hey guys gotta 05 corolla with about 130k miles on her.. a month or so ago we took the car in bc the AC didnt want to work full time. It worked when it [censored] well fealt like it lol.. so they replaced the AC relay and it worked for a bit and now it doesnt work at all.. other than checking for coolant i am at a loss.. she is taking it today to the yota dealership but i would like some info first on somethings to check so they dont bend us over backwards again.. btw the compressor works. you hit the AC button and you can see the rpm's shake and feel/hear it click on.. but no cold air... need info please guys thanks!
2005 corolla AC doesnt work
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When they replaced the "relay" did they recharge the coolant?
If it's slowly getting weaker then stopping, that's a likely cause.
On Highlanders of that vintage, if the cabin filter isn't changed and restricts flow enough the system will sense it and the AC will turn off and the light on the dash will blink. Not sure if this applies to you.
Best of luck.
If it's slowly getting weaker then stopping, that's a likely cause.
On Highlanders of that vintage, if the cabin filter isn't changed and restricts flow enough the system will sense it and the AC will turn off and the light on the dash will blink. Not sure if this applies to you.
Best of luck.
If the compressor is working (some of them will not work IF they are low on freon but I don't think Toyotas will do that) then it most likely is a Freon issue.
Now what could cause the Freon to be low is a ton of things... Leaking fittings, condenser and other items. Hopefully its nothing in the dash.
I'd take it to a A/C place over the dealership. I would have thought that when they replaced the relay, they hooked up the gauges and checked that the freon was ok...
Keep us informed. My 05 has 135k now and the A/C is still working (had it on yesterday and it worked well)
(has fingers crossed)
Bill
Now what could cause the Freon to be low is a ton of things... Leaking fittings, condenser and other items. Hopefully its nothing in the dash.
I'd take it to a A/C place over the dealership. I would have thought that when they replaced the relay, they hooked up the gauges and checked that the freon was ok...
Keep us informed. My 05 has 135k now and the A/C is still working (had it on yesterday and it worked well)
(has fingers crossed)
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
If the compressor is working (some of them will not work IF they are low on freon but I don't think Toyotas will do that) then it most likely is a Freon issue.
Now what could cause the Freon to be low is a ton of things... Leaking fittings, condenser and other items. Hopefully its nothing in the dash.
I'd take it to a A/C place over the dealership. I would have thought that when they replaced the relay, they hooked up the gauges and checked that the freon was ok...
Keep us informed. My 05 has 135k now and the A/C is still working (had it on yesterday and it worked well)
(has fingers crossed)
Bill
she said (lady at the yota place) that they will not work if its even a 1/2 lb short on freon. i call [censored] personnaly. the relay was over $100.00.. thats steep... however i know AC parts can get pricey... i dont know where to start asking. i know very little about an AC and how it works.
If the compressor is working (some of them will not work IF they are low on freon but I don't think Toyotas will do that) then it most likely is a Freon issue.
Now what could cause the Freon to be low is a ton of things... Leaking fittings, condenser and other items. Hopefully its nothing in the dash.
I'd take it to a A/C place over the dealership. I would have thought that when they replaced the relay, they hooked up the gauges and checked that the freon was ok...
Keep us informed. My 05 has 135k now and the A/C is still working (had it on yesterday and it worked well)
(has fingers crossed)
Bill
she said (lady at the yota place) that they will not work if its even a 1/2 lb short on freon. i call [censored] personnaly. the relay was over $100.00.. thats steep... however i know AC parts can get pricey... i dont know where to start asking. i know very little about an AC and how it works.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
When they replaced the "relay" did they recharge the coolant?
If it's slowly getting weaker then stopping, that's a likely cause.
On Highlanders of that vintage, if the cabin filter isn't changed and restricts flow enough the system will sense it and the AC will turn off and the light on the dash will blink. Not sure if this applies to you.
Best of luck.
i will check the filter. the air the fan blows out is fast like it should be just not cold.. no lights blink for that issue in the corollas that i know of.. esp the 2005's... this may end up being expensive.. ill bet they didnt check the freon..
they said the compressor wasnt running when they got it.. the AC worked on my way over there and they replaced the relay anyway.. ill bet they didnt check the freon.. they assumed the compressor didnt work and bam new relay at over a hundred bucks
When they replaced the "relay" did they recharge the coolant?
