Cleaning the MAF with the proper cleaner is a fantastic way to improve driveability.
It can make a HUGE difference in GM vehicles.
It can make a HUGE difference in GM vehicles.
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2004 Tacoma V6 3.4L - Maintenance and MPG Help.
- Thread starter mc4nam
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Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Don't touch the MAF if it runs fine. Spraying it will probably break it.
Quote:
Cleaning the MAF with the proper cleaner is a fantastic way to improve driveability.
It can make a HUGE difference in GM vehicles.
Well. Decisions Decisions.
Don't touch the MAF if it runs fine. Spraying it will probably break it.
Quote:
Cleaning the MAF with the proper cleaner is a fantastic way to improve driveability.
It can make a HUGE difference in GM vehicles.
Well. Decisions Decisions.
+2 for cleaning the MAF.
It will help mpg, and it will make sure the ECU is getting a proper reading of how much air is actually entering through the intake.
It will help mpg, and it will make sure the ECU is getting a proper reading of how much air is actually entering through the intake.
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Gotta speak up as I was a prior owner of the same truck as yours. Best truck I ever had. I miss it, but gas got too expensive for both vehicles I own last time it was this high in CA.
Engine oil does not matter except for the correct weight (5w30 or 40 - maybe in TX)
I'd run syn in the diff (I used Amsoil SVG 75w110) I had a lift and larger tires on mine.
Mobil 1 or Amsoil in the transmission, I used Toyota T-IV when I did drain and fills.
Timing Belt and water pump every 90k miles or 7 years as stated in the manual. I did drain/fills with Toyota red coolant and distilled water every 30k miles. (only did it once, cause I sold it before 60k)
Don't forget to lube the driveline. There are 6-8 zerk fittings for adding grease. I used Mobil 1 grease on mine about every 10-15k.
+3 for MAF cleaning. It does not take much. Just be careful when handling it.
Spark plugs should be changed every 30k IMO.
Toyota extended the Rust warranty on these trucks. Toyota sent me a notice a couple years ago that I put with all the paperwork. You could google that and I bet come up with some results.
With just the basic maintenance, these trucks will last a long, long time. As for mpg, I averaged about 15-16mpg with city driving because of the lift and larger and more aggressive tires.
Engine oil does not matter except for the correct weight (5w30 or 40 - maybe in TX)
I'd run syn in the diff (I used Amsoil SVG 75w110) I had a lift and larger tires on mine.
Mobil 1 or Amsoil in the transmission, I used Toyota T-IV when I did drain and fills.
Timing Belt and water pump every 90k miles or 7 years as stated in the manual. I did drain/fills with Toyota red coolant and distilled water every 30k miles. (only did it once, cause I sold it before 60k)
Don't forget to lube the driveline. There are 6-8 zerk fittings for adding grease. I used Mobil 1 grease on mine about every 10-15k.
+3 for MAF cleaning. It does not take much. Just be careful when handling it.
Spark plugs should be changed every 30k IMO.
Toyota extended the Rust warranty on these trucks. Toyota sent me a notice a couple years ago that I put with all the paperwork. You could google that and I bet come up with some results.
With just the basic maintenance, these trucks will last a long, long time. As for mpg, I averaged about 15-16mpg with city driving because of the lift and larger and more aggressive tires.
my best mpg gains, lube-wise, have been amsoil or castrol ATF+4 (thinnest at the time), mobil 1 in the axles, and a synthetic in the T-case (mobil 1 universal ATF is fairly thick but in a chain-driven T-case I wanted that-- it's a good fluid). I prefer mobil 1 or amsoil in the diffs. I'm NOT a mobil 1 engine oil fan at all, I've found other syns that seem to hold up longer.
Air up the tires. don't know if your 4 runner sags in the back or not, but a dropped nose tends to get slightly better hwy miles. if you have torsion springs up front, they may be adjustable to lower the front if the rear is sagging.
Tires also impact MPG. Hwy all-seasons are more efficient in general than all-terrains or heavier truck tires. Not a big michelin owner, but their LTX line is always reviewed well in every way except serious off road use.
I gotta give props to the above poster who mentioned that better flowing air filters do NOT give better MPG (in a gasser!). very few folks grasp this, but he's correct. Better flowing exhaust can, however provide small mpg gains, however too much and you can lose low-end torque and efficiency.
