2000 Nissan Altima Valve Train Pics

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This is like BITOG porn, so while I was replacing my valve cover gasket in the dark tonight, I snapped a few pics for everyone's enjoyment.

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If any of you remember, this is a low mile junkyard replacement motor that I recently installed. The current fill is M1 0w30 with a bottle of LubeGard Bio-Tech. And if I'm gonna be honest here, it's also got 1.5 oz. of Lucas Break-In Additive and half a bottle of LM MOS2...oh yeah, I already told on myself in my signature. DUH!!

When the engine was first installed, I ran 250 miles on some VWB, and then put in this brew to break it in. The current oil has 6500 miles on it with a Purolator Synthetic oil filter.
 
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So of the 165,000 miles on the Altima in your signiture, how many of those are actually on this engine?
How many were on the car that it was pulled from and how many have you put on it?
Only 300?
Why all the break in additives?
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
So of the 165,000 miles on the Altima in your signiture, how many of those are actually on this engine?
How many were on the car that it was pulled from and how many have you put on it?
Only 300?
Why all the break in additives?


There is currently 168k miles on the car. This junkyard engine had approximately 10-20k miles on it when I bought it. No one knows for sure, but since the factory paint marks were so clear on the block, and you can see the number "31" written with a marker on the cam (the last picture, on the bottom right of the image)....it was my assumption that the engine is very low mileage for a 13 year old engine. 10-20k miles is my estimate.

So far, this new motor has been driven approximately 6800 miles since being installed in my car. 250 miles on the initial fill of VWB when the car was installed, and now this brew based on M1 0w30.

Why the Moly and Zinc? I like Moly. I like the Bio-Tech product and LM MOS2 has always treated me well. The added Zinc will raise the M1 0w30 about 400ppm in zinc. This was added just for break in purposes. It's not harming anything, and I'm hoping it helps with break in. 7 days a week, this car makes 4-8 trips that are 2-3 miles one way. Turn the car off, restart 30 minutes later, and drive 2-3 miles back. Then once a week, it gets put on the highway going 80mph for 200-400 mile round trip runs.

I'm hoping the moly helps protect me from all those start ups.

Originally Posted By: bourne
Why not just run Redline break-in oil ??? Looks good btw


Mostly because all this stuff I already had laying around in my garage. I don't like ordering oil in the mail.

3 quarts of M1 0w30 = $15
1 Bottle LG Bio-Tech = $10
1/2 Bottle of LM MOS2 = $3.50
1.5 oz Lucas Break-In = $2.00

So, that's $30.50 for the oil and additives that I already had laying around. What would 4 quarts of Redline Break-In run me? I can't find it. I see they have a Break-In additive tho.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
What break-in are you referring to? You said the engine has 10k-20k on it already.


The engine was on a pallet inside an unheated building in Northern Ohio for ten years.
 
What happened to your original engine?

Great pics BTW and thanks for sharing.
 
Originally Posted By: k24a4
What happened to your original engine?


The set screw that hold the rotor onto the distributor shaft worked itself loose and fell out. The rotor is keyed, and only goes on one-way onto the dizzy shaft, but the key isn't very significant.

The rotor had actually spun on the dizzy shaft....about 90 degrees. This caused a cross-fire situation in my car. I'm not sure of the damage it may have caused to rods and valves, but the head gasket blew and I had almost ZERO compression in two cylinders.

A $0.12 screw blew up my motor. I found this super-mint engine about 1.5 hours away. I paid $1000 for it, but every other place wanted $700-$800 for a motor with 80-150k miles on it. It runs good. Right now, the car is throwing a P1441 code, "Very Small EVAP Leak"...I can't find the leak yet. But it's not running any differently.
 
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