Go with a run of the AMSOIL AFL 5w-40.
2002 LS1 Camaro older green German Castrol 0w30 5k
- Thread starter Chris B.
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Patman
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I don't think I've ever seen a conventional 5w40.
How about you give Amsoil 5w40 a chance here?
If you go the Amsoil route, the DEO 5w-40 (CJ-4/SM diesel oil) is a little cheaper than the AFL 5w-40 (European formula).
I agree with Ted. 5w-40 Rotella should work well in this application. My guess is two things are working against you. One is the clearances must want a heaver oil ie 40 weight. Additives I am guessing are part of this picture. Your engine metalurgy just doesn't like them. Another good choice would be to mix 5w-30 mobil 1 EP with 15w-50 EP. I have had great results with this combo at 3 to 1 ratio. Comes out about 10-40 weight.
maybe the wife takes it to the track on weekends behind your back??
seriously - the first thing I'd do is stop all additives and switch to a different oil. some decent recommendations above.
don't be too hard on your advisor - some engines just shed more than others, and no guru in the world can stop that. how low was your previous TBN? does this car have an OLM?
seriously - the first thing I'd do is stop all additives and switch to a different oil. some decent recommendations above.
don't be too hard on your advisor - some engines just shed more than others, and no guru in the world can stop that. how low was your previous TBN? does this car have an OLM?
Quote:
maybe the wife takes it to the track on weekends behind your back??
seriously - the first thing I'd do is stop all additives and switch to a different oil. some decent recommendations above.
don't be too hard on your advisor - some engines just shed more than others, and no guru in the world can stop that. how low was your previous TBN? does this car have an OLM?
TBN was 1.9 at 5,000 miles on oil.....pretty bad for GC and LC mix. The car does have an OLM and it comes on after about 4,000 miles and I take it to 5,000 then dump the oil and reset the OLM.
I think I will try Rotella T Synthetic 5w40.
Chris:
Looks like you've got some potentially helpful ideas already suggested. Two things occur to me. First, I think that the OLM signaling a change at 4k miles is a hint. From my own ~two year OLM experience (but in a very different vehicle, 98 Regal GS, supercharged) and the observations of other members, that seems a bit early. Keeping in mind that the OLM has no way of knowing what type of oil is actually installed, and that it essentially just tallies up "stress factors" from data in the ECU, I'd say that your ECU is objectively measuring something (or maybe a group of "somethings") that's putting added stress on your oil. Early OLM signal, GC beaten to #@$%!, and high wear metals -- that looks like a pattern. If it was just a failing of the oil, the OLM should not be going off early. No, IMO, something else is going on. But the GC is still not off the hook (though it might be "innocent"), since whatever is happening, this known-to-be-durable oil is not holding up (while the vis is OK, the 1.9 TBN is not...).
Second, I would try as much as you can to change only one factor at a time, so that if and when you do see a turn around, you'll be able to have some confidence in knowing which particular change actually gave you the better results. On the other hand, while these numbers are not a disaster, I too would want to get them down sooner vs later, so it will be tempting to quickly try whatever it seems might help. Just remember, the more quick changes you make, the less valid understanding you'll have of your results.
Last thought: I wonder if you might not have gotten a bad iron/steel part in your rebuild (or perhaps badly installed). Other than your Fe, your #s aren't that bad.
Good luck with it.
Looks like you've got some potentially helpful ideas already suggested. Two things occur to me. First, I think that the OLM signaling a change at 4k miles is a hint. From my own ~two year OLM experience (but in a very different vehicle, 98 Regal GS, supercharged) and the observations of other members, that seems a bit early. Keeping in mind that the OLM has no way of knowing what type of oil is actually installed, and that it essentially just tallies up "stress factors" from data in the ECU, I'd say that your ECU is objectively measuring something (or maybe a group of "somethings") that's putting added stress on your oil. Early OLM signal, GC beaten to #@$%!, and high wear metals -- that looks like a pattern. If it was just a failing of the oil, the OLM should not be going off early. No, IMO, something else is going on. But the GC is still not off the hook (though it might be "innocent"), since whatever is happening, this known-to-be-durable oil is not holding up (while the vis is OK, the 1.9 TBN is not...).
Second, I would try as much as you can to change only one factor at a time, so that if and when you do see a turn around, you'll be able to have some confidence in knowing which particular change actually gave you the better results. On the other hand, while these numbers are not a disaster, I too would want to get them down sooner vs later, so it will be tempting to quickly try whatever it seems might help. Just remember, the more quick changes you make, the less valid understanding you'll have of your results.
Last thought: I wonder if you might not have gotten a bad iron/steel part in your rebuild (or perhaps badly installed). Other than your Fe, your #s aren't that bad.
Good luck with it.
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So, you think your OLM is telling you to change your oil too soon? You are having wear metal problems and you change your oil 1k beyond the change interval recommended by your OLM? I think we have found out why you have wear metal problems, and it is not the oil.
The GC works very well in this application. If you are depleting the TBN that quickly, it's due to the driving conditions (temps and average trip length), and/or the mechanical condition of the motor. This includes combustion efficiency, the EGR duty cycle and the # of blowby you are getting into the crankcase.
I'd try the GC, 0w-30 again (without the LC20) and see how it does. The stuff works wonderfully in Patmans Corvette, so the variable here is NOT the oil, but your particular set of service conditions.
TD
I'd try the GC, 0w-30 again (without the LC20) and see how it does. The stuff works wonderfully in Patmans Corvette, so the variable here is NOT the oil, but your particular set of service conditions.
TD
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