2.4l kia optima recommendation

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As the title states, looking for a recommendation for my 2012 kia optima. I'm currently at 82,000 miles now. I used to run the edge titanium pre 40k miles. Then went to Penn ultra pre rebrand and a couple times after. Now ultra had become scarce in my area so can't decide what to go to next. Drop to Penn Plat or something else, I do alot of highway driving, pUT my foot in the pedal quite often (lol) but most of my miles are highway for work. In and outta town. Any input is appreciated
 
Been running QSUD 5w30 in mine and she's been pretty happy and healthy. Of course, I have ye old sewing machine noise, but nonetheless peppy. I do about 90/10 highway/city myself and love my 90-100+ mph jaunts at times lol. Nice and cheap for a good-quality syn, oh and I use Fram Ultra filters as well. Got about 72k myself
 
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Nothing wrong with PP I've been running it in my Dodge Journey for the last 3 oil changes and very pleased with it. Really, any synthetic by Castrol, Pennzoil, QS, Valvoline, Mobil1 and so on will do you fine you just need to find the one that makes your engine the happiest.
 
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I'd QSUD really good? I haven't used it since like 2006 or 07 in a Mazda.....how's the oxidation levels? For those 100mph spurts (lol). It seems like PU is hard to replace considering the additives it has.I used to swear by edge titanium but PU changed that after a uoa study I read up on. Also I normally only use dealer filters. Read something about oil pressure issues also noticed the difference in sound with a Purolator synthetic filter before. And my last OC was slightly dark. Was a few over. Doing 7500 oci. Was even thinking aboutaybe trying a European formula if anyone had any thoughts on that as well. I do drive kinda hard since I'm on the highway 85% of the time
 
I just bought 15qts of EDGE EP (Gold Bottle) for $2/qt at AZ. I wouldn't worry about what you read concerning someone elses UOA.
 
Originally Posted By: Batmanj30
I'd QSUD really good? I haven't used it since like 2006 or 07 in a Mazda.....how's the oxidation levels? For those 100mph spurts (lol). It seems like PU is hard to replace considering the additives it has.I used to swear by edge titanium but PU changed that after a uoa study I read up on. Also I normally only use dealer filters. Read something about oil pressure issues also noticed the difference in sound with a Purolator synthetic filter before. And my last OC was slightly dark. Was a few over. Doing 7500 oci. Was even thinking aboutaybe trying a European formula if anyone had any thoughts on that as well. I do drive kinda hard since I'm on the highway 85% of the time


Is your engine a TURBO?
Any of the oils mentioned will be fine! Even for those 100 MPH spurts.
smile.gif

Using the dealer filter is mentioned often here, otherwise FRAM Ultra is another recommendation.

Oh yeah, oil is supposed to get dark! That's the detergents doing their job.
 
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Originally Posted By: Char Baby


Is your engine a TURBO?
Any of the oils mentioned will be fine! Even for those 100 MPH spurts.
smile.gif

Using the dealer filter is mentioned often here, otherwise FRAM Ultra is another recommendation.

Oh yeah, oil is supposed to get dark! That's the detergents doing their job.


2.4 is GDi non-turbo. And I agree, any of the mentioned synthetics, as well as many others (synthetics/blends/conventionals), will do fine.

factory requirements:
SM/GF-4, 5w20
 
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I used Edge gold bottle in ours for a while and it was the top tier syn that most impressed me. I gave up on it when it got scarce, but now it seems to be readily available again.

M1 5w30 EP would be a great choice. And I don't think the current PP is in anyway "dropping" either. JMO.

Once I am out of warranty (at 60k since I am the second owner) I will probably run top tier syns at 10k OCI's and be done with it.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I used Edge gold bottle in ours for a while and it was the top tier syn that most impressed me. I gave up on it when it got scarce, but now it seems to be readily available again.

M1 5w30 EP would be a great choice. And I don't think the current PP is in anyway "dropping" either. JMO.

Once I am out of warranty (at 60k since I am the second owner) I will probably run top tier syns at 10k OCI's and be done with it.


which all are considered top tier syn? m1 ep? Castrol gold bottle, and what else? i like the edge titanium when i was using it, not really sure how i got so convinced with PU, thought about going Royal Purple but not sure if its a point...
 
You did not tell us what is the change interval and what is your annual mileage (also we could calculate it).

Like Weemay wrote, any oil that meets SM 5w-20 is enough in your car, even conventional oil.

Depending of your OCI and your annual mileage, you can shorten the list of oils that may meet your requirements.
 
Originally Posted By: Pesca
You did not tell us what is the change interval and what is your annual mileage (also we could calculate it).

Like Weemay wrote, any oil that meets SM 5w-20 is enough in your car, even conventional oil.

