I wish the OP would come back and let us know if his daughter can drive a stick. I would bet not. She is just going to love that stick when she goes to bigger cities and sits in traffic... NOT!
1st Car Suggestions
- Thread starter Pat in Speedway
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
soooooooo??????
She'll learn, like everyone else.
Especially for someone who has $3000 max to spend, she cant afford luxury, barebones is better, maintenance is less, and shell learn more.
Lets try to help keep her from turning into the typical mash the go pedal idiot.
JMH
She'll learn, like everyone else.
Especially for someone who has $3000 max to spend, she cant afford luxury, barebones is better, maintenance is less, and shell learn more.
Lets try to help keep her from turning into the typical mash the go pedal idiot.
JMH
I think that windnsea00 said something very important --> agility and safety. I know that your budget is tight, and note that my first car was $400 (34 years ago), and my 2nd car was $1250. However, I think that I have learned something since then. Please consider that her overall safety is very important. This means researching the crash rating, rollover rating (NO Jeep!), making decisions about air bags, ABS, good headlight coverage, good brakes, good tires, A/C to clear the windows, and even remote locks. Features like that make a difference in avoiding a crash and even more so if involved in a crash. Young people are at most risk on the road, even with good training, due to lack of experience and judgement. Think of it this way - the young people actually need the "best" car!
I have 2 kids, ages 18 and 16, and am fortunate to be able to practice what I now preach. I know that your situation may be different, but I hope that you will consider that driving a car is probably the most dangerous thing for a young person to do, so try to gain back margins of safety as much as you can with a lot of training, and a safe car. I hope that your car search goes well !
I have 2 kids, ages 18 and 16, and am fortunate to be able to practice what I now preach. I know that your situation may be different, but I hope that you will consider that driving a car is probably the most dangerous thing for a young person to do, so try to gain back margins of safety as much as you can with a lot of training, and a safe car. I hope that your car search goes well !
I'd look for a private sale Japanese entry-level four cylinder model with a manual. Older higher-mileage civics and corollas come to mind. These will be the most reliable vehicles at that price point. Follow the "less is more" rule when shopping at these prices unless you have a healthy repair and maintenance budget.
JHZR2: I and most other drivers on the road won't be too willing to help her learn. If she rolled back into my Mustang with her poopie 4 banger stick shift, we would have 'issues'.
Of course we are assuming here. The OP needs to update us.
Of course we are assuming here. The OP needs to update us.
JHZR2
Staff member
You sure are right...
But IMO, bad driving ability due to lack of knowledge of physics and auto operation will hamper her driving ability and skills to be safe moreso than the chance of her not clutching properly to get started on a hill.
And, were you pulled up too close to her???
JMH
But IMO, bad driving ability due to lack of knowledge of physics and auto operation will hamper her driving ability and skills to be safe moreso than the chance of her not clutching properly to get started on a hill.
And, were you pulled up too close to her???
JMH
'90 or'91 BMW 3 series, the Bentley repair manual and a set of Sears tools. Enough of this sexist nonsense.
The old Japanese route of Honda's & Toyota's...
I sold(quickly) my 10 year old Civic for $2500 (225k miles in perfect condition except rusting badly at bumper connection to body) and my other 9 year old for $3000 (180k in need of timing belt, tires, brakes, weaker oem clutch).
Not exactly bargains and could have died at any moment. No thanks.
And you honestly think any similar domestic model would be in better shape at that age, mileage, and locale? I've watched very well maintained Cavaliers and Neons fall apart at less than half that mileage.
There are no free lunches at any price point. But some lunches taste better than others.
An American car without known service issues. Cheaper to fix. Midsize with enough mass to help protect her in that inevitable new driver mishap but not so big as to be a chore to drive and park.
I agree that the same vintage domestic small cars are typically junk boxes with the exception of the same vintage Ford Escort which tend to hold together well. However for the price of a Honda or Toyota you can purchase a Buick or equivalent for same entry point, larger car, less odometer mileage, relatively reliable and inexpensive to insure and repair.
I would heed the advice of a Corolla or Prizm. If you could find a 1994 Corolla, those are considered the most reliable year (No EGR valve to go bad along with a few other things like throttle opener)(I have one
). Definetally NOT expensive to repair and insanely easy to do routine stuff on your own (dead alternator? recently changed mine in under 20 minutes). Perhaps one of the, if not the most reliable vehicle ever made. If you want it to start, every time, it is your vehicle. Hold out and find a 1 or 2 owner private sale with maintenance records. Won't have to worry about speeding tickets either
Hi all, thanks for all the replies! My apologies for not getting back on this, as I've been out of town. As for the question of a stick shift, that probably won't be happening. Let's just say I know my step daughter pretty well. Nuff said?
