2004 Accord V-6 157K miles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: buster
The Critic is packing his bags now and on his way to NC.


A new blip on his tightwad radar. Now if they could just ship cheap labor at reasonable S&H rates.
grin2.gif
 
Going back to your fuel dilution issue. Please don't take offense if I ask about how the samples were taken. Was the car fresh off a good run? Or just warmed up a few minutes, then sampled? The reason I ask is that, in every other respect, you have some pretty good results there. Not knowing anything else, that kinda red-flags the sampling process to me.

I have a 2000 Accord that's had only two repairs in it's life, an EGR under warranty and a rear wheel bearing. Super car! I won't count one battery. At 70K, it's still running the original brakes (50%+ yet)and tires (thin at about 5/32, we're shopping!).

My UOAs have never shown a trace of fuel and I don't remember hearing that Hondas were prone to fuel dilution issues. Is it just the later engines or all?

FZ1: I feel your pain. Spent 20 years working on hi-end cars before changing careers, so I dread having anyone else touch it. So, I intend doing the belt myself. Have reviewed the manuals and it doesn't look any harder than some of the Porsches and Audis I used to work on. Ditto for the valve adjustment(which looks easy technically, just a lot of junk to remove first). I'm a little rusty but I'm far more motivated to take my time and do a good job. In fact it will be fun to do a technical job like that but not be "on the clock" and pressured by management to do it quick.
 
Jim,changing the TB is beyond my limited expertise,so I'm at the dealer's mercy. You might consider changing your plugs a little early. I changed my oem platinums at 90k and noticed improved run quality. 2 of my back bank plugs were harder to turn than the other 4 so I'm going to change plugs at 75k in the future.
 
FZ1: I changed mine at 50K... more out of boredom than real need.They looked perfect. Ran the borescope into the cylinders too, for grins. Almost no carbon. That's what zero oil consumption and Top Tier fuel will do!
 
DCRamsey, Do you always blend oils for the accord? My sister has the same car with 153K (and a new honda auto tranny at 107K) and was wondering if blending oil has worked well for this engine. It seems like I have the same oils (and more) Mobil 1, Motorcraft, Amsoil (although it's a racing oil)
 
Originally Posted By: umbg35
DCRamsey, Do you always blend oils for the accord? My sister has the same car with 153K (and a new honda auto tranny at 107K) and was wondering if blending oil has worked well for this engine. It seems like I have the same oils (and more) Mobil 1, Motorcraft, Amsoil (although it's a racing oil)


No, I've only blended the oil once, that was because I had a number of quarts left over from different runs. I was afraid it would be inferior to any one brand. It turned out to be one of the best UOA's of the lot. I know the numbers I posted were hard to read. It looked great when I typed it. It all changed when I posted it.In any case, I'd stick with the same weight, but I wouldn't worry about mixing different brands. Many here would disagree, my UOA's say it won't hurt a thing.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll probably continue with the blend of YB and PP (50/50) for 7.5K OCIs. Maybe I'll dump a quart of the Amsoil just for h*ll of it.
 
You may or may not be interested, but I think this was 2 quarts MotorCraft semi syn, 1 quart Mobil 1, one quart Amsoil, all 5 W 20. I believe it was the Amsoil that had the biggest impact.
Iron 4
copper 4
tin 0
lead 0
chrom 0
nickel 0
alum 2
titan 0
silver 0
calcu 2211
magne 16
zinc 997
phos 713
barl 0
molyb 56
silico 15
sodiu 8
boron 171
potas 0
vanad 0
v40c 42.4
v100c 7.9
tan .18
flash 270
oxid 23
nit 9
kf 898
tbn 5.7
fuel 1.73
vndx 163
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom