hey guys gotta 05 corolla with about 130k miles on her.. a month or so ago we took the car in bc the AC didnt want to work full time. It worked when it [censored] well fealt like it lol.. so they replaced the AC relay and it worked for a bit and now it doesnt work at all.. other than checking for coolant i am at a loss.. she is taking it today to the yota dealership but i would like some info first on somethings to check so they dont bend us over backwards again.. btw the compressor works. you hit the AC button and you can see the rpm's shake and feel/hear it click on.. but no cold air... need info please guys thanks!
2005 corolla AC doesnt work
- Thread starter mikeg5
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When they replaced the "relay" did they recharge the coolant?
If it's slowly getting weaker then stopping, that's a likely cause.
On Highlanders of that vintage, if the cabin filter isn't changed and restricts flow enough the system will sense it and the AC will turn off and the light on the dash will blink. Not sure if this applies to you.
Best of luck.
Bill in Utah
Staff member
If the compressor is working (some of them will not work IF they are low on freon but I don't think Toyotas will do that) then it most likely is a Freon issue.
Now what could cause the Freon to be low is a ton of things... Leaking fittings, condenser and other items. Hopefully its nothing in the dash.
I'd take it to a A/C place over the dealership. I would have thought that when they replaced the relay, they hooked up the gauges and checked that the freon was ok...
Keep us informed. My 05 has 135k now and the A/C is still working (had it on yesterday and it worked well)
(has fingers crossed)
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
If the compressor is working (some of them will not work IF they are low on freon but I don't think Toyotas will do that) then it most likely is a Freon issue.
Now what could cause the Freon to be low is a ton of things... Leaking fittings, condenser and other items. Hopefully its nothing in the dash.
I'd take it to a A/C place over the dealership. I would have thought that when they replaced the relay, they hooked up the gauges and checked that the freon was ok...
Keep us informed. My 05 has 135k now and the A/C is still working (had it on yesterday and it worked well)
(has fingers crossed)
Bill
Originally Posted By: bepperb
When they replaced the "relay" did they recharge the coolant?
If it's slowly getting weaker then stopping, that's a likely cause.
On Highlanders of that vintage, if the cabin filter isn't changed and restricts flow enough the system will sense it and the AC will turn off and the light on the dash will blink. Not sure if this applies to you.
Best of luck.
Last edited:
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
They sometimes go bad... Happened in my partners Ford Escort, and my Aunts Honda Civic.
It's easily checked... You disconnect its wires and using a multimeter on the switch you can see if the switch is functioning. Some are normally open circuits and some are normally closed... Not sure what you have but their technical manuals will tell them how to test these switches...
I would look at the low pressure switch first as in my experiences these are 90% of the time the problem that you described when a fully charged system is OK otherwise.
This or the electronic clutch on the compressor (very uncommon) on an Asian vehicle to go IMO.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
They sometimes go bad... Happened in my partners Ford Escort, and my Aunts Honda Civic.
It's easily checked... You disconnect its wires and using a multimeter on the switch you can see if the switch is functioning. Some are normally open circuits and some are normally closed... Not sure what you have but their technical manuals will tell them how to test these switches...
I would look at the low pressure switch first as in my experiences these are 90% of the time the problem that you described when a fully charged system is OK otherwise.
This or the electronic clutch on the compressor (very uncommon) on an Asian vehicle to go IMO.
It's not so much the cost of the clutch as it is draining/refilling the system and overhauling the compressor for the clutch etc... Gets very expensive, very quickly... Could be $1K plus!
I would look into the cycle switches first. I would almost guarantee that one of these is your problem.
A way to test the clutch is to run 12V directly to the compressor clutch and see if it gets colder in the cabin when holding it in the energized state. Make sure they have refrigerant gauges hooked up to the low/high pressure lines while doing this so they know if the system pressure gets too high so no accidents happen.
If running power to the compressor directly makes it cold inside the car within pressure specs as seen on the gauges, then it's the pressure switches, wiring, Thermostatic temperature control (if equipped), A/C relay or ECM (if controlled) that is the problem and not the compressor unit.
The Low pressure switch is so that the compressor doesn't run if it's low on refrigerant and cause the compressor to overheat.
The High pressure switch cuts out the compressor should the pressure in the system get too high that it could cause hydro locking in the compressor or cause something to burst/overheat and potentially cause fire or personal injury.
If one of these switches goes, it fails in such a way that the A/C just won't operate until it is repaired sparing you and your vehicle from a possible catastrophe.
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
Bill in Utah
Staff member
I put on a screen to protect mine.
There was a thread here on the project.
Bill
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
Bill, do you have pictures of this condenser guard?
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
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