I am worried about the radiator coolant mixing with the transmission fluid. Been there, done that. No fun.
But I see your point. Kinda why I am asking for other points of view.
2001 Tundra - Replace orig Radiator?
- Thread starter JeffKeryk
- Start date
But I see your point. Kinda why I am asking for other points of view.
Some of these Toyota radiators are notorious for trans fluid to coolant leaks and when that happens it's transmission replacement time. I would rather replace the radiator than a transmission.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
She will find me more to do … 94F be ****ed
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
They should be able to pressure test at a radiator shop … best place to fail one …
Yes, it will be a few bucks but you are looking for another 50k+ miles on an older unit …
(more time for the Texas Edition Tesla Truck to be proven up) …
I got ambitious in my old Rav4 and changed out the radiator hoses and thermostat and cap. The radiator was brittle and the sleeves fell apart when I removed the hoses. So had to get a new radiator. Not too hard of a job. My aftermarket cap was defective so I'd stick with oem parts.
But. 200+ degrees is the same. Climate won't make any difference with a properly functioning cooling system.
When a guy takes off the upper hose if the connection under where the hose has turned brown it's ready to break.
The OE radiator is part number 16400-0F020. Its about $500, made by Denso in Michigan. Who knows now though, if the old stock has been used up or of they have continued producing them.
The Toyota value radiator is 16410-AZ018. They are around $200. I have not seen the one specifically for the 4.7 in Access Cab Tundras, but the radiators I have seen for other applications were made in Taiwan. Quality seemed fine.
The Denso 221-0517 replacement is $120 to $150 depending on the source, and made in China. At least the last one I dealt with was about 2 years ago. Quality was fine.
You may already have this info from your searching.
When I had to replace the radiator in my 4.7 Tundra, I just used the Denso. Amazon had it for $117 delivered.
The Toyota value radiator is 16410-AZ018. They are around $200. I have not seen the one specifically for the 4.7 in Access Cab Tundras, but the radiators I have seen for other applications were made in Taiwan. Quality seemed fine.
The Denso 221-0517 replacement is $120 to $150 depending on the source, and made in China. At least the last one I dealt with was about 2 years ago. Quality was fine.
You may already have this info from your searching.
When I had to replace the radiator in my 4.7 Tundra, I just used the Denso. Amazon had it for $117 delivered.
Last edited:
Are there even such shops still around? Maybe in Texas or Cali where cars don't rust and 30 or 40 year old models are still around, but I haven't seen a dedicated radiator shop here in over 20 years. When you can get a brand new one delivered to your door for $50 to $100, no rad shop can compete with that unless you have an antique.
Most custom radiator core manufacturers and such are on the east coast. Don't forget trucks and equipment.someone has to repair those.
On 20 year old vehicles, it is wise to do preventative maintenance so as to not get stranded, have a catastrophic failure at highway speeds, and/or create very expensive and wide spread repairs. It's also more economical if you can plan maintenance items, versus having your vehicle arrive at the autoshop on a flatbed where you have limited options on prices and parts, limited to "what is available right now," versus buying the best parts for the least money.
Is the Tundra plastic and metal core? If so I would replace it. I just am going through this with my T100. I reinstalled the old radiator, which was a Koyorad aftermarket already, and lo and behold the upper tank now has a crack in it, right on top. Maybe my handling did it but I never dropped it. Dang, so I got a new one arriving any day now. I picked the Denso because at least I have heard of the name and it is known for good products. Extremely friendly to replace a radiator on this. I used a 1/4 extension through the grill to put in the two bolts that hold the whole thing in place. Now I get to do it again, andit always results in blood due to scraping something sharp in the grill gap area. I suppose it is easy to take the grill off but with the luck as it is going I would break a grill pin.
Hoses I also wanted, and bought Gates, but they don’t fit. Correct in the Gates catalog. Not even close to the right bends. Going to have to get them at the dealer while they still have them, no one is making them anymore, the molded ones. Now I have two hoses that can’t be returned as it has been like a year and a half ago from Rock auto.
Hoses I also wanted, and bought Gates, but they don’t fit. Correct in the Gates catalog. Not even close to the right bends. Going to have to get them at the dealer while they still have them, no one is making them anymore, the molded ones. Now I have two hoses that can’t be returned as it has been like a year and a half ago from Rock auto.
Similar threads
