2009 honda accord oil change

[ecotourist]

I have a 2007 V6 Accord.

I use the cheapest brand name API SM, GF-4 conventional oil I can find. The oil monitor insists on a change right around 8000 Km (5000 miles) and it would seem (to me anyway) to be a waste to dump synthetic after so few miles. I'm currently using Mobil Super 1000 5W-20.

I've just started using HAMP (Honda After Market Parts) oil filters. They're made by Filtech USA and look exactly like Honda Filters made by Filtech (except they're painted green).

Tourist

PS I'm not opposed to using good oil. I use GC 0w30 in my 2000 BMW 528i. It has a big sump and I change it every 12,000 Km or once a year.

 

[09rexwagon]

Originally Posted By: ecotourist
I have a 2007 V6 Accord.

I use the cheapest brand name API SM, GF-4 conventional oil I can find. The oil monitor insists on a change right around 8000 Km (5000 miles) and it would seem (to me anyway) to be a waste to dump synthetic after so few miles. I'm currently using Mobil Super 1000 5W-20.

I've just started using HAMP (Honda After Market Parts) oil filters. They're made by Filtech USA and look exactly like Honda Filters made by Filtech (except they're painted green).

Tourist

PS I'm not opposed to using good oil. I use GC 0w30 in my 2000 BMW 528i. It has a big sump and I change it every 12,000 Km or once a year.
I thought HAMPs were made in Japan by Toyo Roki?

 

[ecotourist]

[/quote]I thought HAMPs were made in Japan by Toyo Roki? [/quote]

It says "Filtech Inc, Assembled in USA" on the filter. It says "Made in USA" on the box. I suppose that could mean something other than "this oil filter is made by Filtech".

Either way they ought to be good filters.

Ecotourist

 

[BuickGN]

Go for the syn. Worrying about a non approved super high quality oil like Amsoil and warranty claims would be the last thing on my mind in this car.

I went with Amsoil ACD 30wt monograde from the beginning to 76,000 miles and recently switched to Redline 10w30. Here's what mine looks like (J32) at 77,000mi, kind of makes the case for switching to a quality syn from the beginning instead of waiting until the warranty period is over.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
I have a 2007 V6 Accord.

I use the cheapest brand name API SM, GF-4 conventional oil I can find. The oil monitor insists on a change right around 8000 Km (5000 miles) and it would seem (to me anyway) to be a waste to dump synthetic after so few miles. I'm currently using Mobil Super 1000 5W-20.

I've just started using HAMP (Honda After Market Parts) oil filters. They're made by Filtech USA and look exactly like Honda Filters made by Filtech (except they're painted green).

Tourist

PS I'm not opposed to using good oil. I use GC 0w30 in my 2000 BMW 528i. It has a big sump and I change it every 12,000 Km or once a year.
I thought HAMPs were made in Japan by Toyo Roki?


Some of them are made in Japan, some aren't. The ones I have are made in Japan but I have seen the ones he's talking about, made by Filtech in USA as well.

 

[Bruce T]

I've always heard Japanese engines are not completely broken in until 10,000-12,000 miles. On my 2009 Civic Hybrid, the dealer told me not to change the factory fill at any less than 5,000 miles. I would change now with Honda oil, switch to synthetic at 10,000 miles, then start using the OLM for changes. Mobil 1 0W20 is very good, but I would learn towards AMSOIL, Red Line, or RLI (not 100% synthetic, but supposed to wear like it).

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: Bruce T
I've always heard Japanese engines are not completely broken in until 10,000-12,000 miles. On my 2009 Civic Hybrid, the dealer told me not to change the factory fill at any less than 5,000 miles. I would change now with Honda oil, switch to synthetic at 10,000 miles, then start using the OLM for changes. Mobil 1 0W20 is very good, but I would learn towards AMSOIL, Red Line, or RLI (not 100% synthetic, but supposed to wear like it).


The engine is 90% broken-in in the first 30 minutes of operation. Nothing wrong with using synthetic for it's first change.

 

[Bruce T]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
The engine is 90% broken-in in the first 30 minutes of operation. Nothing wrong with using synthetic for it's first change.


That's probably true, but I can only adjust to one paradigm shift at a time. It's already killing me not to change the oil early.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: Bruce T
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
The engine is 90% broken-in in the first 30 minutes of operation. Nothing wrong with using synthetic for it's first change.


That's probably true, but I can only adjust to one paradigm shift at a time. It's already killing me not to change the oil early.


I'm pretty sure not changing it out early has to do with the moly in the oil. You would likely be fine if you changed it early with another oil with a good dose of moly.

 

[Bruce T]

Would you still need the moly after 5,000 miles?

 

[bepperb]

No, you probably wouldn't need the moly after 500 miles.

Honda brand oil, with the exception of made in Japan 0w-20, is just Exxon SuperFlo and doesn't have any more moly than anything else. The moly is more likely from the assembly lube of the engine than the factory fill. It's importance after the initial few miles isn't much.

 

[Bill in Utah]

I'd run whatever API rated 5w-20 oil and follow the OLM.

My Dad has a Honda powered 3.5l Vue and does just that. Has a little over 85k on it and it runs very well.

Here is a photo shot from the oil filler cap.

Oil used? Lets see.. Mobil 5000, QS, Pennzoil conventional, Halvoline DS and lately Castrol GTX. All in the 5w-20 conventional. He has a few cases of Chevron that we picked up for 99 cents to $1.99 a quart and will be running that for quite a few OCIs.

Filters used have been only Supertech ST7317 or a few Frams. (some oil deals you buy 5 qts and a filter for $9.99 - $14.99 around here)

Honda's are real easy on the oil. I'd worry about something else.

Take care, bill

PS: Quite a few previous threads on the same question.. Here is one for the Honda --> What oil for Honda 3.5l (I know that Honda builds 3.5l for their SUV and another for Cars. IMO it does not matter as far as oil)

 

[wgtoys]

Seeing that you are in Nebraska, I would go the Mobil 1 0W-20 route at least in the Winter. Anything you can do to make those cold winter starts a little easier on the engine seems like a good idea to me.

I think the Honda OLM starts warning you to get an oil change soon when it gets to 15%.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I'd run whatever API rated 5w-20 oil and follow the OLM.

My Dad has a Honda powered 3.5l Vue and does just that. Has a little over 85k on it and it runs very well.

Here is a photo shot from the oil filler cap.

Oil used? Lets see.. Mobil 5000, QS, Pennzoil conventional, Halvoline DS and lately Castrol GTX. All in the 5w-20 conventional. He has a few cases of Chevron that we picked up for 99 cents to $1.99 a quart and will be running that for quite a few OCIs.

Filters used have been only Supertech ST7317 or a few Frams. (some oil deals you buy 5 qts and a filter for $9.99 - $14.99 around here)

Honda's are real easy on the oil. I'd worry about something else.

Take care, bill

PS: Quite a few previous threads on the same question.. Here is one for the Honda --> What oil for Honda 3.5l (I know that Honda builds 3.5l for their SUV and another for Cars. IMO it does not matter as far as oil)


I have to admit, that looks very good and with dino no doubt. I guess I'll have to post more pics when the mileage doubles or triples.

 

[008wagon]

well since i have great luck with the amsoil ow-20 asm in my 2008 hemi i ordered a case of it for the truck and car . i will be using the eao13 for a oil filter on the honda. i just think that you can never have enough protection in a engine and for what a new rig costs might as well huh?