As to MAF and MPG.... it really depends on the vehicle. The ecu will ultimately listen to the O2 sensors as well to correct burn mix. the maf gives an immediate read and then the O2s give feedback to fine-tune. there may also be a map sensor in the loop as well, adding its opinion. To that end, IF the O2 sensor is tired, a replacement can help... but if it's OK, it's just money spent. MAP sensors give the best transient response (quickest), MAF fine tune that response over time, and the O2 gives feedback with final correction. Different cars use different or all of these systems. I wouldn't clean the MAF unless it's visibly dirty.
Air up the tires. don't know if your 4 runner sags in the back or not, but a dropped nose tends to get slightly better hwy miles. if you have torsion springs up front, they may be adjustable to lower the front if the rear is sagging.
Tires also impact MPG. Hwy all-seasons are more efficient in general than all-terrains or heavier truck tires. Not a big michelin owner, but their LTX line is always reviewed well in every way except serious off road use.
I gotta give props to the above poster who mentioned that better flowing air filters do NOT give better MPG (in a gasser!). very few folks grasp this, but he's correct. Better flowing exhaust can, however provide small mpg gains, however too much and you can lose low-end torque and efficiency.
As to MAF and MPG.... it really depends on the vehicle. The ecu will ultimately listen to the O2 sensors as well to correct burn mix. the maf gives an immediate read and then the O2s give feedback to fine-tune. there may also be a map sensor in the loop as well, adding its opinion. To that end, IF the O2 sensor is tired, a replacement can help... but if it's OK, it's just money spent. MAP sensors give the best transient response (quickest), MAF fine tune that response over time, and the O2 gives feedback with final correction. Different cars use different or all of these systems. I wouldn't clean the MAF unless it's visibly dirty.
Originally Posted By: mc4nam
My MPG is 15-17 in city right now and 19-21 on Hwy. I would love to get that up a couple of MPG's if possible.
MC
I had the same truck and got the same mileage, from the day it came off the lot to when I sold it at 60K. I could sometimes hit 22 on the highway, and that was WITH synthetic lubes and a bed lid. If you achieve any repeatable increase I will be very surprised.
My MPG is 15-17 in city right now and 19-21 on Hwy. I would love to get that up a couple of MPG's if possible.
MC
I had the same truck and got the same mileage, from the day it came off the lot to when I sold it at 60K. I could sometimes hit 22 on the highway, and that was WITH synthetic lubes and a bed lid. If you achieve any repeatable increase I will be very surprised.
Thanks again everyone. Very valuable information. At this point it doesn't seem like I will get any better MPG worth spending any money on. I am going to go the synthetic route everywhere I can, Clean MAF, and do some type of fuel treatment with PEA every now and then. The main reason for fuel treatment is I have been guilty of using cheap gas. I will report back on any MPG gains or issues.
FYI, I do have 265/70/17 tires on the truck instead of the factory size 265/70/16. I am sure the extra weight is hurting MPG but I am using a pretty efficient hwy tire instead of the cool looking AT tires of the past.
FYI, I do have 265/70/17 tires on the truck instead of the factory size 265/70/16. I am sure the extra weight is hurting MPG but I am using a pretty efficient hwy tire instead of the cool looking AT tires of the past.
I'd say do the syn in the diff and Trans and drive on!
The fuel system cleaners I'd use are Techron, Redline SI-1, or Gumout Regane.
Good Luck!
The fuel system cleaners I'd use are Techron, Redline SI-1, or Gumout Regane.
Good Luck!
Since this engine uses a waste spark system, use only dual electrode spark plugs, either NGK or Denso.
If the O2 sensors are original,you may want to consider changing them out.Denso here.Change the PCV out as well.OEM here also.
+3 on cleaning the MAF. Make sure to clean the two MAF wires located down at the end of the tube, not just the air temp sensor.
If the O2 sensors are original,you may want to consider changing them out.Denso here.Change the PCV out as well.OEM here also.
+3 on cleaning the MAF. Make sure to clean the two MAF wires located down at the end of the tube, not just the air temp sensor.
Although it's not a Tacoma, I have the same engine in my '95 T100. I bought it used with 219k on it. That was 11 years ago. I've always used Mobil 1 5w30 and the Toyota filter with a 10k drain interval. This motor is bulletproof. I also do a DIY trans. flush every 50k.
Just yesterday, it clicked over 430,000 miles. Still going strong.
Good Luck!
Charlie
Just yesterday, it clicked over 430,000 miles. Still going strong.
Good Luck!
Charlie
I have the previous generation truck with the 3.slow...I mean 0. I switched to syn at ~120k miles. I change my own oil.
