Good afternoon!, Im always looking for projects, and this one is a 2001 Chrysler Concorde v6 most likely the 3.2... 141K miles, very clean, older lady owned, and driven... Whats involved in replacing the head gaskets? From google, seems pretty involved, but straight forwarded. She bought a new car, and does not want to fix it,@ $800 so she would like it gone, and for less then scrap price, so im thinking it would be a great experience, or if i cant do it, atleast get it taken apart the best i can, and have the local shop fix it... Possible to see 200K miles?.. Any other know issues with this model? It has the 4 speed automatic.. Should i just let them junk it? seems like a pretty nice Chrysler, almost mini 300 of the era. Thanks!..
2001 Chrysler Concorde V6 head gasket..
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I actually think a non running cloud car that's 10 years old is worth even less, but that's just me.
Not an impossible task. I don't think they are very easy to work on due to the small hoods, but it could be a fun project provided you don't have to drop the engine or anything.
If it is a 3.2 its a pretty good engine. I'm thinking because its broken, it may not be. LOL
Not an impossible task. I don't think they are very easy to work on due to the small hoods, but it could be a fun project provided you don't have to drop the engine or anything.
If it is a 3.2 its a pretty good engine. I'm thinking because its broken, it may not be. LOL
What caused the head gasket to fail? An old lady driven car with 141k miles should not have a head gasket failure. And if the car has a head gasket failure due to catastrophic cooling system failure, then the head gasket might not be the only damaged part. If it failed just because of poor design, and all you need to replace is the head gasket, then it's not a hard job. But if it failed due to severely overheating then some more expensive part of the engine such as the cylinder head or short block could be cracked.
Another option is to swap in a used engine from a junk yard. Depending on how much the engine is, it should be comparable in cost to repairing the head gasket (assuming you are paying a shop for both options). I would definitely suggest doing the head gasket repair yourself though, it's not difficult at all, just time consuming.
Also it's easy to tell which engine these cars has: the LX has the 2.7 and the LXi has the 3.2. The 2.7 has issues with the timing chain guides and the chain itself, 3.2 doesn't have those problems.
Another option is to swap in a used engine from a junk yard. Depending on how much the engine is, it should be comparable in cost to repairing the head gasket (assuming you are paying a shop for both options). I would definitely suggest doing the head gasket repair yourself though, it's not difficult at all, just time consuming.
Also it's easy to tell which engine these cars has: the LX has the 2.7 and the LXi has the 3.2. The 2.7 has issues with the timing chain guides and the chain itself, 3.2 doesn't have those problems.
Im going to look at it this weekend. Im pretty sure the car did NOT overheat, as it was only driven a few miles back to her house after it gave out and then parked because she has a couple other vehicles.. Im pretty sure its along the lines of a poor design then abuse or neglect.... As she is telling me not to run the engine, so the coolant does not mix.... It gives out white smoke, but runs well... Also has a stack of recipes for tires, brakes, rotors, oil/Transmission service, battery, and a whole bunch of other items, as she just invested around $1000 to give it a FULL tune up.. 2 1/2 weeks later, it blows a gasket... i wonder if the Tstat was replaced with that tune up? Well see this weekend... Thanks for the knowledge on this Chrysler... It will be a first for me.. Its going to be a fun song and dance.. :-D
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The 3.2 is not known for head gasket failures. If it is blown, it blew for a reason. The electric fans like to go bad on these so it is quite possible it was an overheat. Head bolts are TTY, so replace them if you pull the heads.
If it is a 2.7, you'll pay a pretty penny for a used replacement as it is such a troublesome engine in these cars that the supply is scarce.
The LXi could be optioned with a 2.7, so you'll have to confirm it yourself.
If it were me and the car is in great condition, I woudl just replace the engine with a used 3.2 or 3.5. It can be swapped in place of the 2.7, but it's a bit more work.
Good luck.
If it is a 2.7, you'll pay a pretty penny for a used replacement as it is such a troublesome engine in these cars that the supply is scarce.
The LXi could be optioned with a 2.7, so you'll have to confirm it yourself.
If it were me and the car is in great condition, I woudl just replace the engine with a used 3.2 or 3.5. It can be swapped in place of the 2.7, but it's a bit more work.
Good luck.
