EP. Are 10k oci normal for the GM engine? Is this with the new OLM or old version?
Bill, could you go back and clean up the first half, too? Apologies for reacting to them and wandering into another section.
I'd say that you have made a good choice on oil and filter, but I'd be interested in seeing if that iron is a commonplace amount for your engine type.
Bill, could you go back and clean up the first half, too? Apologies for reacting to them and wandering into another section.
I'd say that you have made a good choice on oil and filter, but I'd be interested in seeing if that iron is a commonplace amount for your engine type.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
NOTICE that the posts on oil filters are missing since they were off topic and we asked to keep it on subject of the UOA.
Please do not repost!
Thanks Bill, but why was only 1 post transferred over to the oil filter section?
NOTICE that the posts on oil filters are missing since they were off topic and we asked to keep it on subject of the UOA.
Please do not repost!
Thanks Bill, but why was only 1 post transferred over to the oil filter section?
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
NOTICE that the posts on oil filters are missing since they were off topic and we asked to keep it on subject of the UOA.
Please do not repost!
Thanks Bill, but why was only 1 post transferred over to the oil filter section?
He STARTED a new thread with the same content.
End of filter discussion in this thread...
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
NOTICE that the posts on oil filters are missing since they were off topic and we asked to keep it on subject of the UOA.
Please do not repost!
Thanks Bill, but why was only 1 post transferred over to the oil filter section?
He STARTED a new thread with the same content.
End of filter discussion in this thread...
What were the conditions when you sampled this oil? Did you get the oil nice and hot to blow off any condensation? I am thinking that may be the problem with the % of water.
I think you need to back off the OCI to 7500.
And go through the air intake, vacuum hoses for any way dirty air could be getting in. Get the high silicon down some to bring down the iron.
I think you need to back off the OCI to 7500.
And go through the air intake, vacuum hoses for any way dirty air could be getting in. Get the high silicon down some to bring down the iron.
If you still have all the filters from this and past OCIs, maybe you could cut them open and see if there are any bigger wear items to be seen. If you do, I am sure people would love to see them over in the filter section.
It seems that people are continually trying to correlate UOA and Filtopsies. This would be a good one to cut if those iron numbers have you worried.
It seems that people are continually trying to correlate UOA and Filtopsies. This would be a good one to cut if those iron numbers have you worried.
How about a run down to 10-15% OLM and see how that works?
Curious why M1EP warrants a green check at 1.9 TBN but PP gets a yellow warning triangle at 2.0 TBN.
Curious why M1EP warrants a green check at 1.9 TBN but PP gets a yellow warning triangle at 2.0 TBN.
Salv,
There is no severe/normal service intervals for GMs (or for Fords with the IOLM, for that matter). All of that is taken into account by OLM.
More severe operating conditions such as below optimum oil temperatures caused by cold weather operation, short trips, extensive idling, etc. cause the OLM to "tick" down quicker. Many posters here have commented on observing their various GM OLMs clicking down much quicker in the winter than in the summer.
That is why I always make suggestions concerning a GM OCI in context of the OLM %, as opposed to mileage, aka reducing it to 50%, and incrementally adjusting up 10% each time, for instance.
GMs OLM is a great system for the most part. I wish all vehicles had one. Then you pick the oil of your choice, within warranty parameters of course, and "dial" it in with the OLM.
Take care,
Gary
There is no severe/normal service intervals for GMs (or for Fords with the IOLM, for that matter). All of that is taken into account by OLM.
More severe operating conditions such as below optimum oil temperatures caused by cold weather operation, short trips, extensive idling, etc. cause the OLM to "tick" down quicker. Many posters here have commented on observing their various GM OLMs clicking down much quicker in the winter than in the summer.
That is why I always make suggestions concerning a GM OCI in context of the OLM %, as opposed to mileage, aka reducing it to 50%, and incrementally adjusting up 10% each time, for instance.
