- Jan 20, 2013
- Ontario, Canada
Double post, please delete.
Compression could be getting into the cooling system.
I live 75 miles south of Winnipeg Manitoba in the states. I noticed a couple days ago my daughters 2003 Crv was leaking from the top hose and atf from the rubber radiator atf return line. The cold had shrunk the fittings or maybe the rubber was so hard it couldn’t seal, I don’t know but I tightened them up and it fixed the issue. I’ve seen this before in cold snaps (below -25f) if your car is blowing the coolant into the overflow it might have a head gasket failure, you should check the coolant for exhaust, any auto parts store will sell the test. if you have a leak in the return line your coolant will expand and flow into the overflow but not have suction to draw the coolant from the overflow back to the radiator once the engine is off and cooling, so that could be it too (hopefully). I would tighten everything up and see if that doesn’t stop the leaks. The bubbling is troubling but if there is not pressure in the system when it’s cool it could just be air trapped in the coolant (thinking positively).
I typically try the cheap/free solutions 1st and move on.
Good morning bitogers!
We have been experiencing extremely cold weathers past 3 weeks in Manitoba, avg high - 26C avg low -35C. I've notice a leak from the top of the radiator, most likely from the top hose hose connection. There are coolant splatter residue on the top hose, and down the fan shroud. I've already purchased a denso unit and coolant hoses from rockauto.
I topped up my radiator twice in the 3 weeks (2x 4-5 oz coolant), but it seems like I lose more than I put in. Also it doesn't seem like the system is pulling any coolant from the reservoir as it has been full since I noticed the leak. Do I have to turn on the engine and top up? Or is that just to burp air out of the system?
Prior to noticing the leak, the engine would not reach operating temp(crvforums says 180-190F/82C-87C). I'm not sure how accurate torque pro is, but the coolant temp never goes above 81C, even driving for 45 mins. I can see the needle on temp gauge decrease when i'm idling at a red light (torque pro will show 77C and dips to 70C), and raise when I'm driving. If I turn off the heater, the temp do not fluctuate, and will reach 81C quicker and hold. Would this mean my thermostat is faulty? Or its just to **** cold to warm up an aluminium block? Or the radiator was already compromised and had a small leak and got worse?
Yep, just replaced my radiator in my 2011 Avalon.Get the radiator full then start the engine cold with the radiator cap off and rev it. There should be no bubbling or other motion of the fluid in the radiator until the engine warms up.
Plastic radiators are prone to crack after about 15 years, so you're due.
The factory spring clamps are reusable. If your third party hoses are thicker wall than the original ones, the clamps may not fit very well, but the same thing would happen with new clamps the same size from the dealer.
In sub zero (F) weather you may need to block some of the airflow through the grille to keep heat in the engine. This is also a workaround for thermostat stuck partly open.
Turn your a/c on, it should activate both fans even if your temp sensor is bad ( at least it does with our crv’s) no matter what the coolant temp is. Also did you install the temp sensor into the new radiator? When new, It’s plugged, so you can fill it up without the sensor. My daughter had a shop replace her radiator once and they never installed the sensor so no cooling fan, it overheated of course and I fixed it for her. It sounds silly but it happens.
So this is how I’d troubleshoot it.
1st- check the temp switch to make sure it is installed and plugged in properly.
2nd- turn on your ac to max make sure the ac light is on.
if both fans come on (cooling fan/condenser fan)it’s most likely the switch.
if only one fan comes on you may have a bad Cooling fan, wiring ect...
Normal operation for Honda; they cycle often.I could hear the radiator fan come on when idle, waiting for my son at the bus stop.
Also normal; ambient temperature was cold enough to simulate A/C.It was blowing pretty cold air.
Yes, an air pocket in the area of the coolant temperature sensor may have an effect of fan operation; coolant must be present for the sensor to perform it's function.Can trapped air in the system prevent hitting operating temp?
Normal operation for Honda; they cycle often.
Also normal; ambient temperature was cold enough to simulate A/C.
Yes, an air pocket in the area of the coolant temperature sensor may have an effect of fan operation; coolant must be present for the sensor to perform it's function.
No problem, sounds like a plan. Does this model have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing? Most Hondas did. You can bleed it there for increased efficacy.
Yes, fan activiation is only with the compressor engagement on this model.
Correct, if ambient temperature is below a predeterminded cold temperature, the compressor is programmed not to engage to prevent it self desctructing.
Let me know if you have any more questions
On gen 2 crv’s if the ac is on, both fans will be activated. I believe yours is a gen 3 so it might be different. Also there might be a cold temp lock out. It’s really too cold to count on your temp switch activating the cooling fan, my daughter had hers fixed over the winter and it didn’t show any signs of problems until late summer when it over heated in traffic. The temp fix was to turn on her ac so both fans ran constantly.
Cold weather complicates everything!