2003 CRV rear brake pads

From my Haynes manual 42027 for more recent CR-V 2012 - 2016 and Civics 2012 - 2015, page 1 - 2 the minimum pad thickness is 1/8 inch (3 mm), and the minimum shoe thickness ( parking brake ) is 1/16 inch (1.5 mm). Apparently parking brake shoes are not very thick when new and do not need to be very thick when used because in general they only hold, and are seldom used to slow a moving vehicle.
 
I see now that they are the $18.57 as Trav points. But Rock wants $9.99 to ship. So it's $30. I guess that isn't bad, was hoping for $20 or so, just being a cheapskate--and before you complain, cheap brakes on this will still be better than anything I drove, and not be all that bad. Let's keep in mind, it's an old CRV that is more than halfway done.

Right now I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to get some RT43's onto this--the Tire Paws are only half worn, but they really suck in snow. It's not going to get driven much in snow but I'd like to have decent tires on it all the same.

Consider 3-peak all-season tires, if any are available in your size :)
 
Consider 3-peak all-season tires, if any are available in your size :)
I like RT43's, they work pretty good on my other cars. Not going to spend a lot of money on tires either. When it snows they don't drive to school. If/when they get jobs, and have the confidence to drive in snow, then I'll decide if I want to spring the coin for snow tires. Since that is a couple years out it's kinda hard to justify buying tires at this time.
 
Wow. What you do is your business.... If you interpreted anything further out of my comment, not sure why.
This is BITOG, second guessing one another is normal, as is defending one's choices.

I chose the wrong word, not directed at you but at the general audience, sorry.
 
Thanks all. I'll see what Rock has and if I want to pay for Raybestos--they seem like good quality, for what I've used in the past, just not concerned here at this time. I mean, I have other vehicles to drive and the driver for this is a year out from getting a license. I dislike driving this vehicle and would take any other vehicle over this so it's not going to see snow duty for a while to come (needs tires and the AWD is a joke, plus kids don't go to school if the roads are bad, plus pandemic for who knows how long).
Awd is a joke? Sure if you are rock crawling or in slick clay. We had a 97 however and in snow it was surprisingly effective. It only tolerated a little wheel spin before giving it a swift kick from the year. It’s not the vehicle I would choose either but for inclement weather I had to give it some credit - it did a great job of getting my wife home,
 
Yes, I don't hold it in high regard.

I've only used it once, backing up into my driveway. Hit a spot and the front wheels simply spun. Had to keep them spinning rather fast in order for the rears to start to spin--I'd hazard it was a 2:1 ratio on wheelspin, front to rear. Really had to keep things spinning in order for the rears to do their job.

Is it better than no power to the rear? Yes, you have me there. It is better than FWD. Awesome and capable? Meh. In snow and ice you are required to blow away whatever traction the front may have before the rears can do their thing.

Arguably I need better tires--but once on, the RWD portion isn't going to be doing much. Better than nothing? Sure, perhaps I'm dogging it too much.

Perhaps mine is broken somehow--yes it got rear diff fluid changes over the years, unless if the dealership records are lying. But if not, then I can see why they call this "slip and grip" AWD, although it's more like "spin and hope" for this example.
 
I’d be disappointed in that too, that’s not enough push to really help. Our 97 behaved differently, and I thought they used the same dual-pump unit in the rear, but I’m probably wrong. It felt like it would tolerate about half a full wheel rotation and then it would lock up. BUT, once everything was turning (in lock) the pressure would drop and it would relax until more wheel spin happened. I could feel it dragging in sharp pavement maneuvers. Perhaps the agressiveness of the early designs received some complaints. they made a lot of changes between the gen 1 and gen 2 CRVs, which seemed mostly for the better. But yeah I see your point ... that wouldn’t work for me either.

the sh-awd in the mdx is also very torque limited in the rear. 145ft/lbs per each half shaft is all the rear axle is required to provide, or a total of 290 ft/lbs to the rear. Assuming a what... 29” tire or so or 15 inch radius, that’s 250 pounds of thrust. as LAME as that is, it also made a surprisingly big difference in snow. But I could also feel it when the “full lock” slipped, very easily, if attempting mud or some such.

that lesser known factory manual specification, for me, kissed away any props I could really offer to the ridgeline, as it uses the same driveline. 250lbs of thrust from the rear. No.
 
I'm probably dogging on it too much, maybe basing too much on one or two experiences. It coincides with other feelings about the vehicle.

I always did like the RAV4, or least certain years, where it had a "diff lock" on the dash for the center diff. Yeah I know, it didn't have a center diff, it was a variable clutch buried into the rear diff, but the operation is similar enough. Hit the button and at low speeds it would try to act like a part time 4WD setup. Kinda nice in snow duty IMO. Not that I ever got to try one out, it just seems better on paper. Maybe it isn't. Was watching some vids on the latest RAV4 and it certainly did not look very capable when situated on rollers so as to test out, not sure if that feature still exists or not.
 
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