1998 S-10 Soft Short Circuit / Electric Draw

Status
Not open for further replies.

JHZR2

Staff member
Joined
Dec 14, 2002
Messages
55,333
Location
New Jersey
My 1998 Chevrolet S 10 is more or less like new. It has 62,000 miles and has really needed nothing besides one steel heat shield wrapper (big hose clamp) for the muffler. It doesn't get a lot of use and so it sits quite a bit. Over the last six months or so I've been keeping the battery on a float charger. Despite this, when disconnected the battery seems to drop voltage quite a bit one sitting. Generally when sitting without the charger attached, it would sit around 12.3-12.4V, which is too low.

I finally got around to diagnosing it a little bit tonight and found that the draw on the battery is quite high. The draw is around 0.24 A. I found 0.128 A of draw on interior fuse eight which is labeled as courtesy lamps. Isolating that circuit took the draw on the 50 amp main underhood fuse down to 0.013 A which seems acceptable given that it feeds all of the interior operations. The issue is that I still seem to have about 0.111 A of load even when the entire interior 50 amp fuse is disconnected.

I'm not really familiar with what typical draw is on highly electric vehicles; my 1991 BMW draws about 0.035 A, and my Mercedes draw next to nothing. I've not run load tests on any newer cars that have many more electric control modules.

So, what should the static load on a late model S-10 turned off be? I assume that 0.1 A is too high for typical constant load when turned off. Are there any typical places where short-circuits or draw typically occur on S-10 models? I pulled most of the fuses that were under hood and was not able to isolate the rest of the draw. It started raining so I didn't get to all, but the rest were things like o2 sensor heaters and the horn - stuff that works.

So any recommendations what/how to attack next?

Also the interior fuse 8, any thoughts on that? All lights work, but when I connect it, I hear a relay click that I don't know what it does. Would a stuck on relay in and of itself cause a draw?

Thanks!
 
I just noticed that when I start the truck, the voltage takes a long time to raise to ~14V. Driving along normally with headlights and air conditioner on the alternator puts out 14 V solid. It's just the latency when I turn on the truck, that takes a while for the voltage to raise up - probably four seconds or so. Cranking to start the truck the battery voltage doesn't drop below 10 V so I imagine it is okay. I do not have an alternator overcharging warning light. The battery is new.

Does this indicate anything?
 
Just thinking out loud, I know GM has had lots of problems with their radios causing a parasitic draw. It could worth looking into.

As for what's acceptable, I believe that 25 milliamps or lower is what you're looking for in draw.
 
good point. I got most of it on internal fuse #8, which is relays and such for the inside courtesy lights... But radio is worth a check.

Thing is, when I pull main (maxi)fuse #1, for all internal electrics (a 50A fuse), this would kill the radio... Yet I still have over 0.1A!
 
I don't have any diagrams handy. Does pulling fuse#1 kill both feeds to the radio or just one of the two?

For a GM of that time period I look for 38 milliamps or less after a 20 minute settle. Up to 60 is Cadillac range, and anything over 60 is an improper draw.
 
Just for laughs disconnect the battery then remove the alternator + cable and insulate it so it cant touch anything, Reconnect the main battery cable and check the draw.

I maybe way out in left field with this thought but i;m wondering about a bad diode in the diode trio.
Like i say just a passing thought i need to look at a schematic tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Just for laughs disconnect the battery then remove the alternator + cable and insulate it so it cant touch anything, Reconnect the main battery cable and check the draw.

I maybe way out in left field with this thought but i;m wondering about a bad diode in the diode trio.
Like i say just a passing thought i need to look at a schematic tomorrow.


I agree with the diode diagnostic step
 
As far as the remaining parasitic drain, I think you're on the right track already. I'm confident you'll narrow it down with another session of fuse-pulling after the rain subsides.

On the courtesy fuse, looking at the diagram, there doesn't appear to be a diode in this truck's dome lamp circuit, as some have said. It's mildly complicated, with a couple relays. My quick glance at the diagram makes me think a relay stuck on would cause some lamps to be on. The BCM is worth checking, and if this is a 4WD vehicle, the transfer case controller is on the same circuit.

PM sent.
 
I had a 99 S10 Blazer. Had many many electrical issues. Dealer never could find the culprit after many trips to the shop. Mine even went so far as to cut off the headlights while driving at night. The regional service mgr OK'ed warranty extension. Then one day smoke poured from inside the driver door. When I got it to the dealer a few minutes later you could see the ah-ha moment on the face of the technician. Turns out the entire wiring harness inside the driver door was faulty and shorting out. Replaced the wiring harness. No more issues.
 
I have several Bulletins and Offical GM procedures for your vehicle to test for Battery Electrical Drain/Parasitic Load. I can email them to you if you PM me an email address. The class 2 modules were mentioned in that the do draw more power (even when asleep) than what you have been accustomed to with older model cars that werer not as computer equipped.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom