Double post, please delete.
2005 honda crv coolant leak/heating issues
- Thread starter frisco
- Start date
Compression could be getting into the cooling system.
Get the radiator full then start the engine cold with the radiator cap off and rev it. There should be no bubbling or other motion of the fluid in the radiator until the engine warms up.
Plastic radiators are prone to crack after about 15 years, so you're due.
The factory spring clamps are reusable. If your third party hoses are thicker wall than the original ones, the clamps may not fit very well, but the same thing would happen with new clamps the same size from the dealer.
In sub zero (F) weather you may need to block some of the airflow through the grille to keep heat in the engine. This is also a workaround for thermostat stuck partly open.
Something occured to me while looking at your photo. You could also have some crusting around the upper radiator inlet preventing a good seal. Remove the hose, clean the area if required, install a new clamp, correct coolant levels and re-check at operating temperature. Be careful when the cooling fan cycles.
I live 75 miles south of Winnipeg Manitoba in the states. I noticed a couple days ago my daughters 2003 Crv was leaking from the top hose and atf from the rubber radiator atf return line. The cold had shrunk the fittings or maybe the rubber was so hard it couldn’t seal, I don’t know but I tightened them up and it fixed the issue. I’ve seen this before in cold snaps (below -25f) if your car is blowing the coolant into the overflow it might have a head gasket failure, you should check the coolant for exhaust, any auto parts store will sell the test. if you have a leak in the return line your coolant will expand and flow into the overflow but not have suction to draw the coolant from the overflow back to the radiator once the engine is off and cooling, so that could be it too (hopefully). I would tighten everything up and see if that doesn’t stop the leaks. The bubbling is troubling but if there is not pressure in the system when it’s cool it could just be air trapped in the coolant (thinking positively).
I typically try the cheap/free solutions 1st and move on.
I typically try the cheap/free solutions 1st and move on.
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Thanks, I still have the factory spring clamps on upper and lower hoses. There is a crack on the the return line to the reserve tank. SO hopefully that is the reason why coolant is flowing back. Noticed it while I removed the plastic trim that fits over the rad. Also there is coolant residue under the that trim battery side so its leaking from the upper hose/inlet area as well.
New radiator and hoses should be here tomorrow from rockauto.
Alright, little update.
Managed to swap in the new denso radiator, along with upper/lower gates hoses, oem spring clamps, thermostat, radiator cap, and replaced the reserve tank hose.
So far the temp on torque pro app stays at 77-78C. Does not dip into the 60s like before. If it matters the ambient temp outside is -14C/6F
However, the radiator fan does not kick on, I parked the car, idled for 15mins and the temp will slowly go to 85C with the heater off. I noticed steam coming out of the grill, but most likely from the water. I rinse off the bottom where the rad sits, and the plastic undertray. It contained coolant and some atf fluid from when I removed the hose from the cooler. Didn't try to go any higher. Not another expense =(
Managed to swap in the new denso radiator, along with upper/lower gates hoses, oem spring clamps, thermostat, radiator cap, and replaced the reserve tank hose.
So far the temp on torque pro app stays at 77-78C. Does not dip into the 60s like before. If it matters the ambient temp outside is -14C/6F
However, the radiator fan does not kick on, I parked the car, idled for 15mins and the temp will slowly go to 85C with the heater off. I noticed steam coming out of the grill, but most likely from the water. I rinse off the bottom where the rad sits, and the plastic undertray. It contained coolant and some atf fluid from when I removed the hose from the cooler. Didn't try to go any higher. Not another expense =(
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Can it be too cold outside for the cooling fan to come on?
Check your electrical connections from the rad swap then, turn off the HVAC; this will allow coolant temperature to rise and verify operation.
Alternatively, the system is running efficiently now with the new components installed that fan operation is not being commanded on by the ECU. I can't remember if this model commands the rad fan with defrost on or only the condenser fan (ambient temperature permitting); if it does, you can verfify radiator fan operation by turning on the defrost.
Alternatively, the system is running efficiently now with the new components installed that fan operation is not being commanded on by the ECU. I can't remember if this model commands the rad fan with defrost on or only the condenser fan (ambient temperature permitting); if it does, you can verfify radiator fan operation by turning on the defrost.
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Turn your a/c on, it should activate both fans even if your temp sensor is bad ( at least it does with our crv’s) no matter what the coolant temp is. Also did you install the temp sensor into the new radiator? When new, It’s plugged, so you can fill it up without the sensor. My daughter had a shop replace her radiator once and they never installed the sensor so no cooling fan, it overheated of course and I fixed it for her. It sounds silly but it happens.