GMs OLM is a great system for the most part. I wish all vehicles had one. Then you pick the oil of your choice, within warranty parameters of course, and "dial" it in with the OLM.
Take care,
Gary
Originally Posted By: Tucson Five-O
Salv,
There is no severe/normal service intervals for GMs (or for Fords with the IOLM, for that matter). All of that is taken into account by OLM.
More severe operating conditions such as below optimum oil temperatures caused by cold weather operation, short trips, extensive idling, etc. cause the OLM to "tick" down quicker. Many posters here have commented on observing their various GM OLMs clicking down much quicker in the winter than in the summer.
That is why I always make suggestions concerning a GM OCI in context of the OLM %, as opposed to mileage, aka reducing it to 50%, and incrementally adjusting up 10% each time, for instance.
GMs OLM is a great system for the most part. I wish all vehicles had one. Then you pick the oil of your choice, within warranty parameters of course, and "dial" it in with the OLM.
Take care,
Gary
If I owned a vehicle with an Oil Change Monitor I would probably disconnect it or put tape over the display.
Salv,
There is no severe/normal service intervals for GMs (or for Fords with the IOLM, for that matter). All of that is taken into account by OLM.
More severe operating conditions such as below optimum oil temperatures caused by cold weather operation, short trips, extensive idling, etc. cause the OLM to "tick" down quicker. Many posters here have commented on observing their various GM OLMs clicking down much quicker in the winter than in the summer.
That is why I always make suggestions concerning a GM OCI in context of the OLM %, as opposed to mileage, aka reducing it to 50%, and incrementally adjusting up 10% each time, for instance.
GMs OLM is a great system for the most part. I wish all vehicles had one. Then you pick the oil of your choice, within warranty parameters of course, and "dial" it in with the OLM.
Take care,
Gary
If I owned a vehicle with an Oil Change Monitor I would probably disconnect it or put tape over the display.
This is a 2010 3.6.
If its like the 3.6 in the Traverse/Acadia/Enclave--- than it most likely is doing about 100 miles per 1% of the OLM.
Thats what my 2010 does.
But I only run 5000 mile intervals which equal roughly 50% OLM.
Im still running VWB in my Traverse.
Now- on the Acadias/Traverse/Enclaves for 2009- those vehicle that had UOA with high iron-- I believe those were also the vehicles that had timing chains "stretching".. which was actually wear.
For 2010 the timing chain issue has been all but corrected. Though I have seen 1 or 2 post of owners needing new chains.
So I wonder- if this is the cause of your high iron.
What I would do...
I would switch to regular Valvoline. Run for about 2000-3000 miles.
Then drain and refill and run for 5000 miles. And test... see what iron does.
If its like the 3.6 in the Traverse/Acadia/Enclave--- than it most likely is doing about 100 miles per 1% of the OLM.
Thats what my 2010 does.
But I only run 5000 mile intervals which equal roughly 50% OLM.
Im still running VWB in my Traverse.
Now- on the Acadias/Traverse/Enclaves for 2009- those vehicle that had UOA with high iron-- I believe those were also the vehicles that had timing chains "stretching".. which was actually wear.
For 2010 the timing chain issue has been all but corrected. Though I have seen 1 or 2 post of owners needing new chains.
So I wonder- if this is the cause of your high iron.
What I would do...
I would switch to regular Valvoline. Run for about 2000-3000 miles.
Then drain and refill and run for 5000 miles. And test... see what iron does.
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Wondering what wear parts contain iron in a modern GM engine. Mostly aluminum, copper, and tin today. May be time for an alternate UOA from Blackstone to compare readings.
Timing chains, associated gears and some other bits that you would hope don't wear? I haven't had a modern engine apart to answer with authority.
Obviously the brand of oil isn't the issue and trying to treat it as such will not resolve the wear.
100 ppm iron would be UNACCEPTBLE unless car has 250k+ for me.
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