If it's slowly getting weaker then stopping, that's a likely cause.
On Highlanders of that vintage, if the cabin filter isn't changed and restricts flow enough the system will sense it and the AC will turn off and the light on the dash will blink. Not sure if this applies to you.
Best of luck.
i will check the filter. the air the fan blows out is fast like it should be just not cold.. no lights blink for that issue in the corollas that i know of.. esp the 2005's... this may end up being expensive.. ill bet they didnt check the freon..
they said the compressor wasnt running when they got it.. the AC worked on my way over there and they replaced the relay anyway.. ill bet they didnt check the freon.. they assumed the compressor didnt work and bam new relay at over a hundred bucks
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Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
The compressor turns on though.
Is the low side line cold to the touch? If so, might be a blend door type issue.
Check the low and/or the high pressure switchs. It might think it has no refrigerant in the system or that the pressure is dangerously high. This is more likely the problem.
If the low/high pressure switchs are bad, the compressor would still kick in when you first turn the system on and then kick out once it "thinks" there is no/dangerously high pressure.
Bet you one of these is your problem. (Most likely the low pressure switch)
The low pressure switch can be changed without having to drain/refill the system I believe as most Asian cars have a valve in between this switch and the refrigerant in case it needs to be changed.
The compressor turns on though.
Is the low side line cold to the touch? If so, might be a blend door type issue.
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
What I've noticed from my wifey's 04 camry is that the car is pretty much built using domestic parts and what-not (thus repair parts can be had fairly cheep). As much as many folks would like to support their local/domestic brands and be loyal to their economy, one thing I found out (since we bought our camry (used, we are 2nd owner)) is that domestically-sourced car parts, esp. plastic parts, sensors, and switches, etc. are sub-par if you to compare to the genuine Nippon Denso's stuff, and I seem to see more failures on these small parts than others (I also maintains many domestically-built corollas, civics and accords of my friends and neighbours).
Doesn't matter now, you just need to get it fixed and you'll be fine afterwards.
Q.
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
What I've noticed from my wifey's 04 camry is that the car is pretty much built using domestic parts and what-not (thus repair parts can be had fairly cheep). As much as many folks would like to support their local/domestic brands and be loyal to their economy, one thing I found out (since we bought our camry (used, we are 2nd owner)) is that domestically-sourced car parts, esp. plastic parts, sensors, and switches, etc. are sub-par if you to compare to the genuine Nippon Denso's stuff, and I seem to see more failures on these small parts than others (I also maintains many domestically-built corollas, civics and accords of my friends and neighbours).
Doesn't matter now, you just need to get it fixed and you'll be fine afterwards.
Q.
They sometimes go bad... Happened in my partners Ford Escort, and my Aunts Honda Civic.
It's easily checked... You disconnect its wires and using a multimeter on the switch you can see if the switch is functioning. Some are normally open circuits and some are normally closed... Not sure what you have but their technical manuals will tell them how to test these switches...
I would look at the low pressure switch first as in my experiences these are 90% of the time the problem that you described when a fully charged system is OK otherwise.
This or the electronic clutch on the compressor (very uncommon) on an Asian vehicle to go IMO.
It's easily checked... You disconnect its wires and using a multimeter on the switch you can see if the switch is functioning. Some are normally open circuits and some are normally closed... Not sure what you have but their technical manuals will tell them how to test these switches...
I would look at the low pressure switch first as in my experiences these are 90% of the time the problem that you described when a fully charged system is OK otherwise.
This or the electronic clutch on the compressor (very uncommon) on an Asian vehicle to go IMO.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
They sometimes go bad... Happened in my partners Ford Escort, and my Aunts Honda Civic.
It's easily checked... You disconnect its wires and using a multimeter on the switch you can see if the switch is functioning. Some are normally open circuits and some are normally closed... Not sure what you have but their technical manuals will tell them how to test these switches...