Here is what I've done:
M1 10w30 HM. I have a Fumoto valve installed.
Redline MT90 in the 5 speed manual. I couldn't find in your posts if yours is auto. This fluid has been recommended A LOT by other manual owners as it really butters things up in there.
Redline 75w-90 in transfer case, front & rear differentials.
Redline ATF+4 in the power steering (I don't know if ATF is still used in Tacos). I had to rebuild it twice before I went to syn and have no issues now. I had to adjust the way I turned the wheel as it was easier. I bought 2 quarts and a small syphon pump. Syphoned out of the pump what I could and refilled. I did this over the course of of a few weeks until I used up the quarts. Now I just do maintenence every now and then.
Toyota air and oil filters (I got rid of my K&N. A royal PITA!).
NKG or Denso plugs.
Michelin LTX M/S. LOVE these tires!! Smooth and quiet.
Unless Bilstein shocks are what came with the truck, don't use stock ones. I have Bilsteins on right now and am pretty happy with them. I wouldn't have minded something a little softer, though.
It sounds as though your truck is running pretty much at peak performance. Be very carefull with the MAF sensor and I've read by others and told by my indy Toyota mechanic to always use throttle body cleaner in the throttle body. I wouldn't worry about using that much cleaner in the fuel. Any small gains will be offset by the cost of the cleaners. Twice a year (?) should be good enough with decent fuel.
I try to stay with Toyota parts as much as possible. At this point in MY truck's life, I'm straying a bit. Just replaced the brake booster which I got for a fraction of the cost of OEM. Replaced the center support bearing which was made by Timken...saved about $150. Gaskets, plug wires, filters...all Toyota.
I'll send you a PM with some other info you might like.
Here is what I've done:
M1 10w30 HM. I have a Fumoto valve installed.
Redline MT90 in the 5 speed manual. I couldn't find in your posts if yours is auto. This fluid has been recommended A LOT by other manual owners as it really butters things up in there.
Redline 75w-90 in transfer case, front & rear differentials.
Redline ATF+4 in the power steering (I don't know if ATF is still used in Tacos). I had to rebuild it twice before I went to syn and have no issues now. I had to adjust the way I turned the wheel as it was easier. I bought 2 quarts and a small syphon pump. Syphoned out of the pump what I could and refilled. I did this over the course of of a few weeks until I used up the quarts. Now I just do maintenence every now and then.
Toyota air and oil filters (I got rid of my K&N. A royal PITA!).
NKG or Denso plugs.
Michelin LTX M/S. LOVE these tires!! Smooth and quiet.
Unless Bilstein shocks are what came with the truck, don't use stock ones. I have Bilsteins on right now and am pretty happy with them. I wouldn't have minded something a little softer, though.
It sounds as though your truck is running pretty much at peak performance. Be very carefull with the MAF sensor and I've read by others and told by my indy Toyota mechanic to always use throttle body cleaner in the throttle body. I wouldn't worry about using that much cleaner in the fuel. Any small gains will be offset by the cost of the cleaners. Twice a year (?) should be good enough with decent fuel.
I try to stay with Toyota parts as much as possible. At this point in MY truck's life, I'm straying a bit. Just replaced the brake booster which I got for a fraction of the cost of OEM. Replaced the center support bearing which was made by Timken...saved about $150. Gaskets, plug wires, filters...all Toyota.
I'll send you a PM with some other info you might like.
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135K on mine. I average 18-19 mpg. Its got 2.25" lift and 26575R16's. Love it.
Any update? … I am also extremely curious as I just bought an 04 DoubleCab with only 63,000 miles. I’m coming from an 05 Colorado CC (3.5L) that exceeded the 19/23 sticker. So naturally I’m thinking the Yota can do the same of 17/20. My plans so far are what has been suggested, full synthetic on all fluids and shorter street friendly tires. my next plan is a one-piece driveshaft and possibly changing rear-end gears (currently 4:10)to accommodate/correct for the shorter tires. Also maybe a 2/3 drop/leveling kit to help with aerodynamics. would anyone know the limiting factor for getting better mpg’s? aside from the computer (which I think is none-programmable), is stance (height), transmission gears, rear-end gears, fuel delivery system (I think TB?)... This is kinda a pet project so dumping $$ is not an issue (with-in reason). Right now I’m getting 16.8-17 city…I think the limiting factor is the higher rpms during everyday driving. 2k @ 60mph and 2,300 at 75. I understand this is normal though, even in my co-worker’s new 2012 Tacoma 4.0L
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