2005 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 - Oil Recommendation?

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Hi everyone, first post here at BITOG! grin Been lurking a few days and thought I'd create an account, learn some more info and try to contribute eventually with UOAs and such. Anyway, I had a question about which type of oil should work best for my driving conditions, and my vehicle. 1. What kind of vehicle you have: 2005 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 4x4 2. What your owner's manual says: All I can find is 5w20 and that Motorcraft oil is highly recommended. I'm looking for a API S/N oil anyway. 3. Where you live: Central Missouri 4. How you drive: Moderate, not light, not real hard, but I have the bad habit of unintentionally racing people at stop lights. Never go above 4k rpms 5. What your daily drive is like: 40 mi round trip, 60% highway 30% city 7% paved back roads 3% gravel back road (I live on a 1/2 mi stretch of gravel road) 6. Whether your car has any known problems: None that I know of I am the original owner of the Escape, which currently has 114,400 miles. Oil was changed with Motorcraft Syn Blend 5w20 and a Motorcraft 820s filter 1K miles ago, and Motorcraft oils and filters have been used all its life with no OCI going over 5K. The book recommends 5K intervals under ideal conditions, 3K for anything otherwise, but I figured since that was when oil was made a decade ago, things are different now with new oil standards? My main goal is to extend my OCI to 7.5K-10K, and I wanted to know if this was do-able if I used a different type of oil, even though the book says 5K. Motorcraft has worked, but I feel like experimenting to see if there is a better one out there for my needs. Have been considering Mobil 1 Extended Performance with some sort of synthetic oil filter. Then again, I've heard good stuff on the forum and been really suprised by the results some are getting with the Super Tech Wally-World synthetic oil, and have been considering that. I'm not really concerned about leaks since the car has been well taken care of with regular oil changes, and Motorcraft is a syn blend anyway. So what do you guys think, am I in a position where a different oil would work better for me, and can I do 7.5K OCI on a 2005 car living on a 1/2 mi stretch of dirt road?
 
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If I were you I would use Mobil 1 5w20 or AFE 0w20, or PP for 5K miles then get a UOA, if its good then go for 7500 miles, UOA if thats good then stick with that.
 
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Welcome! Not that it matters much but do you have the Duratec or Vulcan engine? You are right that oils have improved and 7.5k should be possible (even with semi syn) especially with your trip length / pattern that gets everything warmed up. But as you say, the dust could be a problem. But it might only matter for your air filter rather than your oil and as your air filter gets loaded it becomes more efficient. Your best bet is the UOA. Post back with that and you should get great input. MC semi syn is a great oil. It and full syn oils could very likely go to 10k. If you want to go over 10k and maybe up to 15k, then look at M1 EP in both 5w20 and 0w20 flavors. Mobil will guarantee it up to 15k and the Vulcan and Duratec are not hard on oil. So up to you how you ho about this. Get a UOA as late as you feel comfortable on MC with a view to achieving a 7.5k to 10k oci or if you really want to stretch the OCI, change to M1 EP and get a UOA as late as you feel comfortable with that with a view to doing a 15k plus oci. Nobody can tell you for sure which oil can got to 10k or 15k but out of the majors, only Mobil are guaranteeing 15k. Others only say follow manufacturer instructions which is 5k in your case. So a big difference between what the manufacturers feel comfortable with.
 

Blueshockey

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My engine is the Duratec flavor, I really like the little engine. It's been good to me. Thank you for the quick replies guys! That's what I'll do, get Mobil 1 EP or AFE and run a set amount and do a UOA and bring it back to you all. Just considering doing 7.5K to start instead of the 5K for the UOA because I feel conformable with that range once in order to test it.
 
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Just wanted to point out that that 15k is also 1 year max from a guarantee perspective. It may last longer but still it is double the 6 months others are comfortable with for your vehicle. I have a Duratec of a similar vintage and will be getting a UOA on full syn at about 7.5k for the first time. My only problem is that it will be on a different brand and grade to what's in my stash but it gives me insight into the engine and how it treats full syn oil. But in particular, I'd like to see what happens beyond a year. Problem is that I've put more mileage on this year so may be at 10k in 18 months rather than the 7.5k I usually would do in that time.
 
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Originally Posted By: Blueshockey
My engine is the Duratec flavor, I really like the little engine. It's been good to me. Thank you for the quick replies guys! That's what I'll do, get Mobil 1 EP or AFE and run a set amount and do a UOA and bring it back to you all. Just considering doing 7.5K to start instead of the 5K for the UOA because I feel conformable with that range once in order to test it.
Mobil just released EP 0w20. It looks awesome with high VI and really low pour point and guaranteed for 15k. It has the Ford approval, and looks like a higher quality oil in order to be an extended 0w. As you're going further than before, spend the $2 extra and you'll have the warranty just in case. You'll also be one of the first people to post a UOA on that oil which will be much appreciated. Who knows, maybe you can go the entire 15k. You may want to pick up a FRAM Ultra filter or a M1 EP filter to match the oci. Mobil is giving $15 rebate on oil and filter (certain locations only excluding Walmart though!)
 