So this is how I’d troubleshoot it.
1st- check the temp switch to make sure it is installed and plugged in properly.
2nd- turn on your ac to max make sure the ac light is on.
if both fans come on (cooling fan/condenser fan)it’s most likely the switch.
if only one fan comes on you may have a bad Cooling fan, wiring ect...
So this is how I’d troubleshoot it.
1st- check the temp switch to make sure it is installed and plugged in properly.
2nd- turn on your ac to max make sure the ac light is on.
if both fans come on (cooling fan/condenser fan)it’s most likely the switch.
if only one fan comes on you may have a bad Cooling fan, wiring ect...
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A those temps all sorts of things happen, leaking connections are very common, fans not coming on is normal with many engines especially aluminum ones, they shed a lot of heat so much so at that temp the engine coolant will not reach the thermo switch temp to turn them on.
Turning the A/C on will not turn the fans or compressor on if ambient temps are under 40f (common setting).
The heater core is acting like a small radiator and you are blowing air over it with a fan.
A none pressurized system will certainly get up to temperature in fact it will overheat at a lower temp. I have found using Hylomar on the connections will prevent leaks due to cold permanently (or until the hose is removed then it needs to be reapplied). A constant tension clamp, either OE style spring style or worm with belleville washer springs are a must, regular worm clamps leak like crazy when the temps drop to zero and below.
Now you have the rad installed and its not leaking or overheating and you have cabin heat dont do anything else to it, wait till the weather warms and see if you have any issues, I would bet you dont.
Yep, just replaced my radiator in my 2011 Avalon.
The temp sensor is installed. I removed and reconnected the plug. Before the 3 weeks of -30Cs and leak, I could hear the radiator fan come on when idle, waiting for my son at the bus stop.
Last night I turned the AC on, not to max just pressed the a/c button and 1 fan turned on. This was when the key was in the ON. Weird thing is when I was idling and letting it warm up last night the temp hit 85C on my torque app. I tried the max AC when the car was idle, the condenser fan did not come on. It was blowing pretty cold air.
Maybe Ill check the relay. Can trapped air in the system prevent hitting operating temp?
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Normal operation for Honda; they cycle often.
Also normal; ambient temperature was cold enough to simulate A/C.
Yes, an air pocket in the area of the coolant temperature sensor may have an effect of fan operation; coolant must be present for the sensor to perform it's function.
Thank you, I will try and burp the coolant again.
So the ac fan wont kick in all the time? Only when the compressor activates? Sorry total noob to this. Since it was cold, it didnt need to cycle the compressor? Hence no need for the fan?
No problem, sounds like a plan. Does this model have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing? Most Hondas did. You can bleed it there for increased efficacy.
Yes, fan activiation is only with the compressor engagement on this model.
Correct, if ambient temperature is below a predeterminded cold temperature, the compressor is programmed not to engage to prevent it self desctructing.
Let me know if you have any more questions
Yes, fan activiation is only with the compressor engagement on this model.
Correct, if ambient temperature is below a predeterminded cold temperature, the compressor is programmed not to engage to prevent it self desctructing.
Let me know if you have any more questions
On gen 2 crv’s if the ac is on, both fans will be activated. I believe yours is a gen 3 so it might be different. Also there might be a cold temp lock out. It’s really too cold to count on your temp switch activating the cooling fan, my daughter had hers fixed over the winter and it didn’t show any signs of problems until late summer when it over heated in traffic. The temp fix was to turn on her ac so both fans ran constantly.
Cold weather complicates everything!
Cold weather complicates everything!
Thank you! I'm not sure if it had a bleeder nipple, I didn't notice anything. I remember my brothers old integra had one. My friend has one of those spill free coolant funnels, suppose to help with trapped air pockets. An excuse to drive 30 mins to his place maybe it will kick on then lol.
It's not overheating and the temp is just under the middle so I shouldn't worry yet. I realized while rinsing the under tray, I did rinse the battery tray since there was a lot of crap down there. Ill check the fuse box if water got in.
Yes cold does complicates everything! I believe they consider the 2005-2006 a gen 2.5. It got a 5speed auto vs 2002-2004 4speed. I saw a youtube video someone with the same year and his fan didn't kick in until 100C/212F and turned off at 96C/205F. At this temp his temp needle was same place mine is, just under the half way point.
I was afraid at 85C/185F on my torque app, i thought that was too high. I guess I'll try and burp first and go from there.
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