Often a head gasket fails because the coolant is not changed often enough, or gets mixed with an unapproved coolant.
Check your engine for garbage in the cooling system.
Check your engine for garbage in the cooling system.
So i picked it up for less then the 2 new tires on it. The engine is a 2.7L :-( Has about 10Qts of MILK in the oil... It had every oil change from 3000 - 3500 miles like clock work, all on file. Transmission fluid is perfect, red.... I have not stated it. so dont know how it sounds. But they said it was ran 2 miles after it started smoking white, then parked for 9 Months.. I am going to drain the oil, and drop the oil pan, and see how much sludge is at the bottom end... the oil stick along with the oil cap were very clean, just minus the white milkshake looking oil..... Im looking at 2 head gaskets, a water pump, and timing belt... all for a first timer.. lol.. Im going to buy a factory service manual, or minimum a haynes manual.... I can follow directions to a T, and know what most parts are, so i feel i can do it, so as long the engine is not needed to be pulled, or other major work. If its just removing parts, that should not be a issue.... Thanks!! PS the oil cap said 5W20?????
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Sweet!
My first foray into serious motor work (it was a new years resolution to myself) was a 1994 dodge spirit 2.5 with blown head gasket. I fixed it as described on minimopar/allpar, put it all together, started it, it ran... then stalled a minute later. Drove up the hill from me and white smoke was spewing all out the exhaust. Duh, it was left over from before! It all cleared out.
BITOG had alerted me (was 2004) to some 59 cent clearance oil from target, I ran about 20-24 quarts through that car flushing the peanut butter out.
That car has the motor in fore-to-aft, right? Should be easy to work on. Any hard to reach areas under the cowl?
Don't discount youtube for hints, there are videos for everything now. Might be reassuring to see real engines "in the field" that are as rusty and greasy as the one you're tackling.
My first foray into serious motor work (it was a new years resolution to myself) was a 1994 dodge spirit 2.5 with blown head gasket. I fixed it as described on minimopar/allpar, put it all together, started it, it ran... then stalled a minute later. Drove up the hill from me and white smoke was spewing all out the exhaust. Duh, it was left over from before! It all cleared out.
BITOG had alerted me (was 2004) to some 59 cent clearance oil from target, I ran about 20-24 quarts through that car flushing the peanut butter out.
That car has the motor in fore-to-aft, right? Should be easy to work on. Any hard to reach areas under the cowl?
Don't discount youtube for hints, there are videos for everything now. Might be reassuring to see real engines "in the field" that are as rusty and greasy as the one you're tackling.
I wish you well, but don't expect to get away with head gaskets on this car. The 2.7 uses a chain, a very long chain at that. The water pump is not external, like the 3.2/3.5. When it leaks, it can go two ways. Through the external weep hole or directly into the crankcase. Some do both. The milky oil tells you which way yours went.
I would expect some bearing damage as the WP was probably leaking for a while before all [censored] broke loose. I would suggest you price up a used 3.2/3.5 and consider doing the swap. It's well worth the extra trouble as it is more robust and the 2.7 is really underpowered in a car this big. You can research the swap on http://www.dodgeintrepid.net to get an idea on what is involved.
Maybe you'll get lucky and I hope you do, but I would hate to see you spend the money on gaskets, timing chain, guides, head bolts, etc. only to have the 2.7 give you a heavy lower end knock a week later.
I would expect some bearing damage as the WP was probably leaking for a while before all [censored] broke loose. I would suggest you price up a used 3.2/3.5 and consider doing the swap. It's well worth the extra trouble as it is more robust and the 2.7 is really underpowered in a car this big. You can research the swap on http://www.dodgeintrepid.net to get an idea on what is involved.
Maybe you'll get lucky and I hope you do, but I would hate to see you spend the money on gaskets, timing chain, guides, head bolts, etc. only to have the 2.7 give you a heavy lower end knock a week later.