I would look at the low pressure switch first as in my experiences these are 90% of the time the problem that you described when a fully charged system is OK otherwise.
This or the electronic clutch on the compressor (very uncommon) on an Asian vehicle to go IMO.
she mentioned the clutch and she also mentioned that they never have issues with AC's period esp in the corollas.. how much would a clutch run? just curious but i am gonna make sure if the freon is full for them to check the high low switches
They sometimes go bad... Happened in my partners Ford Escort, and my Aunts Honda Civic.
It's easily checked... You disconnect its wires and using a multimeter on the switch you can see if the switch is functioning. Some are normally open circuits and some are normally closed... Not sure what you have but their technical manuals will tell them how to test these switches...
I would look at the low pressure switch first as in my experiences these are 90% of the time the problem that you described when a fully charged system is OK otherwise.
This or the electronic clutch on the compressor (very uncommon) on an Asian vehicle to go IMO.
she mentioned the clutch and she also mentioned that they never have issues with AC's period esp in the corollas.. how much would a clutch run? just curious but i am gonna make sure if the freon is full for them to check the high low switches
It's not so much the cost of the clutch as it is draining/refilling the system and overhauling the compressor for the clutch etc... Gets very expensive, very quickly... Could be $1K plus!
I would look into the cycle switches first. I would almost guarantee that one of these is your problem.
A way to test the clutch is to run 12V directly to the compressor clutch and see if it gets colder in the cabin when holding it in the energized state. Make sure they have refrigerant gauges hooked up to the low/high pressure lines while doing this so they know if the system pressure gets too high so no accidents happen.
If running power to the compressor directly makes it cold inside the car within pressure specs as seen on the gauges, then it's the pressure switches, wiring, Thermostatic temperature control (if equipped), A/C relay or ECM (if controlled) that is the problem and not the compressor unit.
The Low pressure switch is so that the compressor doesn't run if it's low on refrigerant and cause the compressor to overheat.
The High pressure switch cuts out the compressor should the pressure in the system get too high that it could cause hydro locking in the compressor or cause something to burst/overheat and potentially cause fire or personal injury.
If one of these switches goes, it fails in such a way that the A/C just won't operate until it is repaired sparing you and your vehicle from a possible catastrophe.
I would look into the cycle switches first. I would almost guarantee that one of these is your problem.
A way to test the clutch is to run 12V directly to the compressor clutch and see if it gets colder in the cabin when holding it in the energized state. Make sure they have refrigerant gauges hooked up to the low/high pressure lines while doing this so they know if the system pressure gets too high so no accidents happen.
If running power to the compressor directly makes it cold inside the car within pressure specs as seen on the gauges, then it's the pressure switches, wiring, Thermostatic temperature control (if equipped), A/C relay or ECM (if controlled) that is the problem and not the compressor unit.
The Low pressure switch is so that the compressor doesn't run if it's low on refrigerant and cause the compressor to overheat.
The High pressure switch cuts out the compressor should the pressure in the system get too high that it could cause hydro locking in the compressor or cause something to burst/overheat and potentially cause fire or personal injury.
If one of these switches goes, it fails in such a way that the A/C just won't operate until it is repaired sparing you and your vehicle from a possible catastrophe.
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
If it worked for a while after the first fix, they probably did check and top off the refrigerant charge. My guess is that you have a leak and have lost enough (again) so that the low pressure switch kicks the compressor off to prevent it from drawing air and moisture into the low side (the low side pressure can drop down to atmospheric pressure or lower when the system is low on refrigerant).
You said you can "feel the car shake" when you push the button- did you pop the hood and see if the compressor is actually turning, or if it turns for a couple of seconds and then stops? If it starts and then kicks right back off, its almost certain that its low on refrigerant and the low-pressure safety switch is kicking it off.
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
If it worked for a while after the first fix, they probably did check and top off the refrigerant charge. My guess is that you have a leak and have lost enough (again) so that the low pressure switch kicks the compressor off to prevent it from drawing air and moisture into the low side (the low side pressure can drop down to atmospheric pressure or lower when the system is low on refrigerant).