Depending of your OCI and your annual mileage, you can shorten the list of oils that may meet your requirements.


i normally run 7500-10k miles of 5w-30 (82k miles currently), a little over depending on the work schedule and timing issues. my annual? ive lost track, probably, 30k+, and thats being generous. considering how much driving i do highway for work.
 
My mom's 07 Optima 2.4 has done very well on M1 5w20 with the Puro Classic. She has ~110,000 miles now with no leaks or burns at all
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Batmanj30
Originally Posted By: Pesca
You did not tell us what is the change interval and what is your annual mileage (also we could calculate it).

Like Weemay wrote, any oil that meets SM 5w-20 is enough in your car, even conventional oil.

Depending of your OCI and your annual mileage, you can shorten the list of oils that may meet your requirements.


i normally run 7500-10k miles of 5w-30 (82k miles currently), a little over depending on the work schedule and timing issues. my annual? ive lost track, probably, 30k+, and thats being generous. considering how much driving i do highway for work.


Ok, then I will continue on synthetic, and since you drive a lot, and probably don't have much time changing oil often, you could try the extended drain version of the synthetic oil.

First oil that comes to mind is M1 5w-20 EP which seems very well regarded here and see if you can push it to 15k miles OCI.
From what I understand you can buy it at walmart for about the same price than regular M1 when it is on rollback.

Other choices are PU, Castrol edge, and other main brands.
 
I also own a non-turbo GDI Hyundai and I tend to gravitate to the SOPUS oils like PP and QSUD largely because of the lower NOACK and my good experience with them. I typically don't run greater than 5K OCI intervals because of the GDI engine. Although it's an anecdote, I have a mechanic friend who's opinion I trust and has usually been proven correct. He says that he wouldn't do over 5-6K OCIs on GDI engines in general and I tend to believe him and do changes at that interval. In my experience, it's probably less about the oil itself vs. the right oil for the engine with the GDI. Definitely synthetic, definitely low NOACK/TEOST, low SAPS etc. versus if it has 2.1 TBN versus 2.4 TBN showing on a UOA after 5-7K miles.
 
So with the longer intervals, and me keeping my foot in the pedal (lol) I'd assume the castrol edge titanium (gold bottle) would be best option? Or if the only choices were edge titanium, royal purple, QSUD, M1 EP and PP Which would you choose? Those are readily available at a local walmart right now.
 
So with the longer intervals, and me keeping my foot in the pedal (lol) I'd assume the castrol edge titanium (gold bottle) would be best option? Or if the only choices were edge titanium, royal purple, QSUD, M1 EP and PP Which would you choose? Those are readily available at a local walmart right now.
 
Originally Posted By: Batmanj30
So with the longer intervals, and me keeping my foot in the pedal (lol) I'd assume the castrol edge titanium (gold bottle) would be best option? Or if the only choices were edge titanium, royal purple, QSUD, M1 EP and PP Which would you choose? Those are readily available at a local walmart right now.


I'd choose the cheaper one since they are all top notch, and change out at no more than 7500 miles. But if extending, either of the Extended Performance oils or RP.
 
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Originally Posted By: Batmanj30
I'd QSUD really good? I haven't used it since like 2006 or 07 in a Mazda.....how's the oxidation levels? For those 100mph spurts (lol). It seems like PU is hard to replace considering the additives it has.I used to swear by edge titanium but PU changed that after a uoa study I read up on. Also I normally only use dealer filters. Read something about oil pressure issues also noticed the difference in sound with a Purolator synthetic filter before. And my last OC was slightly dark. Was a few over. Doing 7500 oci. Was even thinking aboutaybe trying a European formula if anyone had any thoughts on that as well. I do drive kinda hard since I'm on the highway 85% of the time


If it helps, here's my most recent UOA on mine:



The only reason why vis is low is because I used PP 5w20 to top it off. Otherwise, I've had no issues whatsoever with my current oil choice (granted, some of the better numbers could very well be because of said PP 5w20, which is something I'll be curious about when I send in my next UOA).
smile.gif


Of note: top-off rate was 3/4 qt. in the time frame listed on the UOA.
 
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2010 Hyundai 2.4L DD, ready to hit 77k on the clock.
5k OCI's & OEM filters.

Was using PP (5w-20 winter, 5w-30 non-winter), but then tried Kendall full synthetic for a few OCI's. Then the shop that had the Kendall stopped selling it so back to PP. Then when going back to PP bad luck finding it locally on shelf that day.
So, decided to try PYB and on 2nd OC with it since 5k OCI's. Sticking with 5w-30 year around.
Haven't had to add any oil using any of the oils mentioned during the OC run. Can't really tell any difference, so next OC may try MS5K or stick to PYB.
 
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