So if the headgasket is OK,(I think im going to do a compression test of some kind) and its really just the water pump, i hear Chrysler redesigned them in 00-01, so most likely it already had the redesigned one, can i just replace the water pump & gasket, and be on my way? I am going to drain out all 10-15 QTS of sludge, fill it up with clean dollar general oil, start it up, run it for 2 mins, and drain agian, do this a few times, and will this clean it up? Should i pull the pan first?? How likely are the valves, pistons, bearings, to be damaged? Are these engines really that under powered @ 200Hp? seems not bad at all, the Hyundai 3.5L makes LESS HP, but slightly more TQ. Im sure the 3.2L would be a slightly decent upgrade, but i called a local yard, and they said i would need to buy a engine, transmission, ECM, and a couple of parts....
Thanks much!.
Thanks much!.
I really don't think the 2.7 was that much of a slug in this vehicle. Certainly nothing to write home about, but as a DD it wasn't bad.
Remember the water pump is driven by the timing chain on this engine, so replacing it is a chore. Take some pictures once you get the cover off, we want to see! I am sure it will give you a good idea about the rest of the engine.
From the history of these 2.7s, I wouldn't invest much time or money into trying to save this motor. These engines barely lasted 100k, so you're really better off doing a motor swap if you want to end up saving this car.
Remember the water pump is driven by the timing chain on this engine, so replacing it is a chore. Take some pictures once you get the cover off, we want to see! I am sure it will give you a good idea about the rest of the engine.
From the history of these 2.7s, I wouldn't invest much time or money into trying to save this motor. These engines barely lasted 100k, so you're really better off doing a motor swap if you want to end up saving this car.
Update. I was calling just local yard to see what an engine transfer would be. $900 for another 2.7. They said i cant go bigger or i would also need transmission, and PCM,.. Dont know how much this car is really worth.. SO i was thinking, how about replacing the WP, Tchain, Tensioners, before putting a JY motor in, and hopefully not have problems... Worth it or nah? See how bad current one is then go from that point?? I have not even started taking this one apart yet.. Thanks!
The transmissions are the same on the 2.7 and 3.2-3.5 You can buy a kit on ebay to do the water pump,chain and tensioners.
If you are going to pull the engine I would put in a 3.5. It'll bolt right up to the trans. Get the PCM with the replacement engine. The 3.5 is a more powerful and reliable engine.
If you are going to pull the engine I would put in a 3.5. It'll bolt right up to the trans. Get the PCM with the replacement engine. The 3.5 is a more powerful and reliable engine.
as others have said - you do not need a new transmission. arguably any 2.7 with that many miles is toast. a complete rebuild would be an education but most people familiar with the LH's would recommend upgrading to the 3.2 or 3.5. as said, there are kits, books, available. the 3.2 and 3.5 are cheap on the used market. there is also (at least) one forum that specializes in LH's and MANY members have documented the engine swap. the 2.7 is an ok engine - but too low on torque for around town. they really shoulda kept using the 3.3. but the 3.2 pulls nice and the 3.5 is awesome. or, you could always put in a reman'd 2.7 also, just to learn more - do a g-search on "rebuilding dodge 2.7" and you should see a link to an engine rebuilder magazine artical on the engine. I'd post the exact link but I'm not sure thats allowed here
I forgot to mention: if you keep a 2.7 in there, use the best synthetic oil you can afford and dont extend the OCI. Yes, I have an 02 Intrepid and know the car fairly well. when you have transmission problems - I know a few of the fixes for those....
DO NO even bother with fixing the 2.7, and you sure as heck won't get away with just head gaskets on that POS. If the head gaskets have gone, the whole engine is probably toast.
The best bet is to re-engine it completely with a 3.2 or 3.5. Google around, some place used to sell a fairly complete kit for that changeover. Be aware that the 2.7 had a different final drive ratio in the transaxle to help it be less of a slug (it didn't really help- the 2.7 is a pigdog even in a Sebring), so swapping to a 3.5 will actually make it a little quicker than a factory 3.5 Concorde. Of course swapping the entire engine/transaxle is pretty easy. Maybe even easier than just the engine.
The best bet is to re-engine it completely with a 3.2 or 3.5. Google around, some place used to sell a fairly complete kit for that changeover. Be aware that the 2.7 had a different final drive ratio in the transaxle to help it be less of a slug (it didn't really help- the 2.7 is a pigdog even in a Sebring), so swapping to a 3.5 will actually make it a little quicker than a factory 3.5 Concorde. Of course swapping the entire engine/transaxle is pretty easy. Maybe even easier than just the engine.
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