2005 honda crv coolant leak/heating issues

[frisco]

Good morning bitogers!

We have been experiencing extremely cold weathers past 3 weeks in Manitoba, avg high - 26C avg low -35C. I've notice a leak from the top of the radiator, most likely from the top hose hose connection. There are coolant splatter residue on the top hose, and down the fan shroud. I've already purchased a denso unit and coolant hoses from rockauto.

I topped up my radiator twice in the 3 weeks (2x 4-5 oz coolant), but it seems like I lose more than I put in. Also it doesn't seem like the system is pulling any coolant from the reservoir as it has been full since I noticed the leak. Do I have to turn on the engine and top up? Or is that just to burp air out of the system?

Prior to noticing the leak, the engine would not reach operating temp(crvforums says 180-190F/82C-87C). I'm not sure how accurate torque pro is, but the coolant temp never goes above 81C, even driving for 45 mins. I can see the needle on temp gauge decrease when i'm idling at a red light (torque pro will show 77C and dips to 70C), and raise when I'm driving. If I turn off the heater, the temp do not fluctuate, and will reach 81C quicker and hold. Would this mean my thermostat is faulty? Or its just to **** cold to warm up an aluminium block? Or the radiator was already compromised and had a small leak and got worse?

 

[philipp10]

If it has a leak, it cannot pull a vacuum as it cools, and draw in coolant
from the reservoir I think.

 

[JC1]

Did you change the rad and hoses already or you are just refilling the system until you can change the parts?

 

[frisco]

If it has a leak, it cannot pull a vacuum as it cools, and draw in coolant
from the reservoir I think.

Thank you for the info!

Did you change the rad and hoses already or you are just refilling the system until you can change the parts?

No I am waiting on the parts, I've just been refilling. You figure it might be the hose that has a crack? Honestly it's been so cold I just assumed it was the rad.

 

[MParr]

If you install new hoses, get the OEM hose clamps (spring style). The worm clamps are horrible at securing the hoses without leaking or deforming the plastic radiator hose flanges.

 

[JC1]

If you install new hoses, get the OEM hose clamps (spring style). The worm clamps are horrible at securing the hoses without leaking or deforming the plastic radiator hose flanges.

I had an accord where the leak of the rad was at the top of the rad near the upper hose, bit was not yet hose. The hose is probably ok, it probably those plastic parts that are cracked.

It's hard to tell without seeing it first-hand. When you open the cap I'm guessing the level is lower. Do you have to drive the vehicle? I wouldn't until I could do the repair if that's possible.

 

[frisco]

If you install new hoses, get the OEM hose clamps (spring style). The worm clamps are horrible at securing the hoses without leaking or deforming the plastic radiator hose flanges.

I will be going to the dealership tomorrow to get some clamps.

 

[wag123]

If it has a leak, it cannot pull a vacuum as it cools, and draw in coolant
from the reservoir I think.

Furthermore, if the cooling system doesn't pressurize, the engine won't heat-up. Fix the leak and you will fix the problem.

 

[GSCJR]

Make sure the radiator cap is sealing correctly and if not, get an OE from the dealer and then go from there.

 

[frisco]

I had an accord where the leak of the rad was at the top of the rad near the upper hose, bit was not yet hose. The hose is probably ok, it probably those plastic parts that are cracked.

It's hard to tell without seeing it first-hand. When you open the cap I'm guessing the level is lower. Do you have to drive the vehicle? I wouldn't until I could do the repair if that's possible.

I just removed a plastic trim that covers the top radiator. The bottom plastic trim is soaked in coolant, so its spraying upwards. I couldnt see the crack tho.

Do you guys recommend changing the thermostat as well?

I'm confident is swapping the rad and hoses, but the crv tstat looks like something can go wrong with the plastic housing and bolts.

 

[frisco]

Make sure the radiator cap is sealing correctly and if not, get an OE from the dealer and then go from there.

Thanks I'll make sure to purchase that as well.

 

[GSCJR]

Focus on one thing at a time so that it's easier to monitor progress OR failures this way.

 

[frisco]

Focus on one thing at a time so that it's easier to monitor progress OR failures this way.

Thanks! So just change the Rad/hoses and oem rad cap for now?

 

[GSCJR]

Yes, I would start by making sure you have a good seal at the cap and the upper radiator hose clamp as previously mentioned. Once it's no longer leaking you can then assess your heater output.

 

[JC1]

On my civic i think I changed the thermostat after 20 years. Original was fine. I would just change rad and hoses for now. Not sure if your new rad comes with a cap. Changing cap is no big deal since you don't have to drain the rad to do that part swap.

 

[GSCJR]

Do not use the new cap from the replacement rad; OE only.

 

[GSCJR]

Original was fine

Yes, likely the same in this case.

 

[Kansas_Ron]

Do you have much engine movement when you put the car in gear? Just curious if worn transmission & engine mounts along with cold weather are contributing to your issue. Good luck.

 

[frisco]

Well I went outside to double check where the leak is coming from. I removed a plastic trim that covers the top of the rad. I started the vehicle, turned off the heater and it took 10mins for the get the coolant temp to 77C.

I noticed the tube from the reservoir to the rad cap inlet bubble was forming so that hose needs to be replaced as well. Also noticed steam coming from the right side of the rad where hose connects to.

I realized my reservoir tank is beyond full! I remember that being exactly on the Full line, now its near the cap. Seems whatever coolant I put in this morning went to the reserve tank.

 

[GSCJR]

Possible head gasket issue.