You said you can "feel the car shake" when you push the button- did you pop the hood and see if the compressor is actually turning, or if it turns for a couple of seconds and then stops? If it starts and then kicks right back off, its almost certain that its low on refrigerant and the low-pressure safety switch is kicking it off.
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
I put on a screen to protect mine.
There was a thread here on the project.
Bill
There was a thread here on the project.
Bill
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
If it worked for a while after the first fix, they probably did check and top off the refrigerant charge. My guess is that you have a leak and have lost enough (again) so that the low pressure switch kicks the compressor off to prevent it from drawing air and moisture into the low side (the low side pressure can drop down to atmospheric pressure or lower when the system is low on refrigerant).
You said you can "feel the car shake" when you push the button- did you pop the hood and see if the compressor is actually turning, or if it turns for a couple of seconds and then stops? If it starts and then kicks right back off, its almost certain that its low on refrigerant and the low-pressure safety switch is kicking it off.
i swear i dont think they did.. she just said it wasnt working (though i had plenty of cold air blowing going to the shop) and they just replaced the relay..
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
thanks man i will print this and ill ask the service tech to check it.. i am going to meet her at the shop after work. how does the switches go bad? or anything like that? chances are they didnt bother checking the freon the last time we were there
If it worked for a while after the first fix, they probably did check and top off the refrigerant charge. My guess is that you have a leak and have lost enough (again) so that the low pressure switch kicks the compressor off to prevent it from drawing air and moisture into the low side (the low side pressure can drop down to atmospheric pressure or lower when the system is low on refrigerant).
You said you can "feel the car shake" when you push the button- did you pop the hood and see if the compressor is actually turning, or if it turns for a couple of seconds and then stops? If it starts and then kicks right back off, its almost certain that its low on refrigerant and the low-pressure safety switch is kicking it off.
i swear i dont think they did.. she just said it wasnt working (though i had plenty of cold air blowing going to the shop) and they just replaced the relay..
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
the relay was replaced less than a month ago.
ill ask about the TSB for the rock guard. you sure its a 2005 model for the tsb?
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
the relay was replaced less than a month ago.
ill ask about the TSB for the rock guard. you sure its a 2005 model for the tsb?
Bill, do you have pictures of this condenser guard?
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
the relay was replaced less than a month ago.
ill ask about the TSB for the rock guard. you sure its a 2005 model for the tsb?
http://forums.motortrend.com/70/6674128/...blem/index.html
I wouldn't be surprised if you have a busted condenser!
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
the relay was replaced less than a month ago.
ill ask about the TSB for the rock guard. you sure its a 2005 model for the tsb?
http://forums.motortrend.com/70/6674128/...blem/index.html
I wouldn't be surprised if you have a busted condenser!
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
the relay was replaced less than a month ago.
ill ask about the TSB for the rock guard. you sure its a 2005 model for the tsb?
http://forums.motortrend.com/70/6674128/...blem/index.html
I wouldn't be surprised if you have a busted condenser!
thanks for the link i printed that out as well! i suppose the condenser would be dented up correct? ill have them look at that as well. easy fix but i know ill be irate with toyota if they do not reimburse us for the troubles.. either way ill have them put that guard on.
my problem is that how could the AC work great then not work then go back to working great and then just quit?? thats what confuses me the most
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Just to let everyone know, the AC relay is the same part number as the horn and fog relay. It is fairly common for the AC relay to [censored] out for some reason when there is an AC issue.
Also, the Al on the condensors on the corollas are really thin, is is so thin there is a TSB out for a rock guard.
the relay was replaced less than a month ago.
ill ask about the TSB for the rock guard. you sure its a 2005 model for the tsb?
http://forums.motortrend.com/70/6674128/...blem/index.html
I wouldn't be surprised if you have a busted condenser!
thanks for the link i printed that out as well! i suppose the condenser would be dented up correct? ill have them look at that as well. easy fix but i know ill be irate with toyota if they do not reimburse us for the troubles.. either way ill have them put that guard on.
my problem is that how could the AC work great then not work then go back to working great and then just quit?? thats what confuses me the most
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