Blueshockey

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Is there any particular advantage to using 0w20 over 5w20? I'm happy to pick it up and try, and it'd be really cool to be able to provide a quality UOA on a newly released oil! If I picked up a Fram Ultra or Mobil 1 filter would there be a need to change the filter before the OCI was up?
 
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0w will give you even better cold start performance than 5w. The pour point of the 0w EP is -54c vs -42c for 5w (EP and AFE). That kind of difference suggests a big difference in real world performance at all temps especially given the better VI at warmer temps. Some 0w don't look that much better than 5w but the M1 ones are. The EP putting 15k guarantee then puts that particular oil in a class of its own. If I didn't have a 3 oil change stash and / or did 15k in 1.5 years or so, I would go for the EP myself. The filters don't need to be changed for the duration they say which is 15k with the Ultra. The M1 filter may be the same, you'd need to check.
 

Blueshockey

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Originally Posted By: TrevorS
0w will give you even better cold start performance than 5w. The pour point of the 0w EP is -54c vs -42c for 5w (EP and AFE). That kind of difference suggests a big difference in real world performance at all temps especially given the better VI at warmer temps. Some 0w don't look that much better than 5w but the M1 ones are. The EP putting 15k guarantee then puts that particular oil in a class of its own. If I didn't have a 3 oil change stash and / or did 15k in 1.5 years or so, I would go for the EP myself. The filters don't need to be changed for the duration they say which is 15k with the Ultra. The M1 filter may be the same, you'd need to check.
Thanks for the information! I'll try to pick up 0w20 and if they don't have that in stock, then I'll pick up 5w20 EP. Either way, I don't think results are currently on the forum for long range OCI on dirt roads, in 2005 Escapes. smile
 
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I agree with TrevorS, Mobil 1 0W20 EP 5-qt jug at local Walmart for the same price as standard Mobil 1 is a good choice, couple with Fram Ultra the OCI can be extend to 13-15k for an easy driving of 40 miles everyday. Since you drive on gravel road everyday you should buy only good quality air filter, and if possible get Wix air filter monitor from Amazon for less than $20. Preventing dust/debris getting into the engine is better than rely on oil filter to catch it later.
 
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I used 0w30 in my 01 escape, flawless engine at 170k. The transmission is the weak point on the escape The CD4E is a bit weak. i changed fluid in mine every other oil change as it has no filter. I traded at around 170 as the transmission was going out.
 
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If you are considering a 0 weight oil, take a look at TGMO 0w20. Loads of UOA's, convos on here. It would be an ideal oil for your OCI. Check out its specs and compare them to others. The specs tell the tale.. grin Made by XOM for Toyota, same people that make M1.
 
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I service a 2006 Escape 3.0 for my SIL, and use the MC 5W-20. I reset the OLM and it always goes off at 5K miles. She ignores it for about 4K miles and then calls me to see if she can come up and get an oil change. This has been happening for 50K miles now. One look in the fill hole reveals absolutely spotless cams and chains. I feel confident in recommending long OCIs for the 3.0 Duratech. M1 EP in 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30 would be more than sufficient for a 10k mile OC. I always use and recommend the MC FL-820S filter. Best filter for the money.
 
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1) Don't do a UOA until after the second OC. The first OC will have some of the previous oil. 2) In your 3.0, M1 0-20 or 0-30 will perform very well even at 10K OCIs for most all types of driving. 3) I use MC filters with no problems, and MC will work fine for your engine as well.
 
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Just changed the oil and filter this past weekend on our '05 Mariner 3.0; used PP and a MC filter. I've used other filters on this and when I do wife notices a start up tick. Thought I would be doing the engine a favor by getting a better filter, but for this engine MC seems to fit the bill.
 

Blueshockey

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I was considering using a MC filter, but I'd be afraid it wouldn't go 10K safely. There's no advertisement at all that it can clean the oil to that distance, whereas Fram, Bosch, and M1 claim theirs can. I'm going to try the M1 or Fram I think and if I get the tick I'll return it and buy a MC; but thanks for the heads up. I'll definitely keep an ear out for it. Does anyone know if the 0w-20 AFE or EP M1 oils are group III or IV?
 
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Originally Posted By: Blueshockey
I was considering using a MC filter, but I'd be afraid it wouldn't go 10K safely.
I wouldn't worry much about it. There are nothing wrong with those other options, but the MC is a fine filter.
 
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