I'm diligently looking at this point. I'm sticking with private owners. I've got about a month & a half to look, as she's out in CT visiting her father for the summer (don't ask why HE isn't helping). But you've all given me a lot of useful info for my search. I'll post here when I finally get something!
I'm diligently looking at this point. I'm sticking with private owners. I've got about a month & a half to look, as she's out in CT visiting her father for the summer (don't ask why HE isn't helping). But you've all given me a lot of useful info for my search. I'll post here when I finally get something!
I think his point was for the $2500 that you can get a 250k civic for, you can get a 100k taurus/lesabre etc for... which has more metal, has probably had an easier life, less stress on the more powerful powertrain, and possibly cheaper and less frequent maintenance/repairs too.
As far as cavaliers and neons falling apart, it's statistically possible with the target demo driving them as well as the design compromises that go into any lightweight cheap car.
About 39 months ago, give or take, I bought my 1994 Geo Prizm with 106K on the clock for $2500 from the original owner and a stack of maintenance and repair records.
I now have 187,7xx on the clock today and have spent a total of $11,388.55 to drive those miles, including the purchase price, tax, registration, insurance, fuel, maintenance and repairs.
That works out to $0.138/mile.
Of that figure:
Purchase 22.2%
Fuel 42.5%
Maintenance 21.3%
Insurance 9.4%
License and Tax 4.4%
So that indicates that it's cost me less than $2500 in maintenance and repairs over 80K miles.
The 1.6L 4A-FE engine doesn't have EGR, the 7A-FE (1.8L engine) does have the EGR.
I don't know if this continues to the 1997 model year when those two engines are last used, replaced by the current generation 1.8L Toyota powerplant.
I think if I were recommending an automatic Prizm/Corolla, I'd recommend one with the 1.8L engine as you get the 4 speed ATX instead of the 3 speed ATX mated with the 1.6L engine.
I now have 187,7xx on the clock today and have spent a total of $11,388.55 to drive those miles, including the purchase price, tax, registration, insurance, fuel, maintenance and repairs.
That works out to $0.138/mile.
Of that figure:
Purchase 22.2%
Fuel 42.5%
Maintenance 21.3%
Insurance 9.4%
License and Tax 4.4%
So that indicates that it's cost me less than $2500 in maintenance and repairs over 80K miles.
The 1.6L 4A-FE engine doesn't have EGR, the 7A-FE (1.8L engine) does have the EGR.
I don't know if this continues to the 1997 model year when those two engines are last used, replaced by the current generation 1.8L Toyota powerplant.
I think if I were recommending an automatic Prizm/Corolla, I'd recommend one with the 1.8L engine as you get the 4 speed ATX instead of the 3 speed ATX mated with the 1.6L engine.
13.8 cents a mile! Well done!
I figure my Titan costs me over $1 a mile to operate. I don't even want to get into the breakdown. Suffice it to say, although I love it, I am thinking of getting rid of it in 5 or 6 months when I should no longer be upside down in it.
I figure my Titan costs me over $1 a mile to operate. I don't even want to get into the breakdown. Suffice it to say, although I love it, I am thinking of getting rid of it in 5 or 6 months when I should no longer be upside down in it.
OK, we're about to look into some Prizms this week, ranging from '93-'96. What is this deal with the EGRs and is this something I should be concerned with?
I don't think there is any deal in particular, just more complexity. Something else to break.
Well, I think we've made the decision for her. We went to Cincinnati to look at a '95 Prizm LSi. It's got 160K, but the engine is every bit as quiet as my wife's '04 Corolla with 42K miles! Overall, I think it'll last her through college and get her to her first job and then subsequent car payment 5 or 6 years from now. I know with $2500-$3000 to spend, our options for a good car are going to be limited, so I just used my best judgement: Would I buy this for myself? For the money, I thought I would.
I found it to be a little less than peppy as my wife's Corolla, but I attribute that to having more miles on the engine. Plus, it could just need a tune-up, etc. Anyone know the HP rating for that year? It's got a set of Bridgestones that look like they have been on for less than 10k, so that's a plus. The paint is not too bad, some "highway chips" on the front, but nothing major...tan interior, pretty basic, but that's what we expected. I'll update you in 5 years!
I found it to be a little less than peppy as my wife's Corolla, but I attribute that to having more miles on the engine. Plus, it could just need a tune-up, etc. Anyone know the HP rating for that year? It's got a set of Bridgestones that look like they have been on for less than 10k, so that's a plus. The paint is not too bad, some "highway chips" on the front, but nothing major...tan interior, pretty basic, but that's what we expected. I'll update you in 5 years!
- Status
Similar threads
