2002 LS1 Camaro older green German Castrol 0w30 5k

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2002 Camaro Z28 LS1
German Castrol 0w30(green older stuff batch M04xxxxx)
5,000 miles on oil.
40,000 miles on car and engine

I'm really starting to get #@$%! about this #@$%! poor wear!!! I'm paying big bucks to "tune" my oil and all I'm getting is high through the roof wear!!!! Here is the full history through UOA's on this engine starting with this UOA followed to the first:
This UOA.................................first UOA.
Aluminum 3/3/3/2/2/3/2/3

Chromium 1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1

Iron 26/19/20/10/12/31/9/16

Copper 32/25/42/44/56/63/52/118

Lead 9/7/10/5/5/6/4/8

Tin 2/0/2/1/3/6/3/3

Molybdenum 7/5/11/10/60/74/65/68

Nickel 1/1/1/0/1/1/0/1

Manganese 1/1/1/1/1/1/1/0

Potassium 0/1/3/3/3/2/2/0

Boron 0/3/10/17/140/152/119/157

Silicon 9/8/10/10/12/23/37/14

Sodium 3/2/3/3/6/6/2/9

SUS viscosity @210 degreese F 64.0

Flashpoint 435

Fuel 0

Antifreeze 0

Insolubles 0.2

TBN 1.9!!!!!!! Down that low in 5,000 miles!!!!!!!!

A little history on this Camaro:
It is my wifes car and she does not drive it hard at all. It was burning oil and had piston slap and GM rebulit the engine because of that at 12,000 miles. The 2nd UOA from the right was the 1st UOA done after the rebuild using Halvoling dino oil and that UOA was the best one. The engine still has piston slap(to me it sounds a little like a diesel engine sound) and it burns oil but not much(maybe 16oz in 5,000 miles. The car runs great and is very quick.
I really want to get much lower iron wear and wear across the board. I'm loosing faith in German Castrol fast and the company that is advising me(I won't name names). One reason I'm having doubts in my adviser is I was told to take this OCI to 10,000 miles when the TBN is at 1.9. I see much harder driven LS1's with MUCH lower wear. Frankly I'm really #@$%!! Here my car already has 45,000 miles and I'm still trying to find the proper oil regime. I'm dropping $45 per UOA and using expensive GC and babying the car and geting high wear!!! I'm not getting my money's worth!!!
What should my next move be? I'll have another 5,000 mile GC UOA in a few more weeks and I'm betting my wear will be even higher...I'll post it as soon as I hit the mileage soon. I have enough GC for 1 more oil change and I'm going to take that to just 3,000 miles and see what I get and then I'm going to be changing oils.
What should my next move be? I'm thinking of using Castrol GTX 5w30. I use this in my 1997 Tahoe with a 350 V8 and wear is SUPER LOW!!!! like 4ppm iron, 1 Aluminium, 1 Chromium, 2 copper ect. In fact Black Stone Labs told me I had the lowest wearing chevy 350 on record!!!!! I give credit to the Castrol GTX.

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP!!!!!!!!!!
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I'd try 10w-40 Havoline next time. Not every motor will show the lowest numbers with GC.
 
Quote:


I'd try 10w-40 Havoline next time. Not every motor is show the lowest numbers with GC.




The car is driven year round even in the snow and freezing temps so I need a good cold weather oil. How well would Halvoline 10w40 do in freezing temps?
 
If you need a 5w-30 in winter depending on your temps certainly stick with that. Summer I would experiment going thicker.
 
So Castrol GTX 5w30 in winter and GTX 10w40 summer? Wonder if I should stick with a synthetic? My Tahoe does so good on dino I may try it in the Camaro.
 
I simply say this based on looking at hundreds of UOA's here. And I went through several gallons of LC on all sorts of cars (mine and customers) and it didn't help a thing. I reason that GC is a top notch oil, yet it's not a good fit for your car - now you add in LC and what did you get?

OK - LC is a good safe flush at high doses - but not a good "normal" additive IMHO.

FP seems to be the real deal in some cars.
 
farrarfan1, that was my first thought when I saw this post this morning. But ChrisB. says he has an 'adviser', so maybe he is using Terry's services already?
If ChrisB. is just relying on Blackstone's general blurb and BITOG member blurbs to guide him, then I would also highly reccomend seeking Terry's help.

Good luck ChrisB, hope you get things sorted.

Regards,
 
I would highly consider using a 5w-40 year round. Rotella 5w-40 would be perfect; Kings/City Market grocery stores around Colorado usually have 5w-40 Chevron Supreme synthetic; it NEVER moves - talk with the store manager and they'll give you a deal.
 
Quote:


I simply say this based on looking at hundreds of UOA's here. And I went through several gallons of LC on all sorts of cars (mine and customers) and it didn't help a thing. I reason that GC is a top notch oil, yet it's not a good fit for your car - now you add in LC and what did you get?

OK - LC is a good safe flush at high doses - but not a good "normal" additive IMHO.

FP seems to be the real deal in some cars.




Thanks for the info. I'll keep that in mind.
 
I don't believe a well maintained modern vehicles needs or is likely to benefit from most additives. Considering your good results with GTX in a similar application it seems like a simple thing to just switch over to it and stop all the other nonsense.
 
Try an SAE 5w-40, synthetic diesel oil like Rotella T and skip the oil additives (the FP-60 is excellent at low dose level). Run the same oil two times in a row and test the second batch you run. I think you'll like the results much better...

Ted
 
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