2000 Toyota 4runner, 2.7L (3RZ-FE), 310,694 miles, Chevron Supreme 5w-30 synthetic blend

[Chip_Diamond]

My 4runner was still running strong, until 298,425 miles. It had been getting hot, randomly, for a month. (About 80% up on the gauge), and then cooling down. Come to find out, one of the hoses had a hole in it. I couldn't get off work to bring it to a mechanic, which probably did not help.

On the day of bringing it to the mechanic, it started overheating on me. I've never had a "hot car" before. Made so many mistakes that day. Instead of "limping" it over, blasting the heater, or other techniques...I "tried to make it", the last 5 minutes to the mechanic. Yea, I didn't make it. Hindsight is 20/20, and it was a painful lesson. At that point, the gauge was all the way hot, (for the first time ever). The car died on me, on the street. Some guys helped me push it to the side of the road.

Got the engine rebuilt. They replaced the cylinder head with a new one, apparently the block was fine, (these engines have an iron block). The shop put their own synthetic blend oil in it. I have done two oil changes since. Chevron Supreme 5w-30, synthetic blend, each time. (First one at 300,670 and second one at 305, 470).

This Blackstone Report seems pretty good? Nevertheless, it has a couple worrying comments. Please let me know what you think. Any comments are appreciated!

 

[CharBaby]

I think that a couple more short OCIs will clean up those higher PPM#s as there still seems to be traces of coolant in the engine oil.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

I think that a couple more short OCIs will clean up those higher PPM#s as there still seems to be traces of coolant in the engine oil.

Thanks for the tip.

Yes, that engine had been running on full hot, for 5+ minutes. It was a dramatic death. So basically, coolant may have gotten into places in the engine?

This may be "neither here nor there", but after the rebuild, the engine is way stronger. The torque especially. It is a manual, and pulls up hills in 5th gear, that used to be impossible, (had to drop into 4th).

 

[fantastic]

Understand, so long as we're all human, mistakes will be made. I would speculate that the coolant contamination is still present inside the engine & will wash out over changes. Just know that it is pretty difficult for sodium & potassium to be removed but not impossible. It will take some time though and is why it's still present. I've never seen BS write "SHORT" in the flashpoint before? Overall as expected & it looks good for it's experience.

 

[ka9mnx]

Looks good for a rebuilt.

 

[KEVINK0000]

Looks like this was perhaps a head replacement, not an actual full rebuild with pistons, bearings cam, lifters, etc. Is that the case? Either way i think a couple more short OCI will wash out remaining stuff with no issue.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

Understand, so long as we're all human, mistakes will be made. I would speculate that the coolant contamination is still present inside the engine & will wash out over changes. Just know that it is pretty difficult for sodium & potassium to be removed but not impossible. It will take some time though and is why it's still present. I've never seen BS write "SHORT" in the flashpoint before? Overall as expected & it looks good for it's experience.

Yes, definitely a mistake, smh. And now I know why, every car seems to have a Hot/Cold gauge, it must be important, lol! When I was talking to the mechanic later that day, he said "Never drive a hot car". Whoops. After owning several cars, that was my first, and dramatic experience with a hot engine.

Sounds good about the coolant hopefully washing out. Good to hear that the engine seems pretty healthy.

BS probably wrote "SHORT", because I tipped over the sample. Most of it spilled. There was still a small amount left in the tube. They were able to do most of the analysis, but there was not enough oil for the flashpoint, it seems.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

Looks like this was perhaps a head replacement, not an actual full rebuild with pistons, bearings cam, lifters, etc. Is that the case? Either way i think a couple more short OCI will wash out remaining stuff with no issue.

Yes, they did not do pistons, bearings, lifters, etc. Actually, I should confirm with them. The rebuild was a while ago, (May of 2024). He brought me back, and showed me the old parts. It was cool to see, I just remember seeing my timing chain in there, forgot the other stuff.

I've been doing ~5k oci's with this car. (Besides the short 2k change, when I first got the car back). Do you recommend shorter oci's the next couple rounds? Have been using Chevron Supreme 5w-30 synth blend. Last one, switched to Castrol GTX 10w-30. I like this oil more. It is more robust, and the engine just purrs with it.

 

[CharBaby]

I would say to do no more than 3Kmile OCI for the next few changes. And I think the oil(s) you’re using(Chevron & Castrol) are perfect for this. Even SuperTech or any decent store brand oil. Any good oils that you can get on the cheap will do.

 

[Chip_Diamond]

I would say to do no more than 3Kmile OCI for the next few changes. And I think the oil(s) you’re using(Chevron & Castrol) are perfect for this. Even SuperTech or any decent store brand oil. Any good oils that you can get on the cheap will do.

Thanks for the advice. Will shorten up the next few oci's. Probably with the $20 5-quart jugs, of Castrol GTX 10w-30 that I find at Walmart, love that stuff.

 

[AKhan87]

$20 5-quart jugs, of Castrol GTX 10w-30 that I find at Walmart, love that stuff.

are you referring to this Castrol GTX 10w30 - Conventional Motor Oil? This is $20.97 + tax on Walmart's website.

I would personally run the either Super Tech Synthetic Blend 5W-30 or Super Tech Synthetic Blend 10W-30 at 3k OCI and they are only $16.98 + tax for 3-4 oil changes and get a UOA to confirm the potassium levels have stabilized.

Once you confirm the potassium levels are no longer a concern, run Super Tech Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 at 5k OCI and it is only $19.98 + tax.

And if cost is not a concern, I would run a Euro oil.

Examples:
Quaker State Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $23.22
Castrol Edge Euro Full Synthetic 0W-40 - $23.97 current rollback
Castrol Edge Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $23.97 current rollback
Mobil 1 Euro Full Synthetic 0W-40 - $24.97 current rollback
Mobil 1 Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 - $24.97 current rollback

The engine was overheated to an "extreme" level by driving it, instead of getting it towed to a shop.

Looks like this was perhaps a head replacement, not an actual full rebuild with pistons, bearings cam, lifters, etc. Is that the case? Either way i think a couple more short OCI will wash out remaining stuff with no issue.

Exactly, this is a head & head